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Old 05-28-2022, 04:24 PM   #26
John242Ti
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It's also possible that the door hinge is just too worn out. Is there any slop if you try to lift the door up while it's partially open? Not a hard fix, just have to use a floor jack under the door, then remove the kick panel, move the fuse block out of the way, and replace the hinge. I need to do that on my 242.
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Old 05-28-2022, 10:28 PM   #27
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It's also possible that the door hinge is just too worn out. Is there any slop if you try to lift the door up while it's partially open? Not a hard fix, just have to use a floor jack under the door, then remove the kick panel, move the fuse block out of the way, and replace the hinge. I need to do that on my 242.
There's the tiniest amount of play when lifting the door when its opened just past the striker. Would that still be a factor if the door is easy to close and level with the front fender and the rear door?

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Old 06-08-2022, 09:19 PM   #28
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Update in case anybody else is fighting this as well: I pulled the door and found that the bottom hinge had a ridiculous amount of play in in it. I replaced the lower hinge with the best one in my collection. I rehung the door and I was able to get the door aligned better and faster than I could with the old hinge. The gap between the back of the fender and the front of the door are much closer to being even but the door needs to come forward a tad. Hopefully this will translate into a door that seals better. Failing that, I might attempt to ream the worn out hinges that I pulled so they can accommodate a hinge pin from GM vehicles. Dorman sells a hinge pin for GM vehicles that could potentially be used as an “oversized” hinge pin with some modifications so I might try that out if the hinge that I currently have in the car doesn’t work out.
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Old 06-08-2022, 09:45 PM   #29
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No 87+ wind-lace mouldings across the top of the doors?
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Old 06-08-2022, 10:23 PM   #30
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No 87+ wind-lace mouldings across the top of the doors?
I actually just replaced the outer seal and inner seal with fresh, brand new OEM seals a couple of weeks ago.
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Old 06-08-2022, 11:32 PM   #31
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Put masking tape around the perimeter of the driver door or at least some sections, get in from the pass side and drive- if the noise is not gone then it's not the door. May be the mirror. I added inner seal to my '76 and it made the big difference.
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Old 06-09-2022, 01:56 PM   #32
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Put masking tape around the perimeter of the driver door or at least some sections, get in from the pass side and drive- if the noise is not gone then it's not the door. May be the mirror. I added inner seal to my '76 and it made the big difference.
I taped up the gap between the window frame and the body temporarily and the noise did stop. I also modified an mechanics stethoscope to find drafts and the wind noise is definitely coming from the gap between the window frame and the car body. I was hoping it was the window channel seal or the window not going up all the way but that wasn’t the case. I also taped up the mirror and that made no difference either. I’m hoping to see if replacing the hinges helped but it doesn’t look like I’ll be able to mess with it today.
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Old 06-09-2022, 02:22 PM   #33
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The window frames can bend slightly with age, and they don't preload the seals as much.

You can easily yank the window frame in a few mm and preload the seals and stop the leaks. This also keeps the lower section of the doors and fenders aligned. Just pretend you're working on the Yugo assembly line and tasked with hanging the doors.

The 242s are terrible about the window frame deflecting over time (and cracking the welds).
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Old 06-09-2022, 10:53 PM   #34
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The window frames can bend slightly with age, and they don't preload the seals as much.

You can easily yank the window frame in a few mm and preload the seals and stop the leaks. This also keeps the lower section of the doors and fenders aligned. Just pretend you're working on the Yugo assembly line and tasked with hanging the doors.

The 242s are terrible about the window frame deflecting over time (and cracking the welds).
I tried tweaking the window frame in the front near the a pillar over the years and unfortunately it didn’t make any discernible difference.
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Old 06-15-2022, 07:08 PM   #35
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Update: making some progress.. I think I’m starting to see where I’m supposed to go now. The wind noise now starts at around 55 mph as opposed to 35-40 mph when I started. The body lines are now better than any of the other doors too. The wind noise is still unacceptable to me but I can see the front of the door needs to be lifted slightly by a few millimeters so I’ll probably try that when I get time.
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Old 06-29-2022, 02:07 PM   #36
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Still on this one. I did manage to get the doors aligned as well as I could but the wind noise still persists. I tried getting the panel gaps perfectly even but that proved to be impossible. That being said the door appears to be at the right height and tilt. It also opens and closes beautifully like the rest of the doors. I’m totally lost on what to do next as far as resolving the wind noise goes. Ugh.


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Old 06-29-2022, 02:15 PM   #37
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And now the pictures are too big and I don’t know how to resize it. Sorry bout that. Anybody know how to fix that too?
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Old 06-29-2022, 03:06 PM   #38
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I think you are chasing your tail. 240s are known for a lot of wind noise. I just drove a 240 wagon I have the other day and that is what immediately came to my attention. How much wind noise it generates compared to my more modern cars.
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Old 06-29-2022, 03:45 PM   #39
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I think you are chasing your tail. 240s are known for a lot of wind noise. I just drove a 240 wagon I have the other day and that is what immediately came to my attention. How much wind noise it generates compared to my more modern cars.
I dunno. I agree they aren’t particularly quiet cars but none of the other doors have the issue even when I’m riding in the other seats. the car is dead quiet at freeway speeds (by 240 standards) when the gap between the door and the body are taped up too.
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Old 06-29-2022, 05:06 PM   #40
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My drivers door makes a lot of wind noise on my 93 wagon. It may have something to do with the big rust holes in the door.
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Old 06-29-2022, 09:13 PM   #41
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Tape over random gaps / parts, tape foam onto things to affect gaps/shape. See what changes/blocks the noise. That tells you at least what needs modification, even if there's nothing you really can do. I noticed the silver trim stops slightly above window height - is it supposed to do that or did it get broken slightly high? Right around the mirror is a sensitive zone. Also consider taping on the inside to see if effect is better or worse than taping outside.

