Very High EGT on load & idle

Lol .. you seem to be well informed
Of course i have a wideband, and i have tried AFR 10 up to 12 on boost (a bit more than yours, 1.6bar)

I have to start drinking Ouzo a bit more and forget about my EGTs i think ..

So: new tests, removed the exhaust silencer, removed the heat wrap from the manifold but no significant changes to report.
Also measured the cylinders compression which is 145 on all of them, so no problem with the valves openings/rings etc.

Now the only solution is to get a new exhaust manifold, and a new more aggressive cam. Can not think of anything else.

Maybe a stupid question : what fuel are you using ?

Not at all stupid question, it is 100 octane unleaded.

An answer from ENEM, that i sent an email (with the given that i want an engine more than 400hp):

Hello, hard to tell but the short duration and narrow angle between the lobe centres will cause an early inlet valve closing and as a result high compression pressure – which probably force you to retard the ignition – which result in high exhaust temperature. That could be one explanation. The turbo cams have a wider lobe centre, given less overlap and later closing of the inlet plus longer duration, for reasons I wrote. There is another alternative, the K13 turbo Cam which is 280 degrees. Perhaps that could be your choice.

The options by ENEM are actually 4 for turbo cars (all much different than my specs):

V15 turbo (same as IPD) < V16 turbo < Κ13 turbo < K15 turbo

Mh.. Other guys rockin the a cam dont have such problems.. I find this quite strange..

Maybe it is something to do with my 9,1:1 CR , and that i try to push the engine into 350+ area .. No idea though !

9.1:1 CR is not so high (I run 9.0:1) in my car, w/o glowing the turbo @ idle...

What plugs are you using? Are you sure your ignition is ok (I mean all the fuel is burned in the cylinder)? You can maybe try that (I'm sure I'll be flamed by some guys here...) : use a few liters of 95 octane fuel, just to see what's happen...

And what T stat?

Roy 940 said:

You can maybe try that (I'm sure I'll be flamed by some guys here...) : use a few liters of 95 octane fuel, just to see what's happen...

Click to expand...

Why you should gonna be flamed about this.. this is why we have knock sensors Boosting the **** out of the engine then is just a dumb owners fault..

I heard by a superbike fan that 100 octane fuel burns much hotter than 97 or 95 octane. Maybe i need to try it, the most easy thing..

As for the ignition timing i have used both Gary's timing and mine, does not do some difference, plus on boost it gets same hot but faster. As my thermostat is 88*C. No problem there though, even with 40*C outside temp, i see maximum 89-90*C. The front radiator is very nice

For plugs, i use champion racing cold plugs, have tried the "stock" volvo with no luck, will find out codes and post ..

+ the 100 octane burn slower as the 95 or 98 octane fuel. I think it can be (as JohnV said a lot of time) because of the big bore of our Redblocks, the mixture finish to burn when the exhaust valve start to be opened, so the EGT goes too high...

About plugs, at what gap did you set it?

B230F + 15G turbo, with K cam 10psi boost, 93AKI fuel (avg(RON,MON)).
90+ exhaust manifold, angled flange exhaust housing, 3" exhaust.

I see maximum EGTs in the low 800c range.

Measured in pulesair holes in exhaust port in the head.

I get a bit of detonation at WOT with 91AKI fuel, so the timing is pretty close to the edge.

Your mileage may vary.

So.. answers to the questions:

the plugs that i use now are Champion Racing 785 C61C which i think it is enough cold.

The gap was reduced to 0.5mm to handle the increased boost.

The fuel thing has a good basis, i will try it for sure.

I was reading something about effective / static CR so i might to have a look at this..

I see in your thread you've increased your oil pressure, right?

If yes, check it twice because it can increase the engine temp (I've had this issue in my previous PRV engine).

My engine's temp (water actually) rarely goes above 90*c, so i don't think this is a case with the EGT. I assume that this should cause the block to get hot, not the EGT ..

Aris - the cam explanation from ENEM seems reasonable. A few points worth noting:

-Turbine wheel in the GT ball bearing turbo families (including GTX2867R) is made from Inco713 which should survive well up to around 980C turbine inlet gas temperature. Much hotter than that for extended periods will likely cause dwell fatigue, where tiny chunks of the blades will break off at the inducer. Looks like "mouse bites" or mild FOD, but is in fact due to excessive EGTs. Check your turbine wheel for this.

-Unwrap the exhaust manifold as others suggested to allow more radiation which will help keep the manifold and turbine housing cooler and alive, although it likely won't affect gas temps much.

-Retarding ignition will indeed raise EGTs, and is part of anti-lag strategy in fact. Keep it advanced as much as possible.

-1100C is hotter than WRC engines run for EGTs! Keep working to cool it down before major damage is caused. Stay out of boost if you have to until it's solved.

I have the probe placed almost the same spot, but i dont have oem manifold.. I have almost same exhaust temps. Idle 500c, cruise 700c, under boost 950-1000c. Colder plugs helped me a bit under boost, i use ngk bp9es. And my problem is probably camshaft, but it runs great.