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EV turbobrick - the turbobrick way?

That is truly thought-provoking. Over the last 100 years we have gotten used to driving according to inherent ICE behaviors. EV has some different inherent behaviors and maybe we can do better to change our expectations/driving methods to match those behaviors and/or capabilities
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Doesn't the BMW i3 implement more of a one-pedal driving experience by executing regen braking on accel pedal liftoff? And they market it as a more relaxing driving experience?

Sorry for the derail; back to the scheduled program... :)

Leaf, e-Golf, 500e, tesla everything, they all offer some level of "engine" braking on off throttle.

The e-Golf has 3 modes for regen braking depending on how hard you want it to pull you down. With it in max regen mode, I can let off the throttle on a 300 ft long off ramp and go from 75 to less than 5 by the time I hit the stop sign. On a hill, I can let off 3-5 car lengths from 25 and be stopped before the cross walk.
 
We had a Linde rental diesel forklift, it actually had a VW turbo diesel, and aCVT transmission that would engine brake very quickly to a complete stop, I don't think I ever used the brake pedal.
 
It also activates the brake lights when you let off. Safety.

Is there a certain deceleration threshold in which it activates the brake lights other than just letting off the pedal? I have zero experience with single pedal driving, but it is my understanding they can stop pretty quick. Seems like at some rate of deceleration you'd want the brake lights to come on to indicate the vehicle is slowing at a rate that's greater than a coast.
 
:rofl:

$14.99 will get you a Harbor Frieght angle grinder to molest the springs on your sub $500 Volvo and that's about it.


Tell me about it. Wait till he wants a good safe charger for it...​

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Look what his budget will buy him at thunderstruck EV. Now why would a real engineer buy this for 2500 dollars? No batteries. No charger and no connection to his transmission and only 32 kw. :sarcasticclap: Look at the controller . It is a 1236 curtis that is better than sevcon but the drive is no more powerful than the drive he can build with the exact schematics posted for probably under 200 dollars. What will he do the 1/4 in with this? Not to mention if its so advanced why do I have a motor that weighs only 448 grams and a drive 200 grams that can do this at >95% efficiency this cant and certainly weighs more than slightly less than 1 and a half pounds if you dont know what 648 grams is....

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Here are the voltage and amperage numbers for his controller in his 2500.00 package​

Now if he cant follow a build thread on the drive thats already shown to run great I showed him that will do these numbers he won't graduate! If he did and couldn't the degree is worthless.... would you hire such a person that would be tasked to design so much more? You see that one fet in the circuit I showed can carry 195 amperes at over 70 volts. To upgrade this 2500.00 GO KART PACKAGE to a 96 volt system he has to add 1095.00 so now he's at 3500.00 for really nothing. Why not buy a warp 9 for 2500.00 bolt it to his m46 or whatever he has and build a brushed controller for it. If he doesn't know anything about how to safely put the car together it wont matter if it is diy or off the shelf. Shorting the batteries will be dangerous in any situation. You test drives inside a safety cell which he also builds himself for next to nothing and you see the IC has safety features implemented and meets automotive standards. Charging the vehicle with the right topology will also be key to his safety. He cannot do much with an EV without one of them. That ups the price :)

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This logic u see here in its entirety has essentially zero to do with the voltage and current of the bridge it can drive in the first place. Gross overcite comes from someone that does not know anything about inverter design. Anyone that thinks that is NASA really should not waste alot of time talking here.... The drive already runs and is tested. The one posted is shunted for 120 amperes and thats the limit he set buy his board design and shunts he selected. The fets can do more and the water cooled chassis was suggested pages ago....

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If you are scared to build it all it truly means you're not at this so be quiet then. Thats sad when its a build thread with working drive including a bom and schematics just like any build article here members have followed.

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Spend the 3500 for a nice scooter package instead. Ill stick with my suggestion on the warp 9. There has been alot of nonsense posted here. Who deosn't know if the are an electrical genius that its much less danger dealing with a full DC system and much less daunting to build a motor drive for a series wound brushed motor. The IC will do either. Major malfunctions here because it morphed from hobbling JY pieces together to full on OEM ev partnered with Cascadia at over 30,000.00 USD before a drive train, batteries, or charger has been implemented.
If he wants to spend 3500.00 dollars for the alibaba EV systems shown @ 32Kw be my guest I know immediately who has more fun.
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He could also just buy the damn 200 volt 300 amp dc bridge for and control it with simple Arduino commands.

