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B230+T5 3k rpm shake

Everything sticking out would have to go. Here's an overlap picture.
IMG-2001.jpg
oldschoolvolvo said:
Righto...I see what you are trying to do now :oops:

How much do you need to trim off of the bracket?
Click to expand...
 
I also thought about running screws into the rubber. Do you have experience with this, would it hold? I think if I trimmed the metal casing as is it would be pretty thin, I'm just hesitant to cut into it because it was $55 and I won't be able to return it. If I did this I would probably only have to lower the plate a few mm. Is it possible to hammer out the tunnel?
VB242 said:
What about either running some screws directly in to the rubber part or making your own strap out of a thin piece of flat bar?
Click to expand...
 
DavePolyakov said:
I also thought about running screws into the rubber. Do you have experience with this, would it hold? I think if I trimmed the metal casing as is it would be pretty thin, I'm just hesitant to cut into it because it was $55 and I won't be able to return it. If I did this I would probably only have to lower the plate a few mm. Is it possible to hammer out the tunnel?
Click to expand...

You are the pioneer sir, we're waiting to see what you come up with. I don't think it weaken it too much at stock power levels if you cut down the metal part. I'm pretty sure that part fits an F150 which would get a lot more torque put though it.
 
I'm not sure your skill level, but...what about taking some 1/8"x2" flat stock, bend it to match the curve of the bearing, and use that as a retainer? That would allow you to secure it still. Or, just for starters, pull the rubber from the retainer on the spicer, set it on top of the plate, see if that will fit in the tunnel without the metal for starters. That should also give you an idea what you're looking at for working room.
 
This is as far as I got tonight. It's still not clearing the tunnel, the retainer is so wide that the bolts are interfering on the frame, even though I drilled new holes as close together as possible. I had to do a lot of hammering in the tunnel and will do more tomorrow. It's contacting in the tunnel as well as the bolts on the frame. I don't know if I can grind it down anymore. It is a very tight fit in the 740 tunnel. The retainer clamps down on the rubber housing securing everything, so if I made my own retainer I would need to make sure the bolt holes are slightly below the rubber if that makes sense. Otherwise, it will move around excessively. I will try to make my own retainer if I can't get the stock one to fit somehow.
IMG-2002.jpg
 
I think rounded head screws will help, but there will still be a gap because the bracket itself will contact the frame even if the bolts weren't present. Theoretically, I could tighten the plate and it would squeeze the bracket to the frame, but I doubt this would actually hold up under any driving. I'll try the rounded head screws and then slightly drop the plate and it will fit. Hopefully, it isn't dropped too much where it makes it difficult to achieve proper driveline angles, that's my main concern.

VB242 said:
What about something like this on top with the nuts on the bottom?
McMaster-Carr Page:
https://www.mcmaster.com/Screws/hex-drive-rounded-head-screws
Click to expand...
 
If you were to DIY the frame around it, fold the tabs under the bearing carrier, and trim just a touch of the rubber on the corners, that would alleviate the bolt issue entirely. It still wouldn't help with tunnel clearance though. Another thought...if you trimmed the rubber up and over the top, just the outer layer to the first set of reliefs, that would allow for more tunnel clearance, you'd still maintain one set of reliefs, then DIY the metal frame like I mentioned, that just might do it.

Something else I just thought about. There's 2 different carrier plates. The 960's had a rubber isolated one, that dropped the plate down from the frame about 1/4", and used rubber mounts, kinda like the rubber inserts on the fuel pump carrier. I wonder if that would give you enough clearance for all of it?
 
I think I will bend the stock frame around the rubber and trim the rubber. If I mutilate the stock frame too much then I will have to make my own. About the 960 carrier plate, If I just dropped the stock 740 with washers would have the same effect?

gsellstr said:
If you were to DIY the frame around it, fold the tabs under the bearing carrier, and trim just a touch of the rubber on the corners, that would alleviate the bolt issue entirely. It still wouldn't help with tunnel clearance though. Another thought...if you trimmed the rubber up and over the top, just the outer layer to the first set of reliefs, that would allow for more tunnel clearance, you'd still maintain one set of reliefs, then DIY the metal frame like I mentioned, that just might do it.

Something else I just thought about. There's 2 different carrier plates. The 960's had a rubber isolated one, that dropped the plate down from the frame about 1/4", and used rubber mounts, kinda like the rubber inserts on the fuel pump carrier. I wonder if that would give you enough clearance for all of it?
Click to expand...
 
These are a little thick at 5/8" but would give you enough room
McMaster-Carr Page:
https://www.mcmaster.com/Vibration-Damping-Sandwich-Mounts/metric-general-purpose-vibration-damping-sandwich-mounts-with-studs/thread-size~m10/
 
Got it to fit. My washers stacked to 11/32 inches or ~9mm. In the picture, it looks like there is a little more height available but I can assure you there is not. I'm pretty sure it's slightly contacting in places or has less than 2mm clearance. You can still see there's a little space before the bolts would have contacted the frame. The retainer is just a little too big for the tunnel. I did some more hammering but kind of had enough, don't think I could get much further anyways, and I grinded the retainer as far down as possible. Hoping it doesn't make any noise contacting in the tunnel during driving.
IMG-2018.jpg
 
I need to get the front driveshaft shortened at the driveshaft shop and they will remove the old bearing and install this one. I was having a real difficulty removing the old one, I'm sure they can do it much easier with their hydraulic press.
 
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Just got home after dropping off my driveshaft and new support bearing at the shop. I'm a little concerned, the diameter of the front shaft is 2 inches, but the ID of the Spicer bearing is 1.77 inches. This is also the size of the bearing IPD says should fit these shafts. Is the diameter a little bit smaller where the bearing sits? Will it fit?
 
DavePolyakov said:
Just got home after dropping off my driveshaft and new support bearing at the shop. I'm a little concerned, the diameter of the front shaft is 2 inches, but the ID of the Spicer bearing is 1.77 inches. This is also the size of the bearing IPD says should fit these shafts. Is the diameter a little bit smaller where the bearing sits? Will it fit?
Click to expand...
It should
 
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