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T5 trans into my 95 945T - Project thread

ed945t

New member
Joined
Feb 28, 2008
Location
So Cal
I posted some pics the other day but the title was misleading. I am installing the T5 into my car and I will try and up date the thread as I go. I read all the threads I could find and there is a lot of great info on this swap, I will try and add a little update for the 7/9 cars, hopefully in the area of the shifter, trans mount and drive shaft.

I spent two slow days getting the AW71 out, its heavy! I had done the clutch on a 740 and the M46 is much lighter (so is the T5). Also, there are many more connections,lines and linkages on the automatic. Once I got it down, it started leaking all over the place and me!

Today I started at the flex plate, lined up #1 at TDC and the gap on the timing ring was in the lower half of the starter hole, right where it should be. Got it off, found a nice surprise, the rear main seal is bone dry, I'm not going to change it.

Installed the dogdish flywheel with the gap in the same place, bolts lined up fine, torqued to 50ft/lb.

I slid the trans in for a mock up for the shifter and the drive shaft. It lined up right, the input shaft sits in the pilot bearing when I tightened it down. I will have time to do the clutch next week when the drive shaft is at the shop being shortened.
 

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Shifter

I lined up the engine/trans to the original height so I could sort out the shifter. I had seen some different solutions but I didn't know what to expect. I have a "Slik Stik" shifter that brings the shift lever 31" rear of the bell housing front face. That puts me right in the center of the opening, but when I got the correct height, the shift stub hits the tunnel in front of the opening. The middle of the shift box on my T5 is +-26" from the bell housing face.

I had to cut out a 2" - 3" piece to allow movement into all the gears. Its still pretty tight but I am going to recess the top of the shift stub tomorrow and I think the trans is a little high anyway. I won't know for sure until I get the drive shaft back.

Good news is the relay tray looks like it will stay in its original position. I can shift to 1st, 3rd, 5th gears without interference.
 

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trans mount fabrication

Got the drive shaft back with the ford yoke on it. Had a friend come over and fab in the trans mount. We opted to go with the Volvo tans mount and move the cross member into the centr set of holes. I have seen the ford trans mount and the cut and boxed cross member, my friend suggested we leave the cross member intact.

first, we lined up the drive shaft in original position. Next we used 1" angle iron cut and drilled to the T5 mount flange. A 3/16" piece of metal bolted on the trans mount similar to the OE one. Next, we cut another piece of angle iron to lay on the flat plate and mate with the piece hanging from the trans. Both pieces must be trimmed at an angle to fit, and we have a nice long bead inside and out for strength. Now we have a "U" shaped bracket that is probably strong enough. For over kill, we cut two pieces and boxed in the U around the trans mount bolt. Actually pretty easy and the piece is very strong.

After I got it in, I missed one thing, I have to relieve the bottom edges a bit to clear the bolts that hold the rubber mount in the cross member. So it all comes out tomorrow to trim!
 

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Is there going to be enough clearance for that shifter extension to move around?

Looks to me like the tail end of your trans is a few inches too low in that shifter pic. Having installed one of these in my 740 I can tell you that you might have some driveline vibration problems with the trans that low. I assume you are doing a 2 piece? Some adjustable torque arms might be necessary for smooth running.


James
 
shifter

Yes, its a two piece. I measured the center mount plate and the front section of the drive shaft with a plum bob at several points before I took it out. Then I put it back at the same height before we fabbed the mount. Its right at the original position. I measured several points on the motor as well and they checked out when I re installed everything. The stub on my shifter is shorter than most that I have seen, that might make it look like the trans is lower.

Ed
 
clutch

I put the clutch lines in and bled it up. There is no play in the throw out bearing or fork, however, it is not tensioned against the PP. Seems to work as described by others. The D shaft will release and spin when the pedal is pushed about half way in. I can row it thru all the gears with plenty of clearance for the lever.
 
Up and running

I haven't been on for a few days. It took a lot longer to start but I finally got it finished. The shifter works and I did not have to modify the fuse panel area. The drive shaft came out right, with no vibrations, and the hydraulic clutch works well. I went to a 9" disc and p/plate as my flywheel is 9 and the smaller one wouldn't fit. I'm still working with the shift lever to get the right position, I heat it up and bend it a little here and there to get the right feel. I have a boot from a mustang that I am going to try and get a finished look. Next up will be something to lighten that flywheel! Launches are easy but I can really feel all that mass when I put my foot in it.

Ed
 

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Thank you. This is a huge help. I've been searching around for this (700/900 series). I have a t5 trans. I'm gathering all the part needed for swap. I definitely need that shifter
 
The twelve year bump. :lol:

It's probably easier in the 7/9 series, but I always install the bell housing with adapter first in my 240, then install the trans since the bolts are on the outside, so it's easily bolted to the adapter once the bell housing is installed. It makes for less weight to pick up, and in a 240, it's much easier to install this way because the bell housing is a tight fit near the starter.

Just my observation from the photos. ;-)
 
Thank you. This is a huge help. I've been searching around for this (700/900 series). I have a t5 trans. I'm gathering all the part needed for swap. I definitely need that shifter

The twelve year bump. :lol:

It's probably easier in the 7/9 series, but I always install the bell housing with adapter first in my 240, then install the trans since the bolts are on the outside, so it's easily bolted to the adapter once the bell housing is installed. It makes for less weight to pick up, and in a 240, it's much easier to install this way because the bell housing is a tight fit near the starter.

Just my observation from the photos. ;-)



I envy you guys so much. Last year I started to put together parts and a plan for a T5 Tremec. Sadly, I scrapped the plan, picked up a used (low mile) aw71, modified the accumulators, put in a extra trans cooler, swapped it in and flushed through 20+ quarts of Mobil 1 ATF! (Been perfect, hits hard and takes abuse well) BUT I so miss and regret not spending the time and effort to convert to manual!

Maybe one day... ;-)

Nice work guys, take care and thanks for all the info!
 
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