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I do not, I haven't really met anyone local on the forums. Been flying solo for majority of the time.

I have been trained to NEVER use scotch brite on internal engine components. It leaves abrasive dust.

IPD sells solid dowel pins. I have a couple in my stash if you need one.

I have 2 on the way, should be here next week. What would be another option to smooth out the cam and the cap?

I said use a scotch brite on that one cap and then, obviously ,
you wash away any dirt grime grease or left over bits of green scrubby before you install it

wire wheel on cam
green scrubby on jacked up aluminum piece
emery cloth to clean up iron block, should you need to do a head gasket

you want to clean aluminum with something softer than aluminum
tooth brush, your finger nail, a popsicle stick, maybe a plastic spoon, old green scrubby from under the kitchen sink

this isn't a space shuttle, it's an old 240

ZVOLV said:

I have been trained to NEVER use scotch brite on internal engine components. It leaves abrasive dust.

IPD sells solid dowel pins. I have a couple in my stash if you need one.

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This stupid myth needs to die. Go to a crank shaft shop sometime and check out what is used to polish a crankshaft after grinding it.

OP, do not reassemble the cam/sprocket without the washer. The washer is what locates the cam sprocket in the right place relative to the idler shaft and crank sprocket.

Can I install the cam by itself just to check valve lash or do I need to wait for the washer and install everything?. I just finished fishing out the pin from the cam.

TheMenaceSD said:

Can I install the cam by itself just to check valve lash or do I need to wait for the washer and install everything?. I just finished fishing out the pin from the cam.

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No problem doing that. Without the washer the sprockets will not be aligned and at high speed, the belt may want to wander. It also might be fine, hard to say, not worth taking a chance running it that way. For just setting things up, go ahead with what you are doing.

If the intermediate shaft spins and no oil comes up does that mean the oil pump isn't connected correctly? Don't want to go through all the trouble of putting it all back together if there is a oiling problem and it happens again.

If you are spinning the intermediate shaft clockwise facing the engine and you are turning it fast enough with an air ratchet or electric drill, oil should be coming out of the cam journal supply holes. If not, that?s why you have a scored cam journal and broken cam sprocket dowel pin.

Would it be able to remove the pvc box and the shaft from there and reinstall or do I need to pull the pan?

The oil pan has to come off in order to change the oil pump. Is it not pumping any oil?

I removed my oil filter and if I spin the shaft oil comes out.

Put on a new oil filter and try again. There may have been something funky with that oil filter.

Could my oil relocation and sandwich plate effect it or possibly just the filter. I'm gonna blow air in my spare head to see where the oil passages are. It might be the head I grabbed from the yard had the passages clogged since I tossed it on and it never went to a machine shop.

Maybe you put the head gasket on the wrong way and blocked the oil passage to the head.

If I blow air into my spare 530 head at each oil passage for the cam they all come out the same hole which is for the head bolt. Is that correct or are there other passages that I am missing. Just want to know what I'm looking for before I take the head off.

seems like there is a lot of back story here...

so you replaced the head and then ?... then tried to start it but it never started ? ...

but you cranked it for sometime and that was enough to score that cap?

and shear off the pin on the gear ? and destroy the washer ?

Did you mix and match the cam and / or gears from the other head?

Hopefully this can answer some questions

so you replaced the head and then ?... then tried to start it but it never started ? Got the car running and with the old head. Drove it home and went to do the +T swap and the exhaust stud on the back cam out with the helicoil from the previous owner. Instead of sending the head to the shop to get it fixed I pulled a head from the JY since I couldn't afford the machine shop. I finished the +T swap with the JY head and it was running. The starter went out or it could have been the cam locking up as I attempted to crank it multiple times to get it to start. Once I swapped out the starter it wouldn't start and then I cranked it with a second set of eyes and noticed that the cam wasn't spinning.

but you cranked it for sometime and that was enough to score that cap?

and shear off the pin on the gear ? and destroy the washer ? The pin on the cam sheared off and the washer spilt open. It did a little bit of damage to the back of the cam gear.

Did you mix and match the cam and / or gears from the other head? I swapped a T cam from the JY with the M cam that came in the original 530 head.

Seems probably the best option is to pull the whole thing and take the head into the machine shop along with the block since it has 160k on the clock or maybe more.

ok wow and a +t lots going on... probably don't need to send anything to a machine shop.