• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

S-L-O-W 1993 240 Classic wagon

If you're having head work done, why not have larger valves installed? The clip came off my WG actuator one time so my car was basically running N/A, I could definitely tell it breathes better and has more power than when it had stock valves.

Another question: is there any difference between the head on your engine and the one used on a NA B230f? I ask because I'm wondering if larger valves are likely to produce the same benefit you noticed if the downstream route is constipated as it enters the manifold. The interweb chatter seems to be negative on the stock exhaust ports of the NA B230f, to the extent that it is irredeemable by altered porting. Intake side does not seem to garner as much attention from the chatterers.

Not opposed to spending a bit more, but the "bit" part is not infinite, and needs to produce some speed or fuel economy under the cruising conditions to which this car will be subjected.
 
Last edited:
The exhaust valve is the undersized valve. You can go to a 37mm exhaust valve without changing the exhaust valve seat. With flow work you can get a 20% increase in flow from the head. I'd also suggest a street performance cam like the n/a enem V15. Plenty of down low torque and winds out with power to redline. Probably want to advance it a few degrees to help with the auto trans.
 
The exhaust valve is the undersized valve. You can go to a 37mm exhaust valve without changing the exhaust valve seat. With flow work you can get a 20% increase in flow from the head. I'd also suggest a street performance cam like the n/a enem V15. Plenty of down low torque and winds out with power to redline. Probably want to advance it a few degrees to help with the auto trans.

What's the "flow work" that would be involved?
 
Machine shops can clean up and modify the passages and get a documented flow increase on these heads. I've had two heads done from D&F Performance in Berlin, NJ. One is on my turbo. It made a good performance increase at all rpms. Our member here Culberro can do this type of work.
 
To improve my n/a 93 wagon. I only did three things. I setup the airbox so it uses both intakes for cold air. Changed the cam to a n/a enem V15. Chipped EZK box. Now it has decent power, good mileage and can keep up with modern traffic.
 
What's the "flow work" that would be involved?

Look around here: http://www.topplocksverkstan.se/toppar.html

This is what I do (click the pics on n the first post to get to the larger Flickr album):
https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=349975

Here’s the larger Flickr album:
https://www.flickr.com/gp/151736174@N04/0ic9yG

A good stock valve head is capable of ~225hp+ according to Erland Cox. Going to larger valves with a mild NA engine is not the direction you want to be going IMO.

KLR142 is making 150 something wheel HP on a stock valve head and a k-jet manifold (mild ported 531, higher compression, and a big cam).
 
Last edited:
Look around here: http://www.topplocksverkstan.se/toppar.html

This is what I do (click the pics on n the first post to get to the larger Flickr album):
https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=349975

Here?s the larger Flickr album:
https://www.flickr.com/gp/151736174@N04/0ic9yG

A good stock valve head is capable of ~225hp+ according to Erland Cox. Going to larger valves with a mild NA engine is not the direction you want to be going IMO.

KLR142 is making 150 something wheel HP on a stock valve head and a k-jet manifold (mild ported 531, higher compression, and a big cam).


OK, in that case, it looks like I might be back to just shaving the head 0.040", sticking with the mild VX cam for now, and upgrading the exhaust later, if necessary.

So, what do you think of setting the clearances at 007-.010 on the intake and .010 to .013 on the exhaust if it's a completely rebuilt B230f head with new valves, guides, and springs?
 
Since you have an auto with a pretty low stall rpm, I’d just leave the valve clearances at the suggested 0.015” to start with. The VX will pull all the way to redline with only a slight dip in the upper revs.

Increasing the duration via tighter valves isn’t going to do much for you (if anything), even with more CR.

But you can do whatever you want and report back on your findings :)
 
I wouldn't bother with going tighter then .015 either.

With a VX cam and regular port work you wont notice the difference with .007" extra lift and you lose any margin for error before you get too tight.
 
Doubt the stock exhaust valve to 37.5-38mm increment makes a lot of sense in most applications...

The head off the race car is at R&L Engines now getting flow tested. Well, getting tested when he has time. 530 with 44/38 valves and port work. I'll let you know what the numbers end up being. I sent it with an F intake manifold and throttle body also, so we can get head numbers and then complete intake tract numbers.
 
I had the intake tested when I had my 531 head done a few years ago. It may be in Garys spreadsheet. Not sure but I can tell you the efi intake was a big restriction on head flow total. My guy ported it a little for me to help.
 
An update: the rebuilt cylinder head has arrived, shaved 0.040" as suggested. If I didn't know it was a rebuild, I'd swear it was NOS (thank you, Clearwater Cylinder Head). It's absolutely pristine, and it was $475 with free shipping, all original Volvo parts used in the rebuild. Next, I've collected all the pieces needed to upgrade/upsize the exhaust: 2.5" stainless starting at the 2:1 collector, back to a new 2.5" cat convertor, then more 2.5" ss pipe to a 2.5" 6"X14" straight-through muffler, more 2.5 stainless back to the axle, and then it's a cheap stock Starla turbo exhaust 2.25" back to the tailpipe. Overkill for the NA engine in it's present form, but future-proof if I go for more in the future, and easy to upgrade to 2.5" all the way back whenever. Found a welder with great skills, and a retired craftsman who still bends pipe to fit (harder to find than i ever thought it would be). Big-box muffler chains don't even want to look at the car if they can't find a pre-mangled pipe in their catalog. Now all I need is the time to assemble this puzzle. More later.
 
Last edited:
Another quick question:

I know my options to adjust ignition timing are limited in a 1993 B230F, but if this were a GM LT1 V8, where I'm on more familiar turf, I'd simply remove the PCM from a donor car and send it out to one of many services to add a custom tuning with a change in ignition timing included. The GM PCMs are easy to find and cheap, and a tuning can be had for as little as $125. They pop in and out very easily: 10 minutes, tops.

Is something similar the case for the B230F? I don't mind switching to 93 octane fuel if there is a commensurate bang per buck, especially as I'd have the original pcm to return to stock if desired, but it would better to keep any change in ignition timing to a degree that did not make 93 octane an absolute requirement.

OK, pile on.
 
You can buy chips and install them yourself with 1 caveat being some of the EZK (ignition computers) don't have a board to accept a chip so you'll need to find one that does. Colloquially called a goldbox EZK. The fuel LH box will accept a chip replacement.
 
The fuel/LH computer is located under the passenger kick panel trim to the right, and the ignition/EZK box is bolted to the passenger firewall under the dash.

The NA engine responds very well to some tweaked mapping, especially right off idle/low RPM ime
 
Back
Top