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Clutch type LSD options for dana diff?

culberro said:
Are you worried about noise or performance?
In "low" preload clutch LSDs, there's no noise to be heard.
High preload race diffs will make some clunk/pops in tight slow turns as the plates "stick-slip-stick". You can usually add more "LSD additive" until this quiets down.
Click to expand...

Noise, really. I made some really nice improvements in the rear end last year and got rid of a lot of clunking and clomping. I don't want to put something in for a performance increase but have to listen to something chattering or clanking away every time I turn into a driveway.

I drive the car <1,000 miles a year by a good margin, and every year it's torn down for something anyways so maintenance is of no concern to me. Just always trying to hit the sweet spot as much as I can; the car makes a lot of power and I drive it hard, but it's still a street car that will only see the track once or twice a year on a good year (Lime Rock, I doubt I'll ever bring the car to a drag strip or anything). I've had my credit card ready for a few months I just can't decide where the sweet spot is between truetrac > wavetrac > gripper (as the apparently readily available options).

I'm coming from a locked g80 so everything is an improvement. I just like to spend all my money at once and avoid rework.
 
I'd go for a gripper setup for fast road or light track, which would be minimal preload and decent ramps to get the LSD working under drive torque or load.
"Road soft" or "Road/Trackday" is what they call it.
These are setup with lower preload and a "1 or 1.5 way" ramp (I hate that 1,1.5, 2-way lingo!).
You can also email them and they can tell you what would be a quieter diff setup as well.

If you're running an electric speedo on the diff, you'll need the outer part of the housing machined down for a tone-ring to be added.
 
culberro said:
I'd go for a gripper setup for fast road or light track, which would be minimal preload and decent ramps to get the LSD working under drive torque or load.
"Road soft" or "Road/Trackday" is what they call it.
These are setup with lower preload and a "1 or 1.5 way" ramp (I hate that 1,1.5, 2-way lingo!).
You can also email them and they can tell you what would be a quieter diff setup as well.

If you're running an electric speedo on the diff, you'll need the outer part of the housing machined down for a tone-ring to be added.
Click to expand...

thanks this is helpful information. I am running a late year 1031 with the pickup in the diff so this is good to know. I thought of something in the garage the other day I wanted to ask you about, but I can't remember it now...

Dr. Kaplan I'll be in your inbox soon to ask thoughts on getting me set up with a fitting unit.
 
blkaplan said:
what did i miss? :-P
Click to expand...

More carnage pics from #5... no, I'll leave you alone for once. 8)

I thought I saw the Flying Moose in a couple of PittRace clips, but closer inspection showed it was driving the wrong wheels. So, no asking around about how the diff saga was progressing.
 
DrZiplok said:
More carnage pics from #5... no, I'll leave you alone for once. 8)

I thought I saw the Flying Moose in a couple of PittRace clips, but closer inspection showed it was driving the wrong wheels. So, no asking around about how the diff saga was progressing.
Click to expand...

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Volvo 850, had minor coolant-level troubles at start, then ran great second day, best-handling FWD ever w big front wheels/tires. BNE Dynamics Volvo suspension specialist Ben Kaplan built this unique racer.
Click to expand...

Pretty proud of that, he's driven a lot of high dollar factory setup fwd race cars.
 
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