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EV turbobrick - the turbobrick way?

The new t8 Volvos have a complete electric rear axle. Its actually quite marvelous. I believe the motor is around 100 hp with 300 ft/lb of torque. When you have the car in electric only mode, its got plenty of grunt to have fun. 100 hp... and lots of torque. seems like it would be right at home in a 240.

And if you wanted to go crazier, use a 960. You can swap in a FWD engine and trans from an early S70 or 850 and then do a direct drive electric on the stock 960 rear diff. Go big DC motor for launches or drifting, but you wouldn't need a massive battery pack for range because the gas engine would handle that.

The only downside to this would be using it as a constant-loss system for the electric unless you figured out a way to charge it from the ICE. Which could be done, but there would be efficiency trade-offs. Not to mention the lack of space.
 
People claim the transmission of a Lexus GS450h (~282lb) can do 1000hp in short bursts (https://www.diyelectriccar.com/threads/lexus-gs450h-transmission-to-a-mustang.204063/post-1065808), but I have never found supporting docs.

The 450H is a gold mine for DIY EV's. The CVT transmission is an overgrown prius unit, in RWD format. And the AWD the suv model (RX450H) had a fully self contained differential with it's own electric motor that was in parallel with a prop shaft. It is fully able to be used with or without the prop shaft there.

So dual motor EV, series hybrid, parallel hybrid, whatever.

And you can buy wrecked 450H's pretty cheap.
 
I really want to like the 450H transmission. I really want to put it in my Volvo, but the part that gets to me is that the most power your engine can ever provide to the wheels do is whatever the M1 motor can counterbalance -- at the expense of using battery power -- in the planetary gear. In other words, the gasoline engine is second citizen.
 
I tell ya whaat.


A VW TDi motor connected up to one of these transmissions would be dogs bollocks. 200 lbs/ft from a mildly tuned TDi, match that with the electric, then top it all off with the little kicker motor in the diff. Could easily top 400 HP and near that in torque, and it would probably get 45 mpg or more.
 
Probably wouldn't be a huge amount of money. ALH motor, Toyota pickup trans, adapter.

No help on the free time and parking space issue though, lol.

I've occasionally pondered a TDI swap into my PV.
 
And if you wanted to go crazier, use a 960. You can swap in a FWD engine and trans from an early S70 or 850 and then do a direct drive electric on the stock 960 rear diff. Go big DC motor for launches or drifting, but you wouldn't need a massive battery pack for range because the gas engine would handle that.

The only downside to this would be using it as a constant-loss system for the electric unless you figured out a way to charge it from the ICE. Which could be done, but there would be efficiency trade-offs. Not to mention the lack of space.

Thats where you'd use an AC system with tunable regen and low cogging torque. Then under braking, it applies progressively harder braking torque charging up you system, and under cruise applies the pulse and coast method to maintain pack levels at peak. The whole time, its using the road as power connection between the front wheels (ICE powered) and rear wheels (electric motor generator unit).

I believe this has been done with DC motors, but its not exactly tunable, and has inherent efficiency problems. With synchronus AC, you can manage the direction of current a lot better, more efficiently, and with more resolution when it comes to implementing it with other variables.
 
People claim the transmission of a Lexus GS450h (~282lb) can do 1000hp in short bursts (https://www.diyelectriccar.com/threads/lexus-gs450h-transmission-to-a-mustang.204063/post-1065808), but I have never found supporting docs.

I wouldnt be able to comment, but I believe it.

Since e-motors apply full torque from the moment to the knee where back EMF is becoming greater than supply, you're looking for where the knee is and what the torque taper looks like beyond that. Over volting a motor while maintaining peak current pulls the knee higher into the rev range based on EMF. So a 480v tesla power train will knee at about 45mph, limiting it to XXX hp depending on model, now give it that same 500A current discharge at 800v, and the knee moves around 100 mph doubling the HP. There are dyno sheets that are out there where people say its not making peak torque until 30 mph wheel speed, and yeah, that is true of most any OEM EV, but its not the motor limiting the torque off the line, its the software. Tesla utilizes a ramp in torque rate, where the rate of torque increase/second is limited. You apply input to the throttle, and it ramps in to try to maintain traction. Remove that ramp rate, and you can hook two powertrains together and push them to full opposite torque at 0 rpm. They'll sit there and fight each other until one of them overheats the inverter.

