240 small clock repair

vegasbrick · 03-05-2010, 04:54 PM

Does anyone know of a write-up on repairing the small clock? This would be the dash mounted one that hooks to the tech on the cluster. I searched maintenance & nonperformance threads and did not find anything about repair.

Thanks in advance.

cleanflametrap · 03-05-2010, 05:03 PM

Don't saw the case like I did. Just peel the rolled rim carefully - the wrinkles will be hidden by the plastic bezel.

Get a couple radial lead 100 microfarad capacitors 16V or above (Radio Shack?)

Unsolder the old dried out caps and solder the new ones. It will run in the cold now!

I also tried to improve the lighting a bit: http://cleanflametrap.com/clock2.html

Even if you've never plugged in a soldering iron, this one's a shoe in.

vlvman · 03-05-2010, 05:10 PM

Don't forget to pay attention to the polarity of the caps.

vegasbrick · 03-05-2010, 08:28 PM

Thanks guys. Nice site there cleanflametrap.

dbarton · 03-05-2010, 11:44 PM

That's a great repair write up. I have a couple dead clocks I'm gonna try this on.
Dave

volvo245kit · 03-06-2010, 12:14 AM

FWIW, I repaired 5 dead clocks with caps that I got from a local electronics guy and the new caps didn't have any polarity markings on them. I asked the guy and he said that it didn't matter. So I went ahead and soldered them all in and put them back together and they all worked. Go figure.

vlvman · 03-06-2010, 12:29 AM

Non polarized caps, some are some aren't.

Volvox_240 · 03-06-2010, 12:36 AM

My clock only keeps time when the car is on. Is this the case for all 240s, or is mine wearing out? I saw this thread and had to ask! Thanks for the info

dbarton · 03-06-2010, 03:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Volvox_240

My clock only keeps time when the car is on. Is this the case for all 240s, or is mine wearing out? I saw this thread and had to ask! Thanks for the info

If you're clock is getting voltage when the key is off like it should, you might check your battery flat voltage... do this with car off after it has been sitting for 4 or 5 hours. A good battery at 100% should read about 12.6v. If it's 12.2v or lower, your battery is dying and it putting out less than 25% of normal capacity. Just a guess, but possibly that could shut off a voltage sensitive clock.

the_hairy_baboon · 06-06-2022, 11:03 PM

Thread bump, just got my clock open (scraped with utility blade and pick until could get under the bezel and then small flatheads to lever it up. Unsoldered the ground connection from the copper {\phi} and got the circuit board and mechanicals out.

Questions:

1. Inside white matte paint is kinda thin. I could pull the bulb, mask off, and spray the inside with a brighter matter (I assume not glossy since that would be less even). Is there anything to look for in a spray paint to do this?
2. Would I gain benefit from also painting the backside of the front glass holding cone? Not worth the tape masking effort?
3. Anyone need any pictures of the insides or schematics? Can't see the main chip but can trace what all is connected to it.
4. Bulb replacement - current bulb is working, but it's been over a decade since cleanflametrap's LED experiment. I'm thinking there's more variety to be found that's potentially brighter too. Has anyone experimented with this?

dbarton · 06-07-2022, 07:35 AM

I wrote an article about this here when I did this: https://www.240turbo.com/240gaugewiring.html#LED
and here: https://www.240turbo.com/240gaugewir...ml#clockrepair
Dave

the_hairy_baboon · 06-07-2022, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dbarton

I wrote an article about this here when I did this: https://www.240turbo.com/240gaugewiring.html#LED
and here: https://www.240turbo.com/240gaugewir...ml#clockrepair
Dave

ah, excellent links. I think I browsed them months ago but forgot the details.

Any thoughts on the repainting of the insides? http://cleanflametrap.com/clock2.html mentions white matte finish for light dispersal, but nothing of redoing it.

the_hairy_baboon · 06-15-2022, 10:34 PM

Alright, excellent advice here.

1. Replaced the two 100uF capacitors (even after checking polarity accidentally put one in backwards, so had to switch orientation)
2. Got the yellow version of the LEDs in dbarton's link (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0798Q4RRC), provides much better surround lighting without being blinding white like a white LED might be.

