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1971 142 Turbo v2.0

I don't unwrap the tape. Keeps the fray contained and doesnt let any braiding double up on itself. I havent had a problem with SS or Nylon braided hose, -3 to -16 using the same method. When I get into the 10-16 I usually have the backing out problem unless I chamfer the inside of the hose slightly for a good lead in. Might be worth a try. with an exacto knife or my fav, the step bit. You just need a little bit of help getting the hose started.
 
cwdodson88, thanks for the tips on the AN fittings. It made things a lot simpler. I ended up applying a bunch of your advice and using a very sharp drill bit (held in a tap handle) to take off about 0.010 on diameter from the ID of the hose right where it coke bottles in at the ferrule inlet. Even after that it was a real effort and feels very solid. If it leaks, at least I have them all sized and clocked for the hydraulic shop to do it up proper. Or to order a variety of -4 hose and see which one goes in better.

Oil feed goes back to the banjo fitting on the block, coolant feed to the heater outlet on the head, and coolant return directly to the water pump. There's a deceptive amount of space between the exhaust manifold and the inboard side hose probably at least an inch.

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Around the left side of the block at the coolant outlet. Looks tight, but, doesn't rest on anything and is restrained by a p-clip on the right side of the block. This line need one more tie down around the banjo fitting but that's not really accessible with the turbo in place. I need to decide if I want to use another hose separator or put a second p-clip in under the manifold. I worry that's a bit of a hot spot for the clip.

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Honestly, the way this car is driven, sporadically at best; not at all in the last 10yrs, I probably should have skipped the coolant lines and just made my life simpler. Amusingly, this is my simple solution to dealing with my cracked heater valve assemble. During round 1, it was very very late at night and I was adding coolant and adding coolant and adding yet more. Eventually it dawned on me that I had added a looooot of coolant and the radiator hadn't filled up that far. Nothing under the car and no visible leaks in the engine bay. I heard this very faint dripping noise and discovered a very small puddle of coolant in front of the rear wheel. When I opened the drivers door I discovered all my missing coolant forming a small lake in the driver footwell. Luckily the interior was out but a few choice words were used.
 
Work on the exhaust is wrapping up with some more pictures coming soon. Ended up being a 3" turbo back with all new pipe, muffler, and hangers interfaced to all new body pickups. A crap ton of work.

Before:
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After:
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I'm not too proud to say that my wallet does a better job welding than I do. This is all in mild steel and I'm torn between: exhaust wrap, high temp paint, or leaving it as is. I have some "flat sliver" VHT on it's way. All things considered I'm pretty pleased with the pie-cuts unwinding the flat flange. The narrow bits on the backside are very narrow.

Amusingly, with the welds done and with the resultant less flex the flange interferes with the bottom housing stud by around 0.025". It's agonizingly close to clearing but gets trapped between the turbine housing and the firewall. I suspect that stud will get a little trim before it all goes in for the last time as those are plenty long.
 
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Before: 2.25" diameter, conical output, and more than enough band clamps.

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After: 3" diameter, flat flange downpipe, and welded with flanges. The welds, hanger rods, and flanges get a little high heat paint to slow it rusting.

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A set of hangers and insulators for the bottom of the car. A surprising amount of work to get it together from scratch.

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Tear drop exhaust exit for fun.
 
Trying to resurrect the Optima Redtop that's been in the trunk, disconnected, for a decade. Trickle charger has gotten it to ~9.5V after about 48hrs. I'll be curious to see if it'll handle any kind of load. Those batteries have gotten obscenely expensive.

Next step is to add fuel, jumper the pump, and see if there are any leaks. The injectors were cleaned and balanced in...(checks gmail)...November 2012.
 
Trying to resurrect the Optima Redtop that's been in the trunk, disconnected, for a decade. Trickle charger has gotten it to ~9.5V after about 48hrs. I'll be curious to see if it'll handle any kind of load. Those batteries have gotten obscenely expensive.

Next step is to add fuel, jumper the pump, and see if there are any leaks. The injectors were cleaned and balanced in...(checks gmail)...November 2012.

I have found that some chargers dont like charging a battery that is below 10v. Sometimes if you trick your charger, by connecting a "good" battery in parallel with some jumper cables, it'll take the full charge. My charger has a cycle recondition, where it discharges to 11v then charges to 14, through 3 discharge cycles. That with the jumper method has brought back a few long ded batteries.
 
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Haven't seen things this back together for a very long time. It ran (surprisingly smoothly) on a squirt of brake clean into the intake manifold before I ran out of time on Sunday. More reassembly over the next couple of days and continue towards a methodical startup.

