0.33mm or 0.013in gave me a surprisingly hawg idle with the B cam.
B cam has that chop chop chop
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0.33mm or 0.013in gave me a surprisingly hawg idle with the B cam.
0.33mm or 0.013in gave me a surprisingly hawg idle with the B cam.
If you're having head work done, why not have larger valves installed? The clip came off my WG actuator one time so my car was basically running N/A, I could definitely tell it breathes better and has more power than when it had stock valves.
The exhaust valve is the undersized valve. You can go to a 37mm exhaust valve without changing the exhaust valve seat. With flow work you can get a 20% increase in flow from the head. I'd also suggest a street performance cam like the n/a enem V15. Plenty of down low torque and winds out with power to redline. Probably want to advance it a few degrees to help with the auto trans.
What's the "flow work" that would be involved?
Look around here: http://www.topplocksverkstan.se/toppar.html
This is what I do (click the pics on n the first post to get to the larger Flickr album):
https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=349975
Here?s the larger Flickr album:
https://www.flickr.com/gp/151736174@N04/0ic9yG
A good stock valve head is capable of ~225hp+ according to Erland Cox. Going to larger valves with a mild NA engine is not the direction you want to be going IMO.
KLR142 is making 150 something wheel HP on a stock valve head and a k-jet manifold (mild ported 531, higher compression, and a big cam).
Doubt the stock exhaust valve to 37.5-38mm increment makes a lot of sense in most applications...