240 Front control arms

BeaverMeat · 06-02-2022, 09:48 PM

I know you can box the OE ones? but, wondering if there is any taxi/police type control arms available to save some time.

What would to part number be?

dl242gt · 06-02-2022, 10:26 PM

You would have to find rare nos oem boxed arms which won't be cheap if you can even find any. There are two good choices to buy the plates to weld on. Yoshifab and Bad Decision Works both sell plates cut and ready to weld on to your stock arms.

A local welding shop should be able to do this for a reasonable fee if you don't weld.

hiperfauto · 06-02-2022, 10:48 PM

1229923 & 1229925

BeaverMeat · 06-02-2022, 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hiperfauto

1229923 & 1229925

Yeah? $411 plus the extra costs for the convenience vs. Buying a used set from a wrecker and welding in plates? oh, pressing in new bushings. Hmmm. I smell a project… refurbishing used suspension parts.

Wonder if polys are worth it… I have BNE dynamics conical axle bushings and hybrid torque rods at the rear. I suppose I should refurbish the trailing arms too.

The driver control arm front bushing is toast so I might as well do everything now FFS

dl242gt · 06-03-2022, 01:07 PM

If you are going for sporting handling. I'd recommend looking at the STS Delrin bushings for the front suspension. Not a cheap option but I think they are more durable and precise than having the poly.

My one complaint about the poly is that they don't do well with the heat from the exhaust on the right side. The big bushing tends to melt and fall apart after a few years. Even with the stock heat shield on the rear control arm mount.

dl242gt · 06-03-2022, 02:19 PM

This just arrived today from BDW. Looking forward to welding them on.
I liked the stamped out circles which will let me get paint inside the control
arm and trailing arm easy. Plus they just look great.

Nagrom · 06-03-2022, 06:18 PM

RIP your strut towers and frame rails

Get reinforcement plates.

dl242gt · 06-03-2022, 06:23 PM

I've used the strut tower plates for 20 years. I just recently installed BNE upper strut mounts and removed the Volvo plates. No need for them when looking at how thick the BNE mounts are and my strut tower brace also has a plate on it. Rock on.

white855T · 06-03-2022, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dl242gt

I've used the strut tower plates for 20 years. I just recently installed BNE upper strut mounts and removed the Volvo plates. No need for them when looking at how thick the BNE mounts are and my strut tower brace also has a plate on it. Rock on.

Is shipping reasonable on bad decision works parts?

dl242gt · 06-03-2022, 09:39 PM

Shipping was 66 Euros if I recall correctly. Expensive but it was here in 3 days via DHL tracked all the way.

BeaverMeat · 06-04-2022, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dl242gt

Shipping was 66 Euros if I recall correctly. Expensive but it was here in 3 days via DHL tracked all the way.

Hmm. Not worth it just for holes punched into the plates IMHO. The Yoshi?s will do the same job.

dl242gt · 06-06-2022, 01:06 PM

Of course Yoshifabs plates are just fine. However, when I saw these I wanted to use them. It's not just a bunch of holes. If you look carefully the holes have a ridge around them. This makes the piece less flexible and the holes make it easier to get paint in the nooks and crannies on the suspension parts. Sort of like how the stamping for floors get a ridge in them for strength.

white855T · 06-06-2022, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BeaverMeat

Hmm. Not worth it just for holes punched into the plates IMHO. The Yoshi?s will do the same job.

You can also just buy some sheet metal and cut to size. Less money.

VB242 · 06-07-2022, 07:57 AM

I just used leftover 3/16"x4" wide flat bar. They're not pretty but they work. I got the KL racing arms for the race car.

kyote · 06-07-2022, 01:30 PM

Always viewed them as a fuse.
With stiffer LCAs a simple crub can go from replacing a LCA to needing a frame machine quick.
If you taco one, then think about reinforcement.

BeaverMeat · 06-21-2022, 09:58 PM

It turns out the front control arm had a loose nut so I guess this project go on the back burner until I convert the suspension to coilovers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kyote

Always viewed them as a fuse.
With stiffer LCAs a simple crub can go from replacing a LCA to needing a frame machine quick.
If you taco one, then think about reinforcement.

I thought about that. I’d get the Yoshi plates for the front and cut off some of it à la OE police/cabby style.

http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/93291311.jpg

06-02-2022, 10:26 PM	#2
dl242gt Old and boxy but good. Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.	You would have to find rare nos oem boxed arms which won't be cheap if you can even find any. There are two good choices to buy the plates to weld on. Yoshifab and Bad Decision Works both sell plates cut and ready to weld on to your stock arms. A local welding shop should be able to do this for a reasonable fee if you don't weld. __________________ Dave, 1982 242 turbo. 338k miles. MVP coilovers and 3" exhaust. Flowed 405 with a V15. Cossie turbine housing with upgraded compressor housing. 90+, IPD remote oil filter. Some other goodness, too. Been lots of fun over 25 years. Restored in 2k. Now ready for a 2nd restoration. 1993 245 Classic, 440k miles, enem V15. IPD bars and chassis braces. Simons sport exhaust from Scandix. sbabbs ezk chip. Been a good road warrior. Genuine Volvo rebuilt leaky M47.

06-02-2022, 10:48 PM	#3
hiperfauto The Librarian Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: So Cal	1229923 & 1229925 __________________ 240 Alcantara Shift Boot Cover (164 & 72- 140 too) Rare, Race & R-Sports Parts Colored B/S Brake Hoses 140/160 and more Volvo Advertising Stuff -

06-07-2022, 07:57 AM	#14
VB242 I.M. Weasel Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Driving the No Malarkey Bus	I just used leftover 3/16"x4" wide flat bar. They're not pretty but they work. I got the KL racing arms for the race car. __________________ Living life one day at a time. Stopping to smell the oil slick beneath my Volvos.

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06-03-2022, 01:07 PM	#5
dl242gt Old and boxy but good. Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.	If you are going for sporting handling. I'd recommend looking at the STS Delrin bushings for the front suspension. Not a cheap option but I think they are more durable and precise than having the poly. My one complaint about the poly is that they don't do well with the heat from the exhaust on the right side. The big bushing tends to melt and fall apart after a few years. Even with the stock heat shield on the rear control arm mount.

06-03-2022, 06:18 PM	#7
Nagrom Board Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: SF	RIP your strut towers and frame rails Get reinforcement plates.

06-03-2022, 06:23 PM	#8
dl242gt Old and boxy but good. Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.	I've used the strut tower plates for 20 years. I just recently installed BNE upper strut mounts and removed the Volvo plates. No need for them when looking at how thick the BNE mounts are and my strut tower brace also has a plate on it. Rock on.

06-03-2022, 09:39 PM	#10
dl242gt Old and boxy but good. Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.	Shipping was 66 Euros if I recall correctly. Expensive but it was here in 3 days via DHL tracked all the way.

06-06-2022, 01:06 PM	#12
dl242gt Old and boxy but good. Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.	Of course Yoshifabs plates are just fine. However, when I saw these I wanted to use them. It's not just a bunch of holes. If you look carefully the holes have a ridge around them. This makes the piece less flexible and the holes make it easier to get paint in the nooks and crannies on the suspension parts. Sort of like how the stamping for floors get a ridge in them for strength.