True heavy load copper track can handle very high peak currents and 200A continuous current.
Isolated RS232/485 connection with full access of controll registers and much more usefull adjustable parameters.
Advanced PCB layout technik.
High speed 32bit Cortex processor.
Connection with high current M6 screws.
Built with 3.4mOhm ultra low resistance MOSFETs
Adjustable 4 operation modes: 1. normal potentiometer 2. magnetic hall throttle (with 0.5-4,5V output) 3. direct PWM input (0-95%) 4. RC PWM input 1,5ms +/-1ms
2 quadrant operation (drive CW and regenerative brake CW)
Low warming and capable to accept heatsink.
20kHz switching frequency
Duty cycle: 0-97%
Universal 0-5V speed controller input. You don't have to use the potentiometer to controll the speed. You can use PLC
output or any analog signal or PWM signap from uPC or RC receiver PWM signal.
Regenerative braking (you can brake the motor and get back all the kinetic energy into the battery)
For the highest safety the regenerative braking never substitutes the ordinary brake!
Adjustable ramp speed. 0-20sec. (acceleration limit)
Normal current continuous limit is adjustable between 0-200A
Switchable peak current ON or normal strict current limit
Peak current 300A for 5 seconds.
Adjustable regenerative current.
Universal supply voltage between 22-200V DC.
Dimensions: 220 x 135 x 50 mm
Note: For the maximum power you have to add extra heatsink to the aluminium block. The aluminium block is predilled with M4 holes.
900g

Space age for the goof troop @ an amazing $320.00 .....:roll:

So far he's at 60Kw for 2,800.00. A warp 9 can be overvolted and overamped with modified brushes in 10 sec runs to put out over 500 hp up in the thousand ampere range. He says efficiency points don't matter. He should be able to see what a couple in inefficiency does here, but he doesn't care about nearly 20 which puts him around 80% from 100. About 12,000 watts of doesn't really matter to be dissipated at those performance levels... I see all the genius around the statements that are made here from the on start that the "turbobricks way" is the foolish I don't know what Im talking about way.​
 
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Is there a certain deceleration threshold in which it activates the brake lights other than just letting off the pedal? I have zero experience with single pedal driving, but it is my understanding they can stop pretty quick. Seems like at some rate of deceleration you'd want the brake lights to come on to indicate the vehicle is slowing at a rate that's greater than a coast.

The e-golf has a % meter and at 20% or more in the regen area the brake lights kick on. Definitely not a one pedal car, but feels like a high compression na downshift. Won?t pull you all the way to a stop unless you?re on a hill. The Tesla model s is much more aggressive if you set it that way.
 
With the MC33035 a simple MCU operated NPN transistor on pin 23 can be used to further tailor the e brake aggression . If its not pulled down its in coast mode which allows traditional disk brakes be used.
 
What will he do the 1/4 in with this? Not to mention if its so advanced why do I have a motor that weighs only 448 grams and a drive 200 grams that can do this at >95% efficiency this cant and certainly weighs more than slightly less than 1 and a half pounds if you dont know what 648 grams is....

First off, I wasn’t suggesting just to use that one ME1507 to power a vehicle. Use it as a hybrid setup to have some fun. They offer a water cooled version of that exact motor, it can be run at near double the power levels.
Also, this motor makes a ton of torque for the current going through it. It’s conservatively rated from the factory.

The reason that you can make the same power with a 448g motor is Duty Cycle. Or, you’re direct cooling it, and you’ve failed to mention that. And it would have to be a crazy amount of cooling.

The ME1507 is rated at 37kw for at least 2-min with no air cooling (this is very conservative, we have seen almost 10min at full load with no airflow). Add a small 6-8” fan and the duty cycle becomes almost 100% at 32kW.

Your little motor will not provide that amount of power for more than a few seconds without failing.
 
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Thats incorrect I can make the power because my machine and inverter is more power and torque dense than this with a motor with better fill more poles much lower resistance and much higher stall torque . Zero to do with duty cycle sir. If he can only get 35kw for 2500.00 go ahead and share the prices of what you consider EV? :) Then it becomes clear budget again. My motor can fry this curtis which has no low pass filtering capability probably no synchronous rectification of Proprietary purpose made MLCC on the dc bus. Even my capacitors are "Smart" while this thing only sports basic electrolytics. Its also can process high pole count motor at over 100,000 rpm. You ever seen an 14 pole extrenal motor machine explode for the centripetal force. After many pages you dont seem to understand what 3000.00 can actually buy him. Or that machine wound devices have limits hand don't when filling a bobbin. This stuff shown is definitely marginally winded motors by chinese ladies for low pay.

you dont know that Eff= the square of idle current divided by stall current. Windings have quite a bit to do with efficiency in a BLDC machine.

Regards
Hubert
 
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First off, I wasn?t suggesting just to use that one ME1507 to power a vehicle. Use it as a hybrid setup to have some fun. They offer a water cooled version of that exact motor, it can be run at near double the power levels.
Also, this motor makes a ton of torque for the current going through it. It?s conservatively rated from the factory.