To that end:
  • coolant: filled and pressurized to 15psi. The block off plate for the back of the water pump worked and all the hoses worked as expected after a few worm clamps got tweaked a little tighter.
  • oil: changed the oil (10yrs, 500m interval!) and spun the engine to build up pressure. All the 45* angle ORB fittings worked but a face seal on the Amazon thermostat/filter housing weeped at 60PSI. I was able to get just a little more torque on the fitting, but, I'll need to keep an eye on it and see where that lands.
  • fuel: jumpered the pump and charged the system to 43PSI. No fitting leaks and no drips from the injectors. Next I'll see if the injectors still actuate.

I think the last time I did this I just bolted it all together and hit the starter. There's some saying I've heard someplace about fools rushing in...

Nursing the battery back to life failed so new battery too. Wiring tidy will need to happen sooner than later but, for now, the emphasis is on running.
 
Coming along!

I have one thing to mention that is going to give you a headache... I don't see a brace for your B21F intake manifold. You absolutely want one on there! Over time the manifold will likely crack and break near the runners like we've experienced recently on the General Leif. Granted, our usage is a bit different, we have an elbow with a relocated throttle body that is adding stress and we are likely sitting at 6000rpm+ for much longer periods of time than you will be, but it's worth mentioning.

It doesn't look like you'll be able to use the factory B21F piece as it goes from two of the factory engine mount bolts and about straight up to the intake manifold.
 

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Interesting on the brace - I very vaguely remember that from pulling the manifold from the junkyard way back when. If it misses the intercooler pipe it would still need to deal with the engine mount that doesn't really look too standard anymore.

I made a note on the whiteboard to-do list to circle back to that. Should be straight forward to put a plate on the intake manifold, find a spot to tie to on the block, and then connect the two with some tube.
 
Yes, we thought so as well, until we started breaking the braces we used, and/or the hardware we used. Your setup is a little more friendly than ours though with regards to clearance right under the manifold. Make sure you tie into the two bolt holes that the standard one would, and make it beefy like the original as well.
 
On the brace - looking at that picture that's a pretty well thought out load path. They've set it up so that the welds are in compression, the folded piece with the tube driving right through the boxed section, and then they did it in 1/8". I suspect I'll try to use the holes just above and two the left of the existing mounts and do something clever to keep everything similar to that. A tricky cantilever.
 
Woot! It runs!

Got everything put together, turned the key, and off it went. Got it up to temperature without any leaks or other problems, all the extra oils and brake clean cooked off the exhaust manifold, and it settled into running. Kind of crazy to hear it go after 10yrs.

As an FYI the oil filter/thermostat housing did leak as expected. The re-cut ORB fittings are good but the cap to hold the thermostat cartridge weeped. After I popped the cap off, replaced the o-ring with one a little bigger, and wound it back in it held oil pressure. Looking at the fitting diameter I suspect an 850 style aluminum oil drain washer would work just as well to seal it up. For the price it's amazingly good, but given that I've now machined or adapted every port...well, I probably can't recommend it.

One quick question as I puzzle through next steps:

  • On the first version I didn't fit in the push rod throttle linkage because of the proximity of the brake booster stalk. Instead, I adapted a throttle wheel and directly attached that to the throttle cable. I didn't think that was a big deal at the time, but, as I try to get the throttle plate to consistently return to close I'm beginning to think that was in for a reason. Am I correct in guessing the throttle linkage stops the butterfly from being back driven? I wound the remaining torsion spring on the throttle body an extra turn and that certainly helps the throttle snap back. Even with that, sometimes it returns to ~800RPM and sometimes to 1500.

Not the end of the world for now, but, it's on the list to solve.

The original didn't have space for an idle control motor and for the sake of expediency I haven't added one in this version. While annoyingly manual it does seem to start and idle pretty consistently around 900RPM. Presuming that to be close enough I set timing there to be ~13*. There is a bit of chasing your tail with that so maybe an idle motor wouldn't be a bad thing to add...
 
Completed a complicated bracket for the radiator catch can. Connects the slam panel with the interior fender wall while missing the upper headlight adjuster. Not so much designed as cut and tried.

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The tabs and hose clamp hold the can very very securely. The hose clamp has since been trimmed to minimum length.

It sits behind the left headlight just missing the cold side charge pipe and brake master. Need to add a vent hole to the lid. So far, in testing, I've been operating the cooling system open. I've tested it to 20PSI with the radiator tester and no leaks. With the catch can plumbed it it'll be time to fully fill the cooling system and put the cap on for final.
 
Not many great pictures of the idle control valve mounting, but, more will be forthcoming when it comes out for paint. It's installed now in bare metal because it's too cold to paint in the garage.

A few pictures of things in progress. This is an adapter plate for the cold start injector on some B21 manifolds. Mine just had a blank off plate. That's a 1/2" NPT threading in the middle. Went with NPT because I wasn't precisely sure what angle I'd want for the outlet.

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A little freehand machining later...

