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Old 11-11-2021, 08:45 PM   #4
Kjets On a Plane
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Californicated Oregone
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^Pretty much?
Good luck.

Also, be sure to get the correct release bearing for whichever style clutch release arm/fork you wind up with or pedal set.

Some are constant contact, some release bearings are not constant contact design (up to ~1980 on the L.H.D adjustable cable clutch cars/no contact spring on those pedal boxes on the -1980 gas 4 banger cars (you can add the spring to the pedal tho...pedal box and pedal is same otherwise)) & have the silly return spring on the clutch release arm to the trans mount bracket hole.

The non-constant contact earlier release bearings don't last as long & likely volvo just wanted 1 part/design as RHD cars are self adjusting hydraulic, 700T are self adjusting constant contact hydraulic as were 260; save some money, inventory fewer parts going forward, less labor time for dealer techs to inspect/adjust things all the time for the return spring design/earlier stuff.

If your pedal box is 81+ with the spring to wind the clutch pedal toward the floor, just install the correct type constant contact bearing, if your clutch release arm is ~85+ it uses the 'clip in' style base.

Stack heights to the clutch release arm from the end of the crankshaft are the same for new clutches whether 'flat' fywheel & OEM sachs 218mm clutch kit or 'dished' style flywheel & its respective clutch kit.

I find the dished flywheel more awkward to drive in most situations and extremely heavy with the stump puller first gear, but I do like the more forgiving engagement with lighter spring pressure or pedal pressure & don't really hurry anywhere anymore.

For a DD, the dished flywheel can be nice to use lower RPMs like a tractor and crawl out of off angle driveways in hilly slippery (but not snowy) areas with a lot of weight on the car loaded heavy with the OE wagon size tires & 3.54 gears & the torquier mild cammed SOHC redblocks as the factory intended for ease of use or a lutheran swedish family with the car loaded down...

OD wiring and switches and knobs vary somewhat over the years.
The 1981+ momentary switch & relay sure is convenient/intuitive...when it works...
The OD lamp should be present in all 1973+ clusters IIRC, even 92-93 though pin numberings vary slightly as does fuse # as the years rolled on.

You probably will have to trace to the cluster but the harness is stand-alone.
The 1981+ momentary harnesses are all rot prone...not such a big deal in the cabin side and like most all 240 harnesses it's an overlay harness/its own thing.
Fishing the sub harness in the lever to repair it when abused is tricky.
Knobs wear out or crack in the case of the -'80 slider switch type (which is awkward to use and I hate and british).
Volvo sold an aluminum plug with an o-ring groove for the speedo gear output if your trans comes from a cable speedometer donor prior to ''85. Or leave it exposed to possibly get damaged or have seals to leak? IIRC the speedo cable holds the hat seal in place...so you seal it with sealant or cut/hack the perfectly good speedometer cable itself to screw it onto the cable output?
Or swap the tail housing to one without speedo gear output on the M46 from a 700 or '86 240 w/od (swap with care, that's some delicate british crap with hard to find parts that can be easily damaged/thin tempermental british aluminum castings prone to leak).

Tunnel wiring is almost all rotten by now and lazily thrown over the sharp edge of the shifter hole with the cheap 240 clip-on boot with the carpet then thrown over that as they were lazily halfass manufacturing these cars, instead of a proper trans tunnel grommet or longer higher quality wires running down the firewall like the 140s had. Refresh, find NOS updated or come up with something better or replicate, up to you if using an M46.

M47 only reverse lamp wiring and the neutral safety switch bypass loop for the auto-tragic.
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Last edited by Kjets On a Plane; 11-11-2021 at 09:00 PM..
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