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EV turbobrick - the turbobrick way?

Just like an ac genius but only the turbobrick way is proud to make power without one....LOL and still poor ass external case cooling with oil is antiquated bro. Again what a strawman argument because if he had a compressor why would he be out every 10 runs spending 40 bucks....

Another twist of your brain. And how much fun is a fast car in the middle of august with no ac in NC? U have to be on some good sht.

And Im not leaving because I don't wear panties and nothing is twisted but the knowledge base here. Im leaving right now because its nothing to learn with this old antiquated and general ass motor lessons you can hardly give me from an assemblers perch.

Wasted system = $$$ burnt every time it’s used.

Recirculating system = energy wasted every time it’s used.

Oil cooled = integrated pump, low friction positive displacement pump driven by the motor increasing total flow based on rpm, air to oil heat exchanger and depending on placement, no fan required to maintain system temps at small delta to ambient. Or, since your controller should be liquid cooled, run the outlet to a liquid to oil exchanger then out to your radiator. Low losses, low maintenance, good cooling for minimal effort.

My lady loves eastern Oregon desert drives in the 122 and the Austin Healey. Wing windows are fantastic things. The 122 points all the air right at your balls too.
 
I think you're over estimate the power used in the pumping system for cooling. Should really only be 200-500W.
Edit: If you're using a e-pump.

Mechanically coupled pumps are always a compromise.
Take a PS pump for instance: They're designed around a flow rate and pressure at a specific RPM, we then spin them 4x that and just wastes power.

A good e-PS setup will consume about 300w for most normal driving when on, and upwards of 2kW peak (but not for more than a second or two)
 
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I think you're over estimate the power used in the pumping system for cooling. Should really only be 200-500W.
Edit: If you're using a e-pump.

Mechanically coupled pumps are always a compromise.
Take a PS pump for instance: They're designed around a flow rate and pressure at a specific RPM, we then spin them 4x that and just wastes power.

A good e-PS setup will consume about 300w for most normal driving when on, and upwards of 2kW peak (but not for more than a second or two)

I was thinking his phase change pump. But yeah, looking around, there are some 12v pumps that are pretty dang good. Still in the 500w area. But youre going need all that power for the losses of that warp9 :rofl:
 
It wouldn't matter anyway Ronald since ferrofluid pumps by the curie effect. And Isn't it something then that ferrofluid is iron particles suspended in oil with a surfactant already and needs no pump. Too bad CDwoodson doesn't know that it was developed by Nasa's Steve Papel to pump rocket fuel passively.

CD is a real expert I tell ya.... just read the last post.... No he will need the 500 watts with that marginal Chinese junk for 3500.00 that only brings 32Kw!!!

You sound silly because anyone here that seen a warp 9 at the tracks is aware of what it can do and its never happening with a 32kw scooter package for 3500.00. You should just lift your dress all the way up.
 
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Yeah, most of those pumps are powered by 4-cyl turbo diesels. Bonus, you can also charge your batteries with it!
 
th


OTWTTB!
laughing4.gif


I have no idea why this nonsense keeps running with mass overcite in clear view and mines locked unless something is going to actually be built here the turbobricks way...."with CHEAP Chinese parts..."


 
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I have no idea why this nonsense keeps running with mass overcite in clear view and mines locked unless something is going to actually be built here the turbobricks way...."with CHEAP Chinese parts..."


[/CENTER]

Because that is literally what the original post was asking! Since you failed at reading comprehension, I'll quote the VERY FIRST LINE OF THIS WHOLE THREAD.

swedbrick said:
Since I'm still kind of stoked on the idea of building a hybrid/full EV turbobrick, let's have a discussion on how to do it with cheap junkyard/Chinese parts.
 
Switching directions here, what are the possibilities for adding an e-alternator for better acceleration and better MPG? Let's assume that just the alternator is replaced, along with a separate battery pack (i.e. the car would still be driveable for a short distance if the DIY install failed).

How much power can be transmitted through a toothed timing/alternator belt in a DIY installation? And how big of a battery pack would this take?

How the heck do you control this thing? How does it know when to do max acceleration, light assist (better mpg), and battery recharge? I can imagine adding a standalone e-alternator controller box, with a combo e-throttle + cable pedal, but it sure seems like it would need to tie into the main engine ECU too. If so, LH2.4 would be unusable, but MegaSquirt might?

Finally, are there any good salvage yard options for this sort of e-alternator and controller?
 
