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How hot is too hot for an aw71 to run?

C

Cl1n7R1X

New member
Joined
Nov 21, 2010
Location
Perth, Western Australia
Just wondering who if anyone has installed a temp gauge on their gearbox and what would be considered too hot to run one? Average running temp to maximum? Hoping to make the burnouts on the 29th but need to pull my finger out and get a couple of things done. Mainly exhaust and welding the diff. But gearbox is what i need to know about as i don't want to fry it first day out. Thanks in advance all :-)
 
I can't tell you a temperature but I can tell you that if you don't already have a huge transmission cooler with a fan you need to get one or your AW will be dead after a few burnouts.
 
getting one sorted this weekend. Same as the chevs are running. I couldn't find a trans temp gauge but i've got an oil temp gauge ready to be plumbed in ( need to find a t piece to suit) Obviously if it goes the the high end of the gauge i'm backing off right away. The cooler i'm getting is 45 x 45 fan forced.
 
varg said:
I can't tell you a temperature but I can tell you that if you don't already have a huge transmission cooler with a fan you need to get one or your AW will be dead after a few burnouts.
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If this were true, my tranny would've been dead a long time ago. Countless drag runs(all wwithin 1 minute of each other, big burnouts on the weekends for the ricers, and lots of practice launching and my transmission is fine.

But yes, get a cooler.
 
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If I was stressing an automatic I would have a trans temp gauge at a minimum. Once you cook it beyond a certain point (varies with fluid) it rapidly loses its ability to cool. Cooler is a must for performance applications.
 
ok i know i need a gauge. I know i need a cooler. What i need to know is who else has one and what temps do they run at? I have both a cooler and a gauge. And accumulator mod have been done. I know someone with a 900 series put a temp gauge on his box but i don't know his name.
 
Not a AW but I ran my truck with some very hot mods and auto. The RE47 would take a dump after anything over 210. If I kept it under 190 it would live 30K or so behind 1100 ft/lbs. If the flid is over 225 or so it no longer can cool and things go south from there. The converter is the biggest heat maker.

I'd shoot for under 180 for high stress with dino and under 190 with synthetic.

On the flip side under 150 or so is almost as bad.
 
The best place is either on the outlet line as close to the box as practical or on the valvebody which means serious mods to fit.

Jegs used to sell a really nice thermostatically controlled cooler with a true bypass. Wasn't cheap but they worked well.
 
Cl1n7R1X said:
thanks mate that was the sort of info i was after :-D
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Depends on the fluid. Synthetic is going to be able to take higher temps. When I was a Eurovan driver they were notorious for frail trans. They had synthetic ATF (Pentosin) from the factory and that was not good for anything much over 250. I exceeded that by a few degrees in the mountains in the summer and changed the fluid shortly thereafter to be safe.
 
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