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Rotating distributer and keeping timing

BeaverMeat

BeaverMeat

Active member
Joined
Aug 8, 2020
Location
Vancouver Island
May sound like a goofy question... the distributer on my EFI small block Ford need to be rotated 45* counter-clockwise. I’m having the classic overheating/heatsoaked TFI module problem because the module is in the wrong position and is starting to burn out.

Is there any easy way to rotate the distributer and keep the timing?

Best I can come up with is to clock the distributer and re-wire the plugs.
 
Got a picture of what's going on? Is the module really close to the intake and getting hot?

You can re-stab the dizzy and then reset your timing if you need to rotate it.

If the TFI is getting hot and crapping out, the best thing you can do is move the TFI to the fender onto a small heat sink.
 
culberro said:
Got a picture of what's going on? Is the module really close to the intake and getting hot?

You can re-stab the dizzy and then reset your timing if you need to rotate it.

If the TFI is getting hot and crapping out, the best thing you can do is move the TFI to the fender onto a small heat sink.
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Yeah. That?s the problem. Can?t get a pic right now but the connector is right up against the hose. From factory it?s in a crap spot anyways. Never had a problem till the rebuild.

That plan is to relocate... but I want it turned away from the thermostat housing as much as possible
 
That's super easy to do.
Just mark where the rotor is pointing at on the body. Then lift up the distributor and rotate the rotor one tooth, then push it back down and align the rotor to your mark. Repeat as needed.
Then double check your timing: Pull the SPOUT connector, and set the timing to 10deg BTDC with a timing light. Reinstall the SPOUT, you're good to go.
 
Yeah. I ain?t got a timing light.

To be extra accurate I may need to rig-up an alignment apparatus with some string on the rotor and body.

This does fit the thread as it?s a project. Doing a complete overhaul under the hood.

Today I managed to grab some parts from the only k-jet type Turbo car in Chapman?s yard.
 
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BeaverMeat said:
Yeah. I ain’t got a timing light.

To be extra accurate I may need to rig-up an alignment apparatus with some string on the rotor and body.

This does fit the thread as it’s a project. Doing a complete overhaul under the hood.

Today I managed to grab some parts from the only k-jet type Turbo car in Chapman’s yard.
Click to expand...

A cheap inductive timing light is like $30 usd on Amazon... you should definitely have one. Or use a neighbors timing light. This isn't something you can usually guess at and get right unless you've done it many many times before.
 
BeaverMeat said:
Yeah. I ain?t got a timing light.

To be extra accurate I may need to rig-up an alignment apparatus with some string on the rotor and body.

This does fit the thread as it?s a project. Doing a complete overhaul under the hood.

Today I managed to grab some parts from the only k-jet type Turbo car in Chapman?s yard.
Click to expand...

:doh:
 
BeaverMeat said:
lol

I?m not too experienced with distributors. This thing has a plug-in thing too. Google ahoy!
Click to expand...

I just told you how to set the timing on a TFI V8 Ford engine.
It?s so simple!!!!

Go get a timing light and reposition the distributor!!!!
 
I know, I know. I don’t even know what the advance is... hopefully it’s still marked. Will have to find TDC and go from there.

Yes... I’m a cheap @ss and proud of it. I just hate buying something for one job and never use it again.
 
BeaverMeat said:
I know, I know. I don’t even know what the advance is... hopefully it’s still marked. Will have to find TDC and go from there.

Yes... I’m a cheap @ss and proud of it. I just hate buying something for one job and never use it again.
Click to expand...

You pull the SPOUT connector and set the timing to 10deg advance. Shut car off, reinstall SPOUT, and you're good to go.

SPOUT = Spark Output. When removed it takes the ECU advance out of the equation and allows you to set the base timing..... which is 10deg!

Also, if you're TFI dies you can pull the SpOut and set timing to like ~28deg and just run locked out timing. I've killed a few TFIs at the track or at drift days, this is a ghetto fix that lets you continue on.

66251d1239287676-battery-issues-1993-mustang-spout-connector-location.jpg
 
Quick question before I have at it.

Is pulling out the distributer necessary? Was thinking of it’s just rotating it 45* counter-clockwise and moving the plug two spots clockwise then checking the timing. Should be exactly where it needs to be so less fiddling around with it.
 
Nope.
I thought you could for a quick second, but then the spark timing would be off as the sensor wheel is directly tied to the shaft and body of the distributor.

So yo need to re-stab the dizzy. It's sooooooo easy to do! I think it's a 13mm or 1/2" (maybe 7/16?) socket or wrench.
 
I guess I got to be captain stabbin. Double checked and this thing is clocked to OE spec. What a crap design. lol

Hopefully this helps it out so I can get some RPMs under load to finally finish the break-in.

I got to order a re-locate kit. Thinking the FatFox kit. Oi. I’m going to need a weekend to organize the engine bay.
 
Heads up, the wiring harness is a disaster from Ford. The grounds are just stripped, twisted together, and wrapped in butyl rubber.
 
culberro said:
Heads up, the wiring harness is a disaster from Ford. The grounds are just stripped, twisted together, and wrapped in butyl rubber.
Click to expand...

Oh, I’ve become quite acquainted with it over the last few weeks. Fortunately the Ford to Volvo splicing is at a minimal. There is a major overhaul needed to clean it up that’s for sure. Crap crammed everywhere. Take the upper intake off and go to town
 
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