Because that is literally what the original post was asking! Since you failed at reading comprehension, I'll quote the VERY FIRST LINE OF THIS WHOLE THREAD.


The problem is people like you not realizing I took the line from there and that tin hat know how like yours is severely lacking about EV design or electric motors or you'd never think its possible...:party:

Cheap Chinese over budget parts..... sounds like it should be an amazing build that will manifest from this oceans floor

I Cannot wait to see this Major Fail!​
 
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Switching directions here, what are the possibilities for adding an e-alternator for better acceleration and better MPG? Let's assume that just the alternator is replaced, along with a separate battery pack (i.e. the car would still be driveable for a short distance if the DIY install failed).

How much power can be transmitted through a toothed timing/alternator belt in a DIY installation? And how big of a battery pack would this take?

How the heck do you control this thing? How does it know when to do max acceleration, light assist (better mpg), and battery recharge? I can imagine adding a standalone e-alternator controller box, with a combo e-throttle + cable pedal, but it sure seems like it would need to tie into the main engine ECU too. If so, LH2.4 would be unusable, but MegaSquirt might?

Finally, are there any good salvage yard options for this sort of e-alternator and controller?

https://www.enginelabs.com/news/sema-2016-e-charger-bolt-on-hybrid-system-draws-crowds/

Small 30-50 horse motor would be cool, and net you some mpgs. Pack size would need to be big. Prius hybrid pack would be a good start, and run a grand or so. Chevy volt modules would be nice to depending on level of design and system voltage.

Controller would be where you?d expect to spend money depending on motor type. I?d start there. Find a controller that has user defined regen areas, and you?re not far from it. The hardest part will be tuning regen/power and coast zones. It would be great if the car is running a stand alone to start, not that it can?t be done with a stock ecu, but being able to set up something like table switching when e-powered during cruise could come in handy for pulling mpg gains. Or using a table to control cruise, power, and coast zones.

Not sure what you can find in the yards, but the stop/start mgu from an ecoboost f150 has the power, wether or not you can adapt and control it would be the problem.

Culberro?s idea with that little 32kw motor would be a great candidate. Has all of what?s needed except the pack. And from what I understand, user defined throttle/braking control. So looking at your megasquirt features, look at accel enrichment, and what can you control with it. My plan for hybrid control is looking at messages over the CAN bus, so far I?ve gotten speed density messages sorted, and moving to accel enrichment, and then looking at how to fake overrun fuel cut.
 


The problem is people like you not realizing I took the line from there and that tin hat know how like yours is severely lacking about EV design or electric motors or you'd never think its possible...:party:

Cheap Chinese over budget parts..... sounds like it should be an amazing build that will manifest from this oceans floor

I Cannot wait to see this Major Fail!​

Come back when you can form a coherent thought. This post reads like russian click bait.
 
Lacrosse and Sierras had E-Assist.

That?s appears to be a great little package. Hairpin wound pmac motor. Looks like they can be had for pretty inexpensive. And I?d be willing to bet that with the right pack and controller, it?d pack more punch than you might think.
 
That?s appears to be a great little package. Hairpin wound pmac motor. Looks like they can be had for pretty inexpensive. And I?d be willing to bet that with the right pack and controller, it?d pack more punch than you might think.

What about the electric motor sandwiched between the Honda Insight's engine and transmission?
 
That e-assist is pretty neat, basically another start stop system right? Big imported trucks are becoming more common around here so maybe one can be found at a scrapyard. Most constructors like them for their higher towing rating compared to the typical white vans

So listing our requirements, available in junkyards, alternator type system, hacked already for convenience, 15-30hp. Battery pack can be scaled according to need and system, a regen charging system being preferred.

Edit: Sounds like the Curtis system with a bracket fits the bill basically
 
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That e-assist is pretty neat, basically another start stop system right? Big imported trucks are becoming more common around here so maybe one can be found at a scrapyard. Most constructors like them for their higher towing rating compared to the typical white vans

So listing our requirements, available in junkyards, alternator type system, hacked already for convenience, 15-30hp. Battery pack can be scaled according to need and system, a regen charging system being preferred.

Edit: Sounds like the Curtis system with a bracket fits the bill basically

I feel like it would. I don?t see much reason why it wouldn?t. Pack size would determine power output, and would correspond to percent increase in mpg. Larger pack, and possibly higher voltages would relate to higher increases in mpg.
 
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