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Cheap, mild N/A B230F build for racing?

I was looking earlier and saw this, and intuitively it makes sense that with the link being before the throttle, that would mean it's only vacuum when the throttle is mostly closed, and when you're on it, it would vent, but since I also removed the IAC, I don't want it to be annoying to keep alive. Pulling that was one of the last things I did past weekend, rushing to leave before traffic, so I don't know how it idles right now without that. Don't know where that diagram is from either.

My baseline for success is working properly at 3/4-full throttle in race conditions, hanging in someone's roost without sucking in moisture or shorting something. The inconvenience I'm willing to endure in other situations is extreme, and refinement can come later.
 
driver skill

Workin on it


I read this car has a 4.10 rear, which seems sufficiently short for right now, and if I manage to eventually find all the manual trans parts, it should be the business. Plan is to weld it locked soon. Or maybe not at first, since the internet tells me not to, but we'll see.
 
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Pressure on one side, vacuum on the other:oogle:

Get serious.
1000-1800 PSI on one side.. -2-3psi on the other and the -2-3 psi is supposedly doing something..
Please explain. (you have not described how, you have asserted a thing happenens and asserted that it is somehow effective enough to give some thought to...the question is "how")
 
Get serious.
1000-1800 PSI on one side.. -2-3psi on the other and the -2-3 psi is supposedly doing something..
Please explain. (you have not described how, you have asserted a thing happenens and asserted that it is somehow effective enough to give some thought to...the question is "how")

Is "-2-3" less than 0? Nowhere did I say it would make a big difference anyway. Let's not derail the thread
 
So I need to buy a hose. Kids, don't take off the IAC.

Another question; I have a relay and some wires that go into the top right corner of the radiator (from driver's perspective,) which seem to be for an aux cooling fan I don't have.

However, off of this comes the "HEATER FAN PRES SENS" for my non-ecc car, which I assume means a sensor which detects the presence of this fan. I disconnected all this stuff, and the car is running very rich. I don't know if these things are related, but that's my question: If the car doesn't have anything coming in to/from that sensor, what might happen? Or is FAN PRES something else?
 
Don't worry, I'm going to vent PCV directly to a hookah pipe I'll be sucking on if the race is giving me agitas, so that's taken care of.
 
No, go right ahead. Whether I'm losing power by getting rid of that PCV hose is worth about 20 minutes of work.



If when this is done it's worth $30k, it means I won the lottery between now and then. Though I am curious what that "quick-ratio steering rack" is.


Either Janne Sellholm in Sala or whasis name over on the coast in G?vle make guts for the 240 ZF PS rack so they rack over more per turn of the steering wheel..

A typical 240 ZF rack moves 55mm per turn of the wheel..
Those must around 65 or more mm per turn of the wheel..
I say that because I've compared those kits when I got one for some guy and sat it down next to a stock merkur XR4Ti ZF PS rack..
Xratty rack moved 64mm per turn..

Quicker steering response in a must when going really fast down skinny ass roads with lots of turns....People DO get behind, and if you get behind, you are going to prang the car...or slow down...

In the end the turns you feel at the wheel to go from full left to full right is around 3,4 turns in a stock PS rack (and a sluggarly 4,1--totally unacceptable) and these kits reduce the lock to lock to 2.5 turns --and the Xratty stock is 2,6..
For reference on my old rally car--a Saab 96 V4 stock was 2,7 turns and the stock up thru 1968 was 2,2 turns..Quick ratio stock.. The other rally car which is a Xratti with a Ford Sierra Cosworth 4x4 drivetrain had 2,6 stock and now is 1,9 turns..Quicker car needs quicker steering.
 
Right, was really just curious where I could get one. Sounds like it would be from somewhere far away, for lots of money. Oh well, thank you for the info though.

Will be working again today, one item will be to hook up the cooling fan relay I mentioned and see if that fixes the rich condition. Anyone is free to tell me this is a fool's errand.
 
I'm very dumb, and realized this morning why I was so confused by that relay, because I traced everything back and realized it had never been plugged into anything but battery and ground. So, the ECU wouldn't be dumping fuel on account of that.

I got it to a place where it would idle fine without IAC, but it still runs like **** and not just at idle so I'm not sure what I've done to make that happen besides PCV/IAC. It's probably a vacuum leak, but it'll be another week before I can look for that, and it's possible I've fouled the old plugs already.

I also shouldn't be dismissive of the steering rack idea, I just assume anything that isn't local dirty metal costs a fortune. Faster steering would be awesome, and it's something I'd like to keep in mind as this car turns into whatever it may become if it survives a season or two of ice. My real car has quick steering, it is something I prioritize.

Pictures! You all deserve to see the whole thing. Also, perfect for those of us who like to wire things lazily, my new favorite toys, magnetic third hands!
 
I got it to a place where it would idle fine without IAC, but it still runs like **** and not just at idle so I'm not sure what I've done to make that happen besides PCV/IAC. It's probably a vacuum leak, but it'll be another week before I can look for that, and it's possible I've fouled the old plugs already.
I was never able to get mine to run "right" without the IAC, but i didn't really put much effort into it before getting a good used one. Depending on how the PCV is disconnected it can be a vacuum leak, if you left the flame trap and T fitting with its vacuum line to the manifold connected, so check for that

Also where in mass are ya? I'm in the northeast near Newburyport most of the time. Your woods look very similar to mine with the derelict rock walls everywhere:-P
 
I remember that i left the hose that goes to the stock airbox disconnected, but do not remember if I plugged anything else connected to that. I plugged a vacuum leak on the top of the manifold but it sounds like this is underneath. Could be it, will check next weekend.

I am in Boston; the car is up around the middle of NH where all the water is.
 
I remember that i left the hose that goes to the stock airbox disconnected, but do not remember if I plugged anything else connected to that. I plugged a vacuum leak on the top of the manifold but it sounds like this is underneath. Could be it, will check next weekend.

I am in Boston; the car is up around the middle of NH where all the water is.

Cool cool, I take class in south boston. You probably already tried this but spray ether around the intake area to help identify vac leaks if that is your problem. Also a new O2 sensor could help, but make sure there are no exhaust leaks before the sensor before splurging for another one. There is a way to test the current one with a multimeter but i don't remember how on the top of my head. You can get a generic bosch one (i forget the part #) but it'll require you to splice the old connector on but i'll cost you much less than the volvo one with the correct connector.
 
Update. Sending it as a limp-dick street car. Basic prep took all the time. Apparently turbos are allowed now anyway so this thread is pointless but for random questions I have as I break things.

Pics or it didn't happen:
haImycU.jpg


Bad driving:
https://youtu.be/CC4Omcb3pz4
https://youtu.be/nV9yG8Afe8c

Long story short, need some ideas for the radiator. This is the current situation:

WEquMZc.jpg


Yes that's cardboard and rope. Obviously I need a more robust solution before the car receives much more damage.

Bearing in mind that this car will only be used in short bursts for the foreseeable future, could I get away with using a smaller aluminum radiator, or relocating, or both?
 
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