The reason that you can make the same power with a 448g motor is Duty Cycle.

The ME1507 is rated at 37kw for at least 2-min with no air cooling (this is very conservative, we have seen almost 10min at full load with no airflow). Add a small 6-8? fan and the duty cycle becomes almost 100% at 32kW.

Your little motor will not provide that amount of power for more than a few seconds without failing.

Have you ever tried oil cooling one? That'd be a fun little project. Potentially increase the time at peak load a bit. ATF is a great cooling media, the only issue is oil shear at the rotor/stator. So dry sump, forced oil cooling and keep them windings cool.
 
Yes and the cryogenic reactions in a 3 sec duration pulls me to -29 degrees Celsius. Ferro fluid in the gap increases the thermal conductivity 4 times over a standard air gap to dissipate the heat from the center of the motor out to its air cooled fins. This is proven already. It also improves static torque production, the magnetic circuit, rotor centricity in the stator, and directs stray or leakage losses. You been provide that already in the thread you had closed that is now nearing 13,000 views. Thats too high tech for here but liquid and fan cooling is interesting now.... Water or mineral spirits or kerosene cooling cools indiscriminately and will never reach the lows of cryogenic reaction or improve the magnetic circuit while ferro fluid seeks specifically the hots spots first and is self pumping ..... I think its way more interesting the rocket science.
 
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Thats incorrect I can make the power because my machine and inverter is more power and torque dense than this with a motor with better fill more poles much lower resistance and much higher stall torque . Zero to do with duty cycle sir. If he can only get 35kw for 2500.00 go ahead and share the prices of what you consider EV? :) Then it becomes clear budget again. My motor can fry this curtis which has no low pass filtering capability probably no synchronous rectification of Proprietary purpose made MLCC on the dc bus. Even my capacitors are "Smart" while this thing only sports basic electrolytics. Its also can process high pole count motor at over 100,000 rpm. You ever seen an 14 pole extrenal motor machine explode for the centripetal force. After many pages you dont seem to understand what 3000.00 can actually buy him. Or that machine wound devices have limits hand don't when filling a bobbin. This stuff shown is definitely marginally winded motors by chinese ladies for low pay.

you dont know that Eff= the square of idle current divided by stall current. Windings have quite a bit to do with efficiency in a BLDC machine.

Regards
Hubert

Hubert, how long can your motor produce 32kW of power?
 
Yes and the cryogenic reactions in a 3 sec duration pulls me to -29 degrees Celsius. Ferro fluid in the gap increases the thermal conductivity 4 times over a standard air gap to dissipate the heat from the center of the motor out to its air cooled fins. This is proven already. It also improves static torque production, the magnetic circuit, rotor centricity in the stator, and directs stray or leakage losses. You been provide that already in the thread you had closed that is now nearing 13,000 views. Thats too high tech for here but liquid and fan cooling is interesting now.... Water or mineral spirits or kerosene cooling cools indiscriminately and will never reach the lows of cryogenic reaction or improve the magnetic circuit while ferro fluid seeks specifically the hots spots first and is self pumping ..... I think its way more interesting the rocket science.

Ok, so we?re all supposed to build cryogenically cooked e-motors with ferrofluid inside them? And then use them in a brick?
:wtf::wtf::wtf:
 
My motor that does this is a piece rewound china iron that cost me 50 dollars. So quite naturally If I build a motor this size at 50 times the cost certainly much longer than 2 min which is all the curtis drive for it is rated for.... at that level. :lol: The things a piece of junk bro. hes doing nothing impressive at 30kw. My brushless models can this peak this power and will beat it in any quarter mile race. With my cooling I can surpass anything that alibaba does. How long can the motor form Alibaba run at 30,000 rpm? So this huge thing is pathetic in comparison with much less torque density and power density.


You said my motor only can make this power because of duty cycle and thats totally incorrect. You haven't a clue what my carrier frequency is timing or anything else.
 
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Ok, so we’re all supposed to build cryogenically cooked e-motors with ferrofluid inside them? And then use them in a brick?
:wtf::wtf::wtf:

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I mean kids are buying the ferro fluid and putting it in their own EV bikes. Are they superior thinkers that the tb users here? Yeah why not they can buy a nitrous express INTERCOOLER and create the cryogenic in the ebrick as easily as installing a compressed co2 or Nos canister yes. Very easily. All of it's cheaper and easier that dragging a full lexus drive train into their wife limited garage space.

Remember cooling isnt so much of a concern anyway if he cared about 20 points of efficiency.... these are all turbobricks bricks way issue :lol: and that still doesn't address my inverter that has the highest power density on market and can run at that level all day.

How much more does it need to be dumbed down for a build that was supposed to be JY bits and pieces​
 
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