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Cheap, mild N/A B230F build for racing?

Why not beef up the radiator mount with more metal, say weld some metal bars across the top and bottom of where you want to mount the radiator, up front like stock, or in the back seat area? I don't see a problem other then you just need to mount it stronger is all? But if you want to crash into things then put it out back if that's allowed.
 
Just get a hammer, and beat that front end metal back to near where it belongs, then add some structure until the radiator doesn't move. Also go turbo. I am still pissed at myself for racing a 240 for 7 years before boosting it.
 
sbabbs, welding is a bit of a bugbear at a moment, I have no experience myself and no one who's good at it likes me enough to do that much of it on the cheap. Ideally, it would be reinforced from the strut towers forward (at the frame) with something beefy protecting the radiator and its mounting points.

I don't really want to crash into anyone but I'd like to hedge my bets, so I could put a little eBay Honda radiator in the right rear window hole and it would be fine, provided that would actually cool the engine sufficiently. Note, no gauges yet. I have some, not installed.

Trevor, it's out of whack beyond hammer correction range. Frame is bent downwards slightly, plan is to strap it to trailer and jack it to straighten a bit, and then I figure I'll have to address my fear of welding.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/IvNS73z5RBypXWvR2
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Xpr0O5Eqa93YmWl72

At least it's a 740, right?
 
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I've decided I'm going to stop being a ******* baby and get myself a welder. There's no reason to not be able to stick metal together. I don't have 220v+ right now so I'm going back and forth between an Hazard Fraught beater flux core and getting really drunk and buying a Hobart 120/240.

One reason besides reinforcement, is exhaust: I neglected to take off the stock exhaust so obviously it fell off and broke, at the back of the cat. I have no good way to support the cat now, so it's off and the flex pipe hangs, limp, like _ ____ __ _______.

Unfortunately this means the O2 sensor is nowhere near where it needs to be- you can see it tied to the dash bar in the videos, out in the cold. I had planned to get a no-weld bung and do something with the sad nub at the end of the flex pipe and and a little turn down or something, but if I can weld, I can do better.

Question is, how long can this run like this before I've made a mess inside the engine? I doubt I'll have time to address this saturday before racing Sunday, so it's at least going to spend another 15 whole minutes at full throttle before that O2 sensor is anywhere near exhaust.

Also, while I'd like to reinforce the front no matter what radiator is in there, I'm still a bit iffy about having one that is both partially plastic and old. A rad ain't rocket science, and the the scope of use is narrow, I could use almost whatever fits that isn't obvious garbage, right?
 
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My concern with a 110v only welder was that I suspect I'm eventually going to be working with relatively thick material. Plenty of great deals on both 110 and 220 welders on CL, but no one seems to want to sell their 120/220. Refurbished, the cheapest Hobart that can do both is within range of what I can convince myself I could afford, again if I drink enough, while a refurb 140 is actually pretty enticing. $419.99, good number. I do have some access to larger welders, I just like to have my own stuff.

Have you encountered a situation in which your 140 broke a sweat?

I really need a steering wheel quick-disconnect, which would mean welding an adapter onto the solid steering shaft, that I assume would definitely need a big weld...
 
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My concern with a 110v only welder was that I suspect I'm eventually going to be working with relatively thick material. Plenty of great deals on both 110 and 220 welders on CL, but no one seems to want to sell their 120/220. Refurbished, the cheapest Hobart that can do both is within range of what I can convince myself I could afford, again if I drink enough, while a refurb 140 is actually pretty enticing. $419.99, good number. I do have some access to larger welders, I just like to have my own stuff.

Have you encountered a situation in which your 140 broke a sweat?

I really need a steering wheel quick-disconnect, which would mean welding an adapter onto the solid steering shaft, that I assume would definitely need a big weld...
I do light car related fab and repair work. Haven't needed anything bigger yet, but I'm no Buchka with mad crazy fabbing skills either.

I got mine off of CL $600. It was never used (new) and had a cart, a full bottle and a couple large spools of wire. I was looking for something like a Lincoln in good used condition for $400ish. The shiny newness sold me though.