How's the window upper edge to door frame gapping look?
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Old 06-30-2022, 12:17 AM   #42
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Tape over random gaps / parts, tape foam onto things to affect gaps/shape. See what changes/blocks the noise. That tells you at least what needs modification, even if there's nothing you really can do. I noticed the silver trim stops slightly above window height - is it supposed to do that or did it get broken slightly high? Right around the mirror is a sensitive zone. Also consider taping on the inside to see if effect is better or worse than taping outside.

How's the window upper edge to door frame gapping look?
I did tape it and it stopped when I taped the top of the window frame and the body. Taping the mirror and the window channel made no difference. The trim strips aren’t a good reference on mine because it has multiple clips that are broken (on to my todo list). I pushed the trim strips to the side so I could align off the sheet metal ridges underneath the trim strips. I did tweak the alignment slightly by pushing the door to the front of the car so the gap between the back of the fender and the front of the door is 1mm smaller than it was in the pictures. It might’ve made a slight improvement but I’m not sure.
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Old 06-30-2022, 03:13 PM   #43
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Have you tried closing the door with a thin strip of paper trapped between the compressible weatherstrip and the steel (in various locations), and pulling out the paper to see where it pulls out too easily?
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Old 06-30-2022, 03:22 PM   #44
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Have you tried closing the door with a thin strip of paper trapped between the compressible weatherstrip and the steel (in various locations), and pulling out the paper to see where it pulls out too easily?
Yes, I’ve tried the dollar bill test on all the doors and they all let the dollar bill pull out with minimal effort but the drivers door is the only one with the wind noise issue. Weird part is I’ve tried pushing the window frame in so that it basically has a death grip on the dollar bill and it seems to make the wind noise worse.
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Old 06-30-2022, 10:34 PM   #45
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I did tape it and it stopped when I taped the top of the window frame and the body. Taping the mirror and the window channel made no difference. The trim strips aren’t a good reference on mine because it has multiple clips that are broken (on to my todo list). I pushed the trim strips to the side so I could align off the sheet metal ridges underneath the trim strips. I did tweak the alignment slightly by pushing the door to the front of the car so the gap between the back of the fender and the front of the door is 1mm smaller than it was in the pictures. It might’ve made a slight improvement but I’m not sure.
on the same zone on the outside that you taped, does taping the inside change anything? (so inside of door to headliner)

My guess is that the shape of the air going over the gap is somehow creating a noise - no actual gap to let air sound through, but rather a physical shape problem.

I would suggest trying to fab something that imitates being the chrome strip that ends early, or potentially even attaching lumps of putty in spots to break up the air flow so you don't get the same pattern hitting that gap.

Think like sticking a qtip in the airflow between the mouth of a flutist and the flute. It disrupts the flow and now the air pattern doesn't excite it.
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Old 07-01-2022, 01:57 PM   #46
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on the same zone on the outside that you taped, does taping the inside change anything? (so inside of door to headliner)

My guess is that the shape of the air going over the gap is somehow creating a noise - no actual gap to let air sound through, but rather a physical shape problem.

I would suggest trying to fab something that imitates being the chrome strip that ends early, or potentially even attaching lumps of putty in spots to break up the air flow so you don't get the same pattern hitting that gap.

Think like sticking a qtip in the airflow between the mouth of a flutist and the flute. It disrupts the flow and now the air pattern doesn't excite it.
I did try using this door seal to augment the original seals. It made the wind rustling a little less intense but that was about it. It was still there which was completely unacceptable to me. I guess it’s like treating the symptom but not the underlying problem.

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Old 07-01-2022, 03:02 PM   #47
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hmm, you might be able to get away with adding a thin strip of something in the gap between the door and the body on the outside of the door seal. This strip would block air swirling that creates the noise, or else just modify it so it sounds different. You might be able to test it by taping in an L or T shape of duct tape - just enough something to change the pattern / stop the whirling.
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Old 07-01-2022, 03:11 PM   #48
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The trim strips aren’t a good reference on mine because it has multiple clips that are broken (on to my todo list).
I wonder if air is getting under the trim causing it to lift and making the noise.
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Old 07-01-2022, 08:38 PM   #49
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Try this- turn key to run turn hvac fan to high turn off recirculate,we want lots of air flow. Walk around your car with your stethoscope or a piece of vacuum hose. There is always a leak at the bottom of the wlndshield at the a pillar.
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Old 07-02-2022, 12:21 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by the_hairy_baboon View Post
hmm, you might be able to get away with adding a thin strip of something in the gap between the door and the body on the outside of the door seal. This strip would block air swirling that creates the noise, or else just modify it so it sounds different. You might be able to test it by taping in an L or T shape of duct tape - just enough something to change the pattern / stop the whirling.
I’m considering using 1/2” rubber stripping under the outer seal to build up the seal a bit. That’ll probably be a last resort though.
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