240 KL racing header

Hello. I've installed the KL racing header and I have some issues. The first issue seems easy, but I was wondering if other people ran into this. The welds on the head flange interfere with the washers. Particularly the second nut from the back (bottom nut on the furthest rearward cylinder. I was planning on using a dremel to flatten out the spot.


The main issue I'm having is that where the header comes underneath the car, it aims the exit too close to the passenger side of the transmission crossmemeber. I attached some pictures to show what I'm talking about.



https://i.imgur.com/CZeVW3B.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/FjQPgvh.jpg


I've rigged up the "catback" system temporarily before I take it to a shop to have them weld on a flange which is why you see the janky pipe work. It doesn't look as bad once I attached the exhaust. Before that, the header was aimed pretty much at the side of the crossmember and looked like it would be touching. I was trying to see if I could "bend" the pipe by hand to center it in the little tunnel, but I was afraid of using too much force. Has anyone run into this issue? Is there some easy fix I'm not thinking of? The only things I could think of were applying heat near the front of the tubes and tweaking them by hand. The other was having a shop cut a notch in the side of the tubes, aiming the pipe better, then welding the pipe shut again.

I forgot to mention: I have a volvo motor mount on the left, and a volvo heavy duty motor mount (for a diesel?) on the right. I was wondering if that was maybe tilting the engine and pushing the header outlet towards the right, but it looks like the engine is still sitting flat.

Is this an NA or turbo header?

It's an NA header

Alright yes, I had the exact same problem you describe with the KL NA 421 header not fitting my 240 chassis without some significant modification. Normal M46 crossmember location. The header hit the crossmember and I had to have it modified to fit my car. (They re-bent the last bends where the “2” part of the header bends before the final “1” join to make it fit.)

I didn’t report it here, as the fitment was so off that I just assumed they sent me a header for a 7/9 and went with it because returning it seemed too much of a hassle.

This was almost 2 years ago. Now, the Massachusetts climate took its toll on it. It is now very rusty and probably won’t make it to 2 years old. The rest of my “aluminized” exhaust has no non-surface rust at all, and the back portion is going on 4 years old. I think the metal used is just not great. Just a warning

Fun stuff! Ok so I won't feel so bad hacking this thing. Hopefully the Texas climate will be a little nicer to it :^)

Might be worth having the header Jet-Hot coated or painted with a thick header paint. Then wrap it with exhaust heat-wrap. Might help it last longer.

Yeah I was planning on spraying a new coating on it as the original coating has chips and I'm definitely going to wrap it. Heat management is a big goal of mine with this car.

I’m running the kl header on a 740 16v and I have similar issues. I use the bmw m8x1.25 exhaust nuts. They have a 12mm hex. As far as the way the exhaust exists, I had my friend that does exhaust fix that for me

I must have gotten lucky. No issues with the KLR 16v header in a 240.