36411300336_a6a590dcd3_z.jpg
 
I'm getting feelings. What size bottle is that? & of what?

also nice floor
 
Nice. I hope you got the hobart. I started with a lincoln flux core. That was a huge mistake, but I was able to sell it for what I paid. I have the miller version of that hobart, and use it 75% of the time, and it sticks 1/8" together fine, which I almost never do bigger than that. I checked out your video, and was sad to find out you are very far away from me. I would like to come out and do some ice racing.
 
Yep, Hobart 210 refurb. Buy once cry once. I don't anticipate ever needing anything else.

John, will definitely be getting some decent 30/35 wire immediately plus someone's off-cut scraps to sequester myself with.

Update: broke the car. Dusted a rear brake line and there's power steering fluid everywhere. I had to hurry to put it on a trailer and wave goodbye so I don't know if that's a hose gone or what.

Last weekend I broke a few cross links on the passenger car-grade V bar chains I was using, and I suspect that clipped the brake line, and this week it disintegrated. I'm now using basically customized logger truck chains* and I suspect they stick out enough, and the wheel deflects enough, that they could maybe come into contact with lines again even without breaking. Two options: 1) Longer brake lines, and secure them up in the wheelwell, 2) lower-offset wheels to poke 'em out a bit, flare fenders. First is cheaper, 2nd looks cooler. Either a terrible idea?

* Apparently, these are arguably worse than V bars unless sharpened, which I did not know. Mine are also far too loose. They should look like this.

On the steering rack, I was pretty hot on the quickener idea, but after making a mess I'm wondering if the extra stress on the rack is really a great move? Again I don't know if I just popped a line or what, but if I can rip on the thing twice as fast, is this going to happen all the time?

Very hard ice on Sun, lots of incidents and broken cars, couple flips. Steering rack has its work cut out:

https://youtu.be/E8_L89dhoX8 (can't drive an automatic transmission)
https://youtu.be/Higz8jFSZ3Q (can't do a pace lap, or drive at all)
 
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haImycU.jpg




Long story short, need some ideas for the radiator. This is the current situation:
Is that a sunroof? Put the rad in the sunroof hole and put the fan on top blowing down. It will warm the driver......

edit: though if the rad fails or a hose comes off, it may over-warm the driver.....Wear goretex over the nomex over the thinsulate over the hairy manchest. Its the northern way.
 
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Looks pretty fun actually. My favorite part would be dodging spinning cars while full speed through a turn. That's a real arse puckerer.

You need a manual so your feet can dance like your arms.

You need some grip. What do you have for rear shocks?

When you are really close to spinning out, don't let off the throttle completely. It transfers weight off the rear to the front which causes you to spin out for sure. Keep a little throttle on and once in a while you will be able to save it.

Try lowering the rear of your car a little so it squats more. You'll get less weight transfer to the front when off throttle and it will help with forward propulsion a little.
 
Looks pretty fun actually. My favorite part would be dodging spinning cars while full speed through a turn. That's a real arse puckerer.

Yep, with an added element of shame when you're being dodged.

You need a manual so your feet can dance like your arms.

I'd love one.

You need some grip. What do you have for rear shocks?

Old ones. Traction is a bit of a long story, shocks wouldn't hurt for sure, but weren't the biggest problem. Getting chains right is taking some trial and error. Here is a picture of the huge chunks of tread hogged out as chain rotated on tire. In the picture of the correct, sharpened chains, you can see that the cross links are deep into the carcass, and compare to mine, which are not. When they're loose, you're just skating on the side of the stud, they don't bite consistently. Tightening will be near-impossible without tire tools but it needs to be done.

I'm going to be spending the next week of evenings sharpening all of those studs, and I'm putting off doing so by typing this.

When you are really close to spinning out, don't let off the throttle completely. It transfers weight off the rear to the front which causes you to spin out for sure. Keep a little throttle on and once in a while you will be able to save it.

Try lowering the rear of your car a little so it squats more. You'll get less weight transfer to the front when off throttle and it will help with forward propulsion a little.

All good advice, once I solve the chain problems so that my inputs have more consistent results, and fix the car, I will consider that. I am loathe to lose travel, the ruts get big. Sprint cars and big-wing modifieds tear that **** up.

This is the left front tire:

9ZjRMLK.jpg
 
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