The reason behind most manufacturers staying in the 320-480v systems is two fold, range and power electronics. Most OEM systems have decided to stay at lower voltages because the power electronics cant keep up with the heat.
 
My guess is that you don’t fully understand the inner workings of that gearbox. I’ve worked on something similar. So, let me see if I understand it well enough to explain it. From what I see, there’s a planetary set: sun, planets, ring, electric motor controlling the gear ratio by fixing or changing speed at which the planets revolve around the sun (input shaft), this controls speed and torque of the output shaft. With this setup, you have near infinite gear ratios. Meaning you can spin the input shaft in one direction, and spin the planets in either direction, taking this gearbox from a high reduction to an over driven gearbox by how fast (hard) and what direction you spin the planets. They have these set in preset stages, but as a torque amplifier, I think that with the right system you could potentially get a 1000hp with very little hp on the input shaft. The only limitation would be the transmission having high enough torque at high enough rpm to be able to cope with input at the speed and torque being fed into the transmission. So, get an idea of what tq it makes, and where it knees, and depending on voltage and control, you could probably find a way to get to that 1000hp number, and I don’t think it would be as big of an ordeal as you might guess.
 
Yeah I guess you right I don't know much about anything. Sure it makes 1000 hp .Of course Its not like you cant just read the spec anywhere. I said I wouldnt waste my time telling you why and now you see why.

facepalm_smiley.gif


Later....
 
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Just saying that I believe it to be possible, and why. If you’re able to find where the torque limitations of the gearbox’s motor arrangement are and where to place the rpm limits, you could be able to do do this. This gearbox has the capability to underdrive>overdrive at constantly variable ratios, and with the people involved, I’d venture to guess that it more powerful than you’d expect.
 
Im just saying Im done...
Im in the process of trying to get Mikep to remove my entire e thread because you all just dont want to listen to me and I guess even though Ive showed you the things I know and even offered you a look into how efficiency plays in . You insist that I don't know a thing . I know the reason so Ima just leave it alone. It's clear to me that the forum has only a set group of individuals that it wants to listen to. I cant waste my time with it. You don't know the value of the things I try to show you so I really hope mikep pulls it away. Its pretty insulting to have spent all the time I have with it and have someone tell me I don't know anything because they say it may be possible. I hate I shared anything and I'm going to stop doing that. Its pointless. When I heard 19 points of efficiency wont make much difference in the performance of an EV I should have cut my losses and just bugged out. Ya'll want to argue and throw ad hominem everything but listen to me so thats fine. Honestly there's an awfully lot of elementary questions in it from members that are now experts in this one. Its pretty amazing the view count of nothing. Thats the thanks I get...just take my knowledge 10,000 plus strong and tell me I'm stupid and what Im aware and not aware of at the same time. Thank you. I'm banning myself from here.

Its all yours
Peace.
 
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Im just saying Im done...

You bring ideas to the forum. Just like everyone else. Your ideas may be different and that doesn't make you right and everyone else wrong, and vice-versa. Believe it or not, it's OK for people to disagree with you.

There are a lot of people on this forum that have real-world experience with many of the concepts you discuss, including in this thread alone. In this community there tends to be a large gap where the theories and hypothesis don't match the actual result and for most people on this forum the results matter more than the ideas behind the result, and this really seems to bother you.

There hasn't been a single thread on this forum you've participated in that hasn't gone way off tangent because you take issue with anyone not agreeing with you or you think people aren't listening. You don't really seem to have any ability to play well with others and it tends to beg the question if you're a really talented troll, or if this is just how you are in real life.

Regardless, at some point you're going to have to accept that not everyone is as intelligent as you are. Not everyone is going to agree with you, and not everyone is going to accept your ideas. If that's not possible, then maybe group discussions aren't for you.
 
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