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240 exhaust gasket change.

Roloc sander

lookforjoe said:
if you can remove all the studs, use a roloc fine grit or similar, easier with air tools, but ok on a drill, just slower. Get the flanged locknuts, and don't discard the original flat washers, they hold up much better than any generic version

pxl-20210630-205909498.jpg


these were my gaskets, and it wasn't even leaking - they just fell apart upon removal

pxl-20210630-215614218.jpg
Click to expand...

do not!!! Use a rolc sander unless yuo want to f'up the surface.
 
You can also go over it with a block sander, also works as long as the studs are removed. Works well for the exhaust manifold also. I used 240 grit on this header, they didn't finish it well from the manufacturer.

PXL-20220814-171731377.jpg
 
Ok. I?ve been really busy but also on my free time I?ve been trying to get a broken stud off the head. I have very limited tools at my disposal but if anyone have any more suggestions I?m all ears. The stud has been broken for a while as I found it that way. I tried double nutting it several times with no success. The nuts slipped both times and then on the third time I stripped the threads on the stud. I also tried whacking it with a hammer to break it free. It?s been soaking in pb for the past couple of days and not any help. I also tried vice grips on the already messed up threads. I stripped the teeth on my vice grips and it still didn?t go. I literally used channel locks to lock the vice grips in place. I?m out of things I know how to do with my tools. If anyone knows more tricks I would be willing to listen. My current plan is to re tap the threads on the stud and then double nut with red thread locker on the stud to see if that even does anything. My tool, arms, and mind have taken quite a beating. What?s next?
 
If you can't weld it. The next step is to take it to a machine shop or fabrication shop. They will weld a nut on the end and remove it. Plus they can redrill the hole and tap it for you if needed. The welding trick works wonders and is your next approach to getting it repaired.
 
Can you use an ice cube to smash iced over it hot after gentle little butane torch with some penetrating lube snd t-handle breaker bar w/stud extractor that bites the stud from 360 degrees and get it moving/rock it or similar?

I have a short 1/2? drive T-handle slider breaker bar with detent from the 70s I use for gently screwing diesel injectors into D24 heads so I don?t crack them snd working stubborn studs back and forth rocking them without putting torque on just one side of them if I?d be using a socket or ratchet otherwise?

Failing that, there?s the thing swedishiron posted, but most machinists worth their salt (or guys with good dentists fine motor hand control & ?the Midas touch? for metal tweakiness with mechanicals, jewelry, metal teeth etc?) just have a plasma cutter snd give stuck rusty snapped studs a good zap with the oil and ice cube after tapping them with the right implement snd they just about jump right outta there?

But they do it every day/know how to control their temps & have a feel for each type of stuck fastener & how hard, how old/fatigued & temp cycled, how rusty & how stuck?

Busted or stuck in aluminum damaging the threads in the aluminum alloy is often more the issue compared to rusted/stuck steel stud to cast iron?
..but they?re often wound in their fairly tight to the shoulder or the stud.
Later whiteblock turbo cars use all-thread studs that seem more reliable among other subtle revisions?

Good luck?

On the old oil only turbo beat out non-if B21Ft cars, those things the manifold warps and rips the threads out of the heads oftentimes/issues?
?better studs & turbo cup washers might be nice tho probably overkill for n/a.
The pre 90 manifolds warp at the head flange, 90+ they?re tied together at the head flange & don?t Earp there , but run rat fart small Mitsubishi junk restrictive turbos with a tiny outlet, thick turbo flange and thin spot in the quality cast tube collector where they crack?
 
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If you're still dealing with this, I had a Vanagon recently that did something similar. Harbor Freight has vice grips with a 1/4" socket slot in the chuck, so you can really tighten down on something. That along with a small propane torch got all of my broken studs out.
 
This is what I was told was a great tool for extracting stripped studs: https://www.autozone.com/tools-and-equipment/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/stud-remover/p/oemtools-1-4in-to-1-2in-stud-extractor/52437_0_0

I had a similar situation where I first tried double nutting it then stripped it with vice grips so I went and bought this tool. Got it clamped to the stud fully and when I went to turn it, it just snapped the stud off. So it was almost flush with the head. So I just welded a nut onto it and it eventually came out. But I probably was loosening it at an angle so it snapped easier.
 
Ok done. I got the stud off. Cleaned up the surfaces reassembled and it works good. I was able to get the stud by heating and letting the head cool. Thanks for the advice guys. I?ll note those gaskets were dead. I wonder if they were the original ones.
 
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