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Got it all hooked up, temporarily and the idle settled into a calm and steady 750RPM. Switched on the high beams (2x 100W) and got a small blimp but a steady 750RPM. It also just starts up from cold without a lot of drama. A huge improvement.

The parts it took included:

  • Bosch-like idle control valve. This all of these seem to be 5/8" outlet which is a huge pain. It's a 3-pin 20ohm drive just like stock. The center pin is hot when the car is running (green wire) and the outer motor pins are pulled to ground by the ECU. If you reverse it the car just stalls when demand for more RPM is met with more closing.
  • Bosch-like pigtail. In this case the molded in 1, 2, and 3 agree with the pinout of the Haynes wiring diagram for LH2.2
  • Length of 5/8" OD tubing from McMaster-Carr. This became the outlet bung on the cold side charge pipe. Also from McMaster-Carr is a length of 5/8" ID tubing to attach it.
  • 5/8" to 3/4" silicon adapter. I cut this down as far as possible to reduce as much stack as I could. It's a reoccurring complaint - not much space.
  • tight 90* plastic hose barb from Lowes. I'd like to replace this with something nicer looking but a 3/4" to 3/4" barb tight 90 are usually these ugly and too big brass things. This interfaces with the line going under the manifold and then up to the adapter.
  • 3/4" long leg 90 in silicon. The last turn from under the 90* off the IAC up to the manifold adapter. Sliced to length as appropriate.
  • barbed 90 to 1/2" pipethread. Terrible price, but it fits. Need the inlet close to the manifold so tapped the adapter deeper up the NPT taper and then machined off the narrow end of the barb so it didn't protrude.

The completed system is almost completely obscured below the manifold. It's possible to see the connector end of the IAC next to the distributor and the 90* fitting up at the manifold but that's about it. The IAC ends up mounted on the charge pipe with a little bracket and a hose clamp to secure it.
 
Next up, a bit of wiring. I had a couple of fixes to apply:

  • get rid of the early 2000s split loom
  • make things actually reach. Many things had been moved around in the engine compartment since the last loom was adapted.
  • get rid of the very very hardened Volvo over jacket
  • generally neaten things and organize the wiring
  • move the powerstage right next to the coil. In v1.0 this was across the engine compartment and I think responsible for spark drop out at idle. This appears to be true as that problem went away with moving the module.

First step: take it all apart.

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The key to this is a set of terminal removal tools of which you need precisely one:

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Note the slight angle on the tip. This pushes the locking tab out of the way and the insert slides right out. The tab is on the non-crimp side. Not great focus but the tool is slid into the housing on the side of the connector away from the crimp barbs, the tab is depressed and the insert is removed. There are opening for tabs on both sides but the insert is single sided. On reinsertion there are locking ramps in either orientation.

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With careful measuring all the wires are sized to just the right length. PET braid is slid over (coverage starting at the deepest point!) with heat shrink as appropriate at junctions and terminations. Not all the boots survived to process but those were usually pretty shredded already.

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The three main bundles in the engine compartment are:

  • AMM, fan, O2 sensor (right side)
  • Inejectors (resistor pack moved out of the engine bay)
  • Engine sensors (coolant temp, TPS, knock, oil temp, etc...)
  • Powerstage

These go through a grommet in the firewall and end up in the passenger footwell.

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That part does get split loom because it's so much easier when you don't have a depinned end. It's also under the carpet. These harnesses also carry in power from a sub-fuse panel and relays under the dash.
 
And as it stands today:

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Left the garage under it's own power and idled in the driveway. Fan cycled on and off again so that all seems to work. Nothing leaks. No belts squeal.

Tires are aired up, lug nuts are torqued and running out of excuses to let this thing go. For tires set one (on there) are ~10yrs old and hard as old eraser shavings. Potential set 2 are the tires from the T5-R. Those are pure summer treadwear 200 Potenza RE-71R. Given road temps in the low 40s either set will probably put me into a utility pole before too long. Best to take it easy.
 
Nice work there. The photos must not account for the foul muttering to oneself and patience required to mate everything up properly!
 
Nice work, good tip on the terminal tools.

My tip in return - summer tires in winter are a terrible idea and can make you really sad really quickly. I wish I could find the photo of my bent 911, but you get the picture...
 
My tip in return - summer tires in winter are a terrible idea and can make you really sad really quickly. I wish I could find the photo of my bent 911, but you get the picture...

That was one of the great tragedies of COVID - not feeling the need to break out the summer tires. The T5-R just sat on the curb all summer wearing the winter steelies. I think I drove it twice? The Potenzas go on when I can be confident the road surfaces will be in the 50s as they are sketchy in the cold. They're marked as treadwear 200 but a friend of mine who uses up a lot of DOT race tires claims they're closer to 150. They certainly throw a bunch of gravel up into the wheel wells when given the opportunity. They're, surprisingly, not too bad in the rain.
 
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