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1987 244 DL Autocrosser

Test drive was a success. After adjusting the new clutch cable, I put a piece of rubber hose over the threaded metal sheathing and tightened 3 small clamps over the hose. This is to keep it from self-adjusting. The pedal feels better than before...it's smoother through the whole range of travel (obviously). Also, pedal effort has been reduced, which I was hoping for based on what Bne experienced.

Swapped the front bars between cars, so the '87 has the 21 now and the DD '92 has the 28. Quite a weight savings there... :lol:

Drove the car to work today, too. This car corners like a snake in a rat hole.

Can you snap a picture of what you did to the adjuster? I feel like mine is self adjusting... and its annoying!
 
Can you snap a picture of what you did to the adjuster? I feel like mine is self adjusting... and its annoying!
You can put a small hose clamp behind the adjuster(make sure you screw it all the way in, obviously, it's a tapered fit so that needs to be as tight as possible to lock it in place, I use big pliers to tighten mine) and tighten it down on the metal casing to keep things from moving.
 
Old clevis pin and new. Nice wear pattern, eh? I need to inspect the pedal and swap it out if it's got an oval shaped hole in it now. The end of the old cable was slight ovaled. I removed the original (broken) clutch cable and installed a brand new Volvo brand Made in Germany cable with the metal outer sheathing. Far superior to the aftermarket cable.

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Those three little hose clamps in a row are around a piece of hose cut lengthwise. The sheathing will want to rotate and go towards the back of the car, so this hopefully stops it from rotating. I adjust the cable until there's not much free play at the fork when I pull it back (pulling the cable out). Maybe 1/4". I used to have to get in and try it out first, but now I just set it and forget it. The pedal feels firm until right near the end of the travel near the floor where it gets a little easier. Like pulling back on a bow.

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The other side features a washer with a slot cut in the side to slip over the cable. Works great, but I found out my new OEM replacement came in today, so I'll replace this when I do the T5 swap.

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Towery's 244:
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^

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Oil temp. The wire always fell off when it was on the bottom, plus it gets cracked/broken on a low car. So when we did the motor, I requested the addition of a 3/4-16 nut on the side so I never have to remove the temp sender drain plug.
 
yeap, and it does sound good. send the head off yet to kenny? you know you wanna get it hogged out by heeb'.
 
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