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Billstein B6s/I hate PennDot

conehead

Active member
Joined
Apr 21, 2021
94 940t wagon. B6s all around, ipd front and rear sways, upper strut brace and lower chassis brace (from 960?).

Anyone else feel like B6s are just too rough? On nice roads with moderate/average bumps and potholes, it handles great, but on rougher roads I feel like I'm shaking all the bolts loose. Specifically a slight clunking/bottoming out jarring sensation that mainly happens when driving on washboardy pa roads and cement bridge dividers etc. I know they're supposed to be stiffer, but God damn I can't imagine everyone having the same experience as me and still touting these as being the bees knees.

I'm fairly certain that the rest of my suspension is in good order;

When I did the shocks, I also did strut mount and bearing, ball joints, outer tie rod ends and poly control arm bushings. I've double and triple checked my gland nuts, which I am fairly certain are as tight as can be using a pipe wrench and channel locks

Old sway bar bushings wouldn't cause such a sensation, would they? Cause that and inner tie rods are the only things I haven't done in the front.

Is this just how B6s are?

Id love to hear from those of you that have or have had these shocks, and what your thoughts were, where did you drive them etc.

And for the record, I have read as many threads on this as I could find, some of which had helpful clues, but nothing concrete (and most of what I found is several years old and I'm wondering if perhaps the quality of these shocks may have deteriorated over the years and even out of the box they might not be what the were 10/15 years ago
 
Yep. On smooth roads, they're great. Anything else sucks bad. Bilstein touring or kybs is good for a daily driver.
 
I've only used B6 in 240s but that is my experience. The B6 is a firm ride that can be too harsh for some. I'm fine with it. I will say that I've also used Konis and it's great to have the adjustment that goes from comfortable to extremely firm with just a click or two.

From a service standpoint. I never had to warranty replace a B6 but when I had to warranty replace a Koni they took care of me.
 
The B6 is a firm ride that can be too harsh for some. I'm fine with it.

As long as I know that its supposed to feel this way, I'm willing to get used to it, just feels a little rough when I'm driving my older neighbor/coworker/ladyfriend around... I thought that that things were gonna be tight and smooth, not rough and firm....uh, still talking about the shocks here by the way.
 
thanks for the input fellas, after careful consideration, I've decided to NOT give a sh*t about the shocks, after all, they do a pretty swell job keeping the car planted... That said, if youre reading this from the future and you're thinking about getting b6s, uhhh..go ahead and do it I guess....do they still have b6s in your year? How about gasoline? Do they still have gasoline?? Did wood gasification ever gain traction???
 
One interesting thing that I experienced with the B6 was using them with stock springs vs using them with the IPD springs. When using them with stock springs and this is with the calibration from Bilstein. The ride was as described above but on the highway at speeds like 70 you would have a weird oscillation from the front. Then I put IPD springs on the car and the oscillation went away. I liked the ride better with the IPD springs and it had more control and a better ride on the rough roads.

So, using the B6 with stiffer than stock springs seems to be a better combination than stock springs with B6.
 
Good idea about matching a stiffer spring with the shocks. And if you like making things as complicated as possible like me, B6's can be revalved. There are also some NOS 7/900 DeCarbons on eBay. Gas monotube like B6's but generally with better damping rates from what I've heard.
 
The B6 I am using now in the turbo are revalved to Rsport Decarbon shock specs. Those specs are listed on Dave Bartons site and I decided to try them out. They have lasted very well so far. Just upgraded the front springs from 250lb barrel springs to 325lb barrel springs. So far they seem good with these springs.
 
One interesting thing that I experienced with the B6 was using them with stock springs vs using them with the IPD springs. When using them with stock springs and this is with the calibration from Bilstein. The ride was as described above but on the highway at speeds like 70 you would have a weird oscillation from the front. Then I put IPD springs on the car and the oscillation went away. I liked the ride better with the IPD springs and it had more control and a better ride on the rough roads.

So, using the B6 with stiffer than stock springs seems to be a better combination than stock springs with B6.

this is very illuminating! I was thinking my alignment was off or the tie rods were more worn that I thought, but now you have me thinking I want springs. Im assuming we are talking about IPD lowering springs, correct? I see they also have overload springs and a couple other options.
 
Good idea about matching a stiffer spring with the shocks. And if you like making things as complicated as possible like me, B6's can be revalved. There are also some NOS 7/900 DeCarbons on eBay. Gas monotube like B6's but generally with better damping rates from what I've heard.

Do you have a favorite place to get them revalved?
 
I'm fine with the Bills on my 940T, handles amazing (with all supporting mods ofcourse) but I just noticed my mistake in using "Rein brand" strut mounts when I did the bilsteins and lowering springs... only been a few years and it seems like my strut is about to shoot through my hood at any moment. *facepalm* fml. (The rubber is visibly poking up on the pass side) :(
 
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*I'm thinking of welding up brackets that bolt to the strut hat bolts, crossing over the strut top itself just as a precaution for now until the weather gets nicer. Could actually work and save my hood! (Hmm?)
 
That seems like a good temp fix to stop the progression of failure. After that it's BNE mounts to solve the problem. :cool:


Having installed the BNE 'budget' mounts in mine, man, the handling improvement alone is worth it with no real NVH issues after a few years. Had one bearing fail premature, got a new on in there, no issues since.
 
Check this out... I found some old motor mount "shear straps" and doubled them up and used some extra bolts to bolt them down and wallah! (I had a genius moment) lol.
 

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That seems like a good temp fix to stop the progression of failure. After that it's BNE mounts to solve the problem. :cool:

Easier than welding. ;) but yeah, solid BNE plates in the spring for certain!
 
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