- Joined
- May 11, 2007
- Location
- Niketown, OR
First gear shudder is entirely due to your driveline angles being off, and is exacerbated by soft motor and carrier bearing mounts.
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First gear shudder is entirely due to your driveline angles being off, and is exacerbated by soft motor and carrier bearing mounts.
First gear shudder is entirely due to your driveline angles being off, and is exacerbated by soft motor and carrier bearing mounts.
I would definitely do the rear brakes hoses too and then proceed to bleed the brakes 3-4 times.
I have no idea how to finagle this doohickey.
MS2 v3.0 set up for LH2.4 use. Plan is to figure out how to set it up for 2.2 and make a plug and play harness so I can drive with the stock ecus while I learn how to megasquirt. I don't need a proper TPS do I?
Are you running speed density? IAT?
If you're going to spend the time to convert, you may as well spend the $50 on the Yoshifab components to get a real TPS.
I drove around on MS a couple times. I got the idle AFRs pretty good, but it seems to be misfiring at idle. Dunno what's up with that. Also I gotta figure out how to get the IAC to work with this thing, not having that is really annoying. I can't find a whole lotta info on getting a 3 wire IAC to work. I gave it an intake temp sensor and wideband signal, still need IAC, knock, and MAF. My thinking is that MAF will get me good throttle response without a TPS.
Needs some real tuning work too. Cold starts are awful and it runs way too rich in boost. I guesstimated the spark table and the AFR table, then I drove for a little bit with autotune running which helped a lot.
Also for some reason spark cut quit working.. It was the first thing I played with when I got it running, but now when I turn it on nothing happens.
I tried JB welding the IAT bung at first. Didn't work.
I wouldn't spend too much time chasing your tail on the knock sensor.