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1990 Volvo 240 LS swap (5.3 4L60E) questions

J

Jdvolvo240

New member
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Oct 20, 2020
Edit: I have decided to go down a different route although I will leave the post up for the next guy who has similar questions. I have decided to go with a L31 5.7 vortec out of a 90's Chevy truck. I have questions now about fitment, more specifically the cross member clearance with the oil pan and if I'll run into more issues with that or not.


I'm sure these questions have been regurgitated time and time again but it seems like answer are all over the place. I'm strictly looking for cheapest options with the least amount of issues that can be worked with.

So, I'm beginning to gather parts for my inevitable LS swap. I've got the mounts for both engine and transmission. I already have something set up to acquire the engine and trans. My last big thing to tackle is the rear end as well as drive shaft.

I've read multiple posts with people saying the rear end will be fine with and unmodified 5.3, that Its better to get a Ford 8.8, or that it's better to get a Toyota truck axle.

I'm on a fairly small budget (roughly 3k but don't want to go above 5k) so I am being as cautious (and cheap) about everything I do for the swap. My big questions are: what kind of rear is best for both budget and to ensure I don't blow out the rear end? Do I need to have a shop make a custom drive shaft? I am planning on not running the holly 302-1 oil pan, will I run into any major issues with the stock one?

For more context, my rear tires are 245/35/17. I'm not planning on adding any crazy mods to the engine apart from a mild cam at most (later down the line depending on how much work goes into it). When I do an inevitable burn out (on the drag strip of course, hehe) can the Dana 30 hold up to the torque? Does anyone have experience with a LS swapped stock rear end that can give some input? I've read that you can swap in a g80 diff, does that add any extra durability?

Finally, thank you for the help!
 
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The words 'cheap' and '240 LS swap' don't really go together. Prepare for that budget to expand, or disappear entirely when it comes down to it.

I haven't put an LS in a 240 myself, but I have helped a friend put one in an older F-body. I can tell you with 90% certainty that a stock truck oil pan will not fit.

A stock Dana 30 will probably hold the torque of a stock 5.3, but not with big tires. Grip = rip.
 
I ran the stock Volvo rear[3.90] in my V8 car. First motor made 375 HP wore that motor out after 200K hard miles, no issues with the diff. 2nd motor put in in 2005 [350HP] changed the diff in 2008 to a 3.31 now has 100K miles on it, still no problems. Yes I can break tires loose but they are the safety valve.
 
Keep it simple. You need shorter pan. This is the cheapest one. https://www.stsmachininginc.com/col...um-rear-sump-oil-pan-fits-240-and-740-chassis

You need these headers:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/223468721020

Steering shaft to clear header:
https://www.stsmachininginc.com/col...eering-shaft-v8-swaps-for-240-volvo-1993-1975

I would also recommend this too:
https://www.stsmachininginc.com/col...rewall-port-303-stainless-steel-1975-1993-240

You can spend 3k in parts alone. Engine/trans can be anywhere from $700-1500(including ecu & harness), engine mounts($350). Oil pan($300). You will need a custom drive shaft($150-300). Engine harness rework($150-250 unless you can do it yourself), Ecu reflash($50-100). Exhaust work. Also in add ancillary parts(gaskets,seals). Easily over 3k. If you can a lot of the work yourself, I can see it being under 3k.
 
white855T said:
Keep it simple. You need shorter pan. This is the cheapest one. https://www.stsmachininginc.com/col...um-rear-sump-oil-pan-fits-240-and-740-chassis

You need these headers:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/223468721020

Steering shaft to clear header:
https://www.stsmachininginc.com/col...eering-shaft-v8-swaps-for-240-volvo-1993-1975

I would also recommend this too:
https://www.stsmachininginc.com/col...rewall-port-303-stainless-steel-1975-1993-240

You can spend 3k in parts alone. Engine/trans can be anywhere from $700-1500(including ecu & harness), engine mounts($350). Oil pan($300). You will need a custom drive shaft($150-300). Engine harness rework($150-250 unless you can do it yourself), Ecu reflash($50-100). Exhaust work. Also in add ancillary parts(gaskets,seals). Easily over 3k. If you can a lot of the work yourself, I can see it being under 3k.
Click to expand...

Thank you! This will be a huge help! I plan on keeping the stock rear end for now just to get it drivable. It's more of a show car/cruiser vs a race car. For the initial swap, I wanted to keep it under 3k as that's my budget currently. In the future I plan on doing more but that will be a few years from now. I should have it running by spring next year and after that it'll be a few years of saving to eventually boost the motor and do additional supporting mods like coilovers as well as some more "show car" work such as interior redesign and body work for a wide body. Thanks again for the reply!
 
The myth that the 1030/1031 rear end can't hold power doesn't hold up given that the swedes don't seem to have the same issues we talk about as 'inevitable'. I would not hesitate to throw an LS at a stock rear end, or even a boosted one. If it breaks, it breaks...but odds are, it'll just be axles...which are replaceable and will only die if you abuse the hell out of them.
 
A couple of random points:

My alu 5.3 came from a Hummer H3 Alpha, which means it has one of the better oil pans for rear-sumped cars. But even then, when I test fit it in the 240, it fit very nicely with the crossmember, but hung down below it. By an inch or more. I did NOT want a cast aluminum oil pan hanging down that low, every speed bump in the county was salivating to get a crack at that. I used the Holley oil pan on mine, pretty much the same dimensions, just a bit shorter. Now the oil pan is a little higher than the crossmember. Which is a good thing. I think someone makes a cheaper 'knock-off' version of the Holley now.

