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G80 240 install

There was a (great big) G80 behind a LS (well, LQ4) engine in a 3/4 ton GMC work truck I had.

I hear they break if you put big tires on the truck and thrash on it though.
 
sim said:
Some people swap the G80 carrier, shims, bearings and all. It can
work. I've always swapped the shims and used new bearings.
Click to expand...

To clarify that, you are saying the shims from the removed diff should stay with the housing (be installed on the replacement diff) for best results?
 
^I would think so.

The original Volvo special tool that comes in the tool set to setup the diff can grab the inner race/shim and pull the bearings off the carrier.

I confess I don't buy new bearings if the old ones on the carrier look ok. I just recycle bearings and shims off of the diff that came out of the housing (as well as ring gear) and check lash.

I have a more generic bearing separator that is thin enough to get in there and grab the shim/inner race. Putting the diff in the freezer and bearings in the toaster oven makes reinstall very easy. Keep the shim/bearing on the same side.

The revs are pretty low on the carrier bearings. I've seen a damaged one here and there, and they do take some load, but it's rare to see damaged ones. Pinion and wheel bearings wear out faster in the axle all things considered.
 
Harry Tuttle said:
To clarify that, you are saying the shims from the removed diff should stay with the housing (be installed on the replacement diff) for best results?
Click to expand...

Yes, the shims stay with the axle.

But do check the backlash when you are done.


I have a generic bearing puller that tends to damage the bearings,
I'm jealous of the special Volvo tool.
 
With all that money you are spending on bearings that don't really wear out you could probably just buy a nicer bearing separator!

Has many uses!

In actual practice, differential carriers are really made to the same offsets and dimensions. Recycling the shims/bearings and ring gear and throwing it in there I've always been fine.

I don't mixie-match ring gears though, that is ballsy.
I'd guess 1031 housing shims don't really vary that much knowing volvo, I should measure my pile of shims from stripping axles sometime.
 
do all g80 have shims. I have removed 2 unit in the last yr. and I haven't seem one shim fall out. I've been very careful to make sure everything comes out????
 
wade454ss said:
do all g80 have shims. I have removed 2 unit in the last yr. and I haven't seem one shim fall out. I've been very careful to make sure everything comes out????
Click to expand...

I thought the same thing when I pulled apart my 1031... But the shims are BETWEEN the bearings and the carrier. They only come off when you pull the carrier bearings.
 
Kjets On a Plane said:
I have a more generic bearing separator that is thin enough to get in there and grab the shim/inner race. Putting the diff in the freezer and bearings in the toaster oven makes reinstall very easy. Keep the shim/bearing on the same side.
Click to expand...

Do you have a pic/link of the model you use? I have a Truetrack install coming up and want to use a puller for these bearings, not the air chisel like last time :-P
They have a very tight fit, feels like a lot of force is needed to remove them!
 
I've been wanting to do this same, well similar swap to my 84 242. I have a rear end from a 940 with the g80 in it. but instead of swapping internals, I wanted to swap the whole unit. I want the extra 1/2" on either side it gives. But i havent seen/ heard anyone who has done this swap.
 
Kjets On a Plane said:
With all that money you are spending on bearings that don't really wear out you could probably just buy a nicer bearing separator!
Click to expand...

Oh, tell me about it.

I picked up a beater South Bend lathe last summer, and I promised
myself that I would make a proper tool for pulling carrier
bearings.

Now winter is here, and my tires are on their last season, and
I'm just pissed off at the utter lack of traction, so I'm
swapping this one in the way I always have. New bearings aren't a
bad thing, except for the cost. And it's only fifty bucks. So far,
I've always done the swap on an old axle where new bearings
bring peace of mind.

The real burn was the second to last time, when I pinched a shim
and ruined a new bearing sorting that out. That sucked.

I'll make a tool by the time I can afford a Wavetrac, I promise.


do all g80 have shims. I have removed 2 unit in the last yr. and I haven't seem one shim fall out. I've been very careful to make sure everything comes out????
Click to expand...

The carrier shims certainly do not fall out. You need to pull the
bearings to remove them.
 
Spoon4364 said:
I've been wanting to do this same, well similar swap to my 84 242. I have a rear end from a 940 with the g80 in it. but instead of swapping internals, I wanted to swap the whole unit. I want the extra 1/2" on either side it gives. But i havent seen/ heard anyone who has done this swap.
Click to expand...

You can, but you will need to cut off all the brackets from both
axles and weld the 240 brackets onto the 940 axle.

And then sort out the brakes, parking and regular.

Most people who go to that trouble, swap in something more
robust.

I made a nice grinder stand out of an old 940 axle...
Grinder_stand.jpg
 
Kjets On a Plane said:
I'd just get the Finland or S.A.M. guts for the Dana LSD before buying a "wave-trac" or go find a ZF. I've only ever had 1 ZF LSD in over 10 years though. Drives so nice though.
Click to expand...

I have one of those diffs. It has a broken cross-thingy. Maybe
worse, I haven't opened it up yet. The G80 is mint, it's clean,
and it is sitting on the bench ready to go. Just needs the weight
welded down.

I hear they like to break. On the other hand, I drive it like I
own it, mostly. Haven't broken the M46 yet.

[Knocks loudly on wood] The T5 swap is literally in baskets and
not nearly ready to go.
 
There's a couple of cutouts in the housing to get a 2 jaw puller under the bearing, but the jaws will damage the shims.

The Volvo tool pulls the bearing without damaging the bearing or the shims. I don't normally loan tools, but I have a spare one of these, so I'd consider it.

CarrierBearingPuller.jpg
 
^That's the one.

My 2-jaw the faces basically go all the way around the shims and are very thin and nearly flat. It might bend the shims very slightly, but the contact part of the shim stays flat when you press it back on, so I don't worry about it whatever. YMMV.

But if you use the correct tool obviously you can remove and reinstall.
 
hiperfauto said:
There's a couple of cutouts in the housing to get a 2 jaw puller under the bearing, but the jaws will damage the shims.

The Volvo tool pulls the bearing without damaging the bearing or the shims. I don't normally loan tools, but I have a spare one of these, so I'd consider it.

(img)
Click to expand...

Thnx, yeah, I have been drooling over this tool for some time now, I can't seem to find one locally. Shipping it overseas is too much risk/$$ and Murphy follows me closely. Very clever design though, I like.
Does it grip the cones/rollers or the inner race? I expect the inner race but remember that there is very little clearance for that.

Kjets On a Plane said:
^That's the one.

My 2-jaw the faces basically go all the way around the shims and are very thin and nearly flat. It might bend the shims very slightly, but the contact part of the shim stays flat when you press it back on, so I don't worry about it whatever. YMMV.

But if you use the correct tool obviously you can remove and reinstall.
Click to expand...

Thnx James, I have a spare diff/G80 so I can check beforehand if a puller has the right arms. I might try to make a puller on the lathe, seems like it is do-able in little time (simple 2 piece thingie loosely based on the Volvo one but less elegant).

Oh and nice to know that usually old carrier bearings are fine, usually. Saves another 100$ (expensive here)
 
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