Any good suggestions for ways to roll the black bezel rim back on enough so it won't rattle? Just press it in a few spots so it won't move? I loathe electrical tape for it since it'll become sticky pretty fast.

philski o'flood · 06-16-2022, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by the_hairy_baboon

Any good suggestions for ways to roll the black bezel rim back on enough so it won't rattle?

follow the 914 link from DBs site. The guy crimped the bezel back great. I use a wide short blade screw driver and keep pressing and rotating

03-05-2010, 04:54 PM	#1
vegasbrick Board Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Las Vegas, NV	small clock repair Does anyone know of a write-up on repairing the small clock? This would be the dash mounted one that hooks to the tech on the cluster. I searched maintenance & nonperformance threads and did not find anything about repair. Thanks in advance. __________________ Feedback Thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=208751 Volvos owned: 87 244 - Sold 86 245 - Sold 79 244 - Sold 83 242 - Sold 90 245 - Sold

03-05-2010, 05:10 PM	#3
vlvman Board Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Jefferson City, MO	Don't forget to pay attention to the polarity of the caps. __________________ Robert http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/ 82 244DL, 2004 S60R AWD, 2008 S40 GF's Had: 77 242 DL, 80 242 DL, 82 245 DL, 89 740 GL, 94 850T, 95 850 GL, and a 02 S60 2.4T

03-05-2010, 11:44 PM	#5
dbarton Dejected by Volvo Corp. Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: North of Dallas	That's a great repair write up. I have a couple dead clocks I'm gonna try this on. Dave __________________ '84 242ti, fourth owner, mine since 2003. Garaged since new. Old-school rounds because. B21FT, EMS: SDS EFI & IGN, TD04HL-15G turbo, T5Z trans with 0.73 OD, 3.91 diff, unmodified G80. Volvo's Ambivalence of Volvo Enthusiast Community: prancingmoose.com/#novolvo Dave's Volvo Page: davebarton.com 240 Mods and Fixes Pages: 240turbo.com/volvo240mods.html

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03-05-2010, 05:03 PM	#2
cleanflametrap Board Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: near baltimore	Don't saw the case like I did. Just peel the rolled rim carefully - the wrinkles will be hidden by the plastic bezel. Get a couple radial lead 100 microfarad capacitors 16V or above (Radio Shack?) Unsolder the old dried out caps and solder the new ones. It will run in the cold now! I also tried to improve the lighting a bit: http://cleanflametrap.com/clock2.html Even if you've never plugged in a soldering iron, this one's a shoe in.

03-05-2010, 08:28 PM	#4
vegasbrick Board Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Las Vegas, NV	Thanks guys. Nice site there cleanflametrap.

03-06-2010, 12:14 AM	#6
volvo245kit Board Member Join Date: May 2008	FWIW, I repaired 5 dead clocks with caps that I got from a local electronics guy and the new caps didn't have any polarity markings on them. I asked the guy and he said that it didn't matter. So I went ahead and soldered them all in and put them back together and they all worked. Go figure.

03-06-2010, 12:29 AM	#7
vlvman Board Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Jefferson City, MO	Non polarized caps, some are some aren't.

03-06-2010, 12:36 AM	#8
Volvox_240 Board Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Fargo, ND	My clock only keeps time when the car is on. Is this the case for all 240s, or is mine wearing out? I saw this thread and had to ask! Thanks for the info

06-06-2022, 11:03 PM	#10
the_hairy_baboon Board Member Join Date: Dec 2021	Thread bump, just got my clock open (scraped with utility blade and pick until could get under the bezel and then small flatheads to lever it up. Unsoldered the ground connection from the copper {\phi} and got the circuit board and mechanicals out. Questions: 1. Inside white matte paint is kinda thin. I could pull the bulb, mask off, and spray the inside with a brighter matter (I assume not glossy since that would be less even). Is there anything to look for in a spray paint to do this? 2. Would I gain benefit from also painting the backside of the front glass holding cone? Not worth the tape masking effort? 3. Anyone need any pictures of the insides or schematics? Can't see the main chip but can trace what all is connected to it. 4. Bulb replacement - current bulb is working, but it's been over a decade since cleanflametrap's LED experiment. I'm thinking there's more variety to be found that's potentially brighter too. Has anyone experimented with this?

06-07-2022, 07:35 AM	#11
dbarton Dejected by Volvo Corp. Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: North of Dallas	I wrote an article about this here when I did this: https://www.240turbo.com/240gaugewiring.html#LED and here: https://www.240turbo.com/240gaugewir...ml#clockrepair Dave

06-15-2022, 10:34 PM	#13
the_hairy_baboon Board Member Join Date: Dec 2021	Alright, excellent advice here. 1. Replaced the two 100uF capacitors (even after checking polarity accidentally put one in backwards, so had to switch orientation) 2. Got the yellow version of the LEDs in dbarton's link (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0798Q4RRC), provides much better surround lighting without being blinding white like a white LED might be. Any good suggestions for ways to roll the black bezel rim back on enough so it won't rattle? Just press it in a few spots so it won't move? I loathe electrical tape for it since it'll become sticky pretty fast.