I plan on putting a Ford 8.8 in mine, and I even have one sitting in the garage, already shortened with 240 mounts welded on it. It would just take another custom driveshaft, new wheels, and some tinkering with the speed sensor (to keep the speedo/odo and ABS working properly). I was planning on doing it with the engine swap. But that project dragged on for 2 long years, in the end I just wanted to start driving it and stop working on it, so I went ahead and had a driveshaft made to work with the Volvo axle. This is a turbo 5.3 (cam-n-springs, 80lb Dekas, LS3 intake), running 6 - 7 psi, probably somewhere around 500 - 550-ish HP, Nissan CD009 6 spd manual. And the important part - still the 225 width Toyo T1R's. They're not bad tires, somewhat sticky, but the lack of wide tacky tire in the back is probably keeping the axle alive. Feed it too much power, and you just spin the tires. It's traction limited in 1, 2, 3, and sometimes 4th gears (depending). If it was actually hooking hard in the lower gears, the Volvo axle would have lowed up reel good a long time ago. As is, I've been driving it for about 5 or 6K miles so far, and the axle seems OK so far. And this was even a total shade-tree G80 swap (kept the original pinion gear in the axle housing, put the new ring gear in with the new G80, kept the shimming the way it was, just bolted it on, checked the lash by 'feel', seemed OK, close it up, and I've been driving it that way for 10+ years, mostly with a 300 - 350 HP 16V turbo redblock). I still plan on swapping the Ford 8.8 in at some point, the Volvo axle just hasn't yet made it a priority (by blowing up).
 
white855T said:
Keep it simple. You need shorter pan. This is the cheapest one. https://www.stsmachininginc.com/col...um-rear-sump-oil-pan-fits-240-and-740-chassis

You need these headers:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/223468721020

Steering shaft to clear header:
https://www.stsmachininginc.com/col...eering-shaft-v8-swaps-for-240-volvo-1993-1975

I would also recommend this too:
https://www.stsmachininginc.com/col...rewall-port-303-stainless-steel-1975-1993-240

You can spend 3k in parts alone. Engine/trans can be anywhere from $700-1500(including ecu & harness), engine mounts($350). Oil pan($300). You will need a custom drive shaft($150-300). Engine harness rework($150-250 unless you can do it yourself), Ecu reflash($50-100). Exhaust work. Also in add ancillary parts(gaskets,seals). Easily over 3k. If you can a lot of the work yourself, I can see it being under 3k.
Click to expand...

TSP 81074 is the same oil pan as STS/Holley, but cheaper
 
You could save a modest amount of money on the steering shaft as well, but same sentiment, support our Volvo parts vendors when you can.
 
I guess this isn't really an STS thread anyhow. Here's the steering shaft I used: https://www.butchsspeedshop.com/product_p/119-112.htm

I forget where I got it from specifically, but with that manufacturer and part number, search around and find the cheapest.

EDIT: Oops - benefit of buying from a vendor, they probably won't screw up and link the wrong part like I just did...
 
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patrickstar said:
I'm all for supporting vendors for engineered parts (suspension, mounts, etc) but if they're just marking up and reselling or dropshipping, I'll go other routes
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It's gives people the option of being able to order all the parts at once. A lot of people pay for convenience. You want to save a few bucks, go right ahead. Don't assume everyone is like you.
 
white855T said:
The sts machining shaft is from Coleman racing. Saving a few bucks matters to some.
Click to expand...

FWIW I linked the wrong part in. I had that bookmarked, but I thought I'd look up where I got mine from when I bought it, and it was the 12" version, not the 18 I linked. I bought mine direct from Coleman.
 
Okay, so after several days of research, I've decided that for my budget, it will be cheaper to pull a 5.7 vortex out of a 90's Chevy truck. They're more readily available in my area as I have been watching inventory at my local junkyards and have seen plenty of 90's trucks pass through. On top of that, I can go with a non EFI carb and dual point distributor eliminating the need for a computer. Also, the trans that will be in the truck (4l60/700r4) is hydraulically controlled so I won't need a controller for the trans. My only concern is fitment. I know (I think) the engine mounts from sts machining will fit as well as the trans mount. My only concern is cross member clearance. Does anyone know if I'll have issues or not?
 
Jdvolvo240 said:
Okay, so after several days of research, I've decided that for my budget, it will be cheaper to pull a 5.7 vortex out of a 90's Chevy truck. They're more readily available in my area as I have been watching inventory at my local junkyards and have seen plenty of 90's trucks pass through. On top of that, I can go with a non EFI carb and dual point distributor eliminating the need for a computer. Also, the trans that will be in the truck (4l60/700r4) is hydraulically controlled so I won't need a controller for the trans. My only concern is fitment. I know (I think) the engine mounts from sts machining will fit as well as the trans mount. My only concern is cross member clearance. Does anyone know if I'll have issues or not?
Click to expand...

The 5.7 Vortec is a Gen-1 small-block Chevy. It's basically a fancy 350. It will not fit in your 240 with LS (Gen III) swap parts.

Also, the 5.7 Vortec motors were all-iron, and probably weigh a good 575-600 lbs or so. You can make a swap like that work (and making 350-ish bhp with a proper Vortec 350 isn't too hard), you're just going to need totally different swap parts.
 
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