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S-L-O-W 1993 240 Classic wagon

OK. If I wanted to acquire a upgraded chip for my NA 1993 B230F, shaved 0.040 head, IPD VX cam, 2.5" exhaust, and did not necessarily want to be committed to 93 octane but perhaps a very modest increase in performance, from whom do I acquire such an item, or am I looking for a unicorn, and I just need to fill up with 93 (not the end of the world, that's what all my other cars demand).

Any comments on the plan for the exhaust system?
 
The "pink label" EZK units as found on the first year of NA LH2.4 240s (which is 1989) are chippable.

That said, I have a few for sale if you want to buy one.

If so, message me with an offer.
 
Regarding chips: anyone know of a video or online tutorial on precisely what is swapped, soldered, and where? I know the approximate location of the target. Now, if the task at hand was to destroy it, that is sufficient. But to do something more sophisticated I need more information.
 
I found two hilariously bad videos on YouTube describing the process of swapping chips in the EZK and fueling computers. This one is a beaut. Something goes terribly wrong (death by static shock?) at about 6:29 into the clip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8JCIe-lC3M

There is certainly a need for something (indeed anything!) better.

And then there's this one, which is useful, but somewhat creepy at several points. Wait for the part where he inexplicably barks F*&K into the camera. Tourett Syndrome? The fact that he's holding a mall-ninja knife at the time adds to the effect. See:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ab5rwInMkwE

Any tips on an easy way to determine if the EZK in the car is of the "gold" type without too much gutting?
 
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The plastic box will be a gold color. Pull back the footwell cover (if it’s still there) and see what color the EZK is.
Any EZK can be upgraded to have a chip socket for easy swapping. Just unsolder the chip, add socket, then add EPROM.
 
you won't have a gold one, they are like 94 95 turbo only
however you could use a gold turbo one with that NA chip.
Gold ones are much more expensive than the early black ones
that is some, not all, EZK 140 and 146
Most likely you have a chippable 9 series ECU, (933, 946, 951) that looks like that knucklehead's video
 

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dmg4 said:
Is the chip in the above units soldered in place, or press-fit?
Click to expand...

those are the EZKs, the daughter card is the vertical board and the chip and chip socket are under the plastic cover.

The fuel ECUs have the same chip and chip socket set up on their main board
 
Many of the N/A LH2.4 740 have a chip able EZK. You can also buy the daughter board kit and modify any EZK. The kit is available from user duder check out the link in his signature and Classic Swede also sells the kit.
 
OK, I'm new to this. I had nightmarish visions of trying to solder that centipede-like EPROM in place after, and perhaps worse, "unsoldering" the OEM EPROM from it's socket. My question was perhaps naive: it appears that the chip is pushed into the socket, and not soldered. Have I got it right now?
 
dmg4 said:
OK, I'm new to this. I had nightmarish visions of trying to solder that centipede-like EPROM in place after, and perhaps worse, "unsoldering" the OEM EPROM from it's socket. My question was perhaps naive: it appears that the chip is pushed into the socket, and not soldered. Have I got it right now?
Click to expand...

Yes. Use a small flat-bladed screwdriver to remove the chip and pry it up slowly. There's a U-shaped cutout on short edge/end of the chip - make note of its location.

Press the new chip in place and align the U-shaped cutout with its new location.
 
Achemedes might had a misplaced faith in what he might accomplish with a lever. At least that's what I think after removing the 30-yr-old head bolts. Jeeze, I don't know what those Swede assembly-line workers eat for breakfast, but you'd think that 45 ft/lbs plus 90 degrees would not result in those damnable things being so hard to break loose. There was also some kind of black crusty stuff on the center of the threaded section. Is that some kind of Lutefisk-Loctite?

But I digress. It's done now. I have a question on cam timing: Having shaved 0.040" off the head, I am now 4 degrees retarded (some might say more, but we're really talking about the cam, not me). I have an adjustable camshaft gear installed, and so if I advance 4 degrees, then I am back to "normal". Now, what would you suggest as a good starting point for cam timing? To review: I have a B230F, IPD-VX cam, 2.5" exhaust from the 2:1 collector back, NA, shaved 0.040" cylinder head, and now have the chip set from Redblockpowered installed. This car is not a racer. It's going to be a daily driver, mostly highway, with a bit more umpf. Advance, retard, or leave as is, and why?
 
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Most (all?) cam gears for redblocks have the degrees marked for the camshaft, not the crank. So you’ll want to adv it 2? as marked/indicated for it be “straight up”.

The VX3 already has 3? of adv ground into it, so adding more probably isn’t the best idea. Good news is, that changing cam timing takes all of about 10-20min at garage pace.
 
I've snapped some 3/8 extensions at the junkyards trying to pull heads, they definitely are in there good.

About cam timing, i'm not sure where the math puts it retarded, but I suggest to try to play with it yourself. At least for me it was pretty clear where straight up is/was/should be and the engine is the happiest with a factory cam if u fiddle with it a bit. (yes vx is a factory cam)
 
culberro said:
The VX3 already has 3? of adv ground into it, so adding more probably isn?t the best idea. Good news is, that changing cam timing takes all of about 10-20min at garage pace.
Click to expand...

I have the VX cam (for NA) not the VX3 (for turbo). Do you know if there is also advance ground into the VX?
 
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