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CD009 Swap Guide 7/900 Edition.

Yes we have 350/370 Nissan?s here. Finding a used cd009 that isn?t flogged out is another thing tho.

Op. Any rattle while in neutral and idle once box has warmed up? And any weird noises/clunking while on decel in any gear?

I?ve had m90 with ttv flywheel and it was a noisy boi. And had trouble getting into gears.
T5 swap which has horrible decel noises.

The CD009 is a noisy box also. Especially when you're running a lighten flywheel. The Nissan cars equipped with the box have better noise insulation than our old Volvos. But I can ear it pretty good in my 370z also.
 
The CD009 is a noisy box also. Especially when you're running a lighten flywheel. The Nissan cars equipped with the box have better noise insulation than our old Volvos. But I can ear it pretty good in my 370z also.

What flywheel and clutch setup are you running in the z?
What kind of noises are expected?
Chasing a few leads on cd009 here in aus or maybe import a brand new unit from the states if the wallet permits.
 
What flywheel and clutch setup are you running in the z?
What kind of noises are expected?
Chasing a few leads on cd009 here in aus or maybe import a brand new unit from the states if the wallet permits.

I'll have to check the brand/model and report back. It's a lightweight single mass FW instead of the OEM dual mass and a stage 3 clutch.

I could source 2 X 2018 370z Nismo 6 speed trannies here for around $1900 CAD (approx $2100 AUD) + shipping and another one form a 2011 370z Nismo for probably around $950 CAD ($1050 AUD)

A new CD009 from the US would be around $2750 AUD + Shipping.
 
What flywheel and clutch setup are you running in the z?
What kind of noises are expected?
Chasing a few leads on cd009 here in aus or maybe import a brand new unit from the states if the wallet permits.

If you are putting it in a Volvo, you can use your Volvo flywheel and pressure plate with a clutch with the right diameter and spline count. Deeworks has recommendations. Yoshifab made mine for my dog dish.

I would tell you about the noise in my car, but I have no interior, windows or sound deadening and I always have my helmet on when I drive it.
 
I'm only finding 225mm KA24 clutch disks, is that what your using? I was under the impression the dog-dish was made for 228mm disks.

I have just pulled my B200FT and replaced with a B230FT. In doing so i also decided to upgrade to the yoshifab 235mm package.
I can confirm the original clutch i ran with the setup was to small. it worked, and got me going, but it unevenly wore the flywheel and pressure plate.
it was the cheapest way to get the car going and it does work, its just not ideal.
it lasted me long enough to save the nearly $2000 Nzd i needed for the better setup.
The cheaper alternative that i was going to get was the clutch upgrade that Yoshifab sells, the main reason i diddnt was so in future i can buy shelf stuff for my car locally.
https://yoshifab.com/store/volvo-red-block-stage-3-clutch.html
https://yoshifab.com/store/235mm-clutch-and-flywheel-package.html

Once i get this POS no start issue sorted ill upload some more photos and throw some decent miles on the swap to review it properly.
 
Mine isn't behind a redblock (Turbo 5.3 LS), and it's not in a 7/900, but after putting a few thousand miles on it, I'd suggest you look over the CD009 ratios and ponder a rear axle ratio swap.

I left my 3.73 rear axle alone for the time being (originally an automatic trans 240) - and I'm not going to bother changing because I have a Ford 8.8 waiting to go in. Even though the Nissans that used the CD009 used something close to a 3.53-ish rear end, the gearing is pretty short with the 3.73. To the point the gaps between the gears feel pointlessly short, and even in 6th gear, the motor's spinning faster than it needs to at (fast) highway speed. Hell, half the time now I'll just do a 1-3-5 or a 1-2-4-6 shift pattern.

Just something to think about - play around with a gearing calculator and probably budget for an axle ratio swap. I'm pondering something in the low 3's for the 8.8.
 
Hey man. Have you sorted the car? Would love some more feedback on how it has been.

Mine isn't behind a redblock (Turbo 5.3 LS), and it's not in a 7/900, but after putting a few thousand miles on it, I'd suggest you look over the CD009 ratios and ponder a rear axle ratio swap.

I left my 3.73 rear axle alone for the time being (originally an automatic trans 240) - and I'm not going to bother changing because I have a Ford 8.8 waiting to go in. Even though the Nissans that used the CD009 used something close to a 3.53-ish rear end, the gearing is pretty short with the 3.73. To the point the gaps between the gears feel pointlessly short, and even in 6th gear, the motor's spinning faster than it needs to at (fast) highway speed. Hell, half the time now I'll just do a 1-3-5 or a 1-2-4-6 shift pattern.

Just something to think about - play around with a gearing calculator and probably budget for an axle ratio swap. I'm pondering something in the low 3's for the 8.8.

I have a 3.31 rear gear with pinion ready to go if anybody needs one... I'm going with an S14 rear subframe swap on my build so I don't need it anymore.
 
I have had mine in now fsince Aug 2018 and about 5-6 races. Typically our races are 14 hours, a couple are 24. It has worked flawlessly, never once heard a grind between shifts. Once we get on the track we only use 3rd-4th-5th and rarely 2nd. We have never used 6th.

We need to figure out something for the reverse lockout, without one it is difficult to find 5th and every driver has ended up in 3rd a few times by accident.

Vastly different than the tired M46 we had that made nice crunch sounds between gears.
 
I have had mine in now fsince Aug 2018 and about 5-6 races. Typically our races are 14 hours, a couple are 24. It has worked flawlessly, never once heard a grind between shifts. Once we get on the track we only use 3rd-4th-5th and rarely 2nd. We have never used 6th.

We need to figure out something for the reverse lockout, without one it is difficult to find 5th and every driver has ended up in 3rd a few times by accident.

Vastly different than the tired M46 we had that made nice crunch sounds between gears.

You could always get the Serial Nine shifter? It has a reverse lockout. That's what I bought for my 740. Might not work on a 240 though without cutting back the trans tunnel a bit.
 
Well that?s something to think about. I have 4.11 in car atm because I have a t5z in there. What?s the lowest ratio Volvo diff?
 
Hey man. Have you sorted the car? Would love some more feedback on how it has been.

Car is running again. I agree that a 3.5 would be good, i to sometime run 1,3,5 shift pattern in light traffic at the lights if im at the front of the que.
I personally wont change though, i may go 8.8 but not before the end of the year. The reason is the same as the decision for my change to this over a t56. I wanted the very short 1st, and close ratio for dragracing. (Though im to scared of my diff blowing for that yet)
Its fine to drive but it is quite noisy, (only on deceleration sounds like they just have large backlash) they aparently quiet down with redline fluid, i have castrol fluid in it. All the Z guys reccomend nothing but redline. It prolongs the life drastically and saves the synchros.
I have met a few guys with good power Z's and they do still blow synchros if you dont have top quality fluid in them and over 300ish hp.
AdamLz has snapped an input shaft in a 4th gear clutch drop burnout. So they are proving incredibly strong when well looked after.

Personally i like it, my bracket adaptor worked very well.
If anyone ever wants the drawing they can DM me and ill email it to you. i would like to stress again THERE IS NO NEED FOR CUSTOM TRANS MOUNT IN A 7/9. you can move the manual trans mount to the auto location and use the adaptor plate i made.

The only issue i have had was with the new clutch and flywheel. My master and slave diddnt like it and burst seals, the both got rebuilt then needed retaining circlips put in and longer actuator rod to stop it pushing to far. But other than that its been good.
 
Spend the money on the serial 9 shifter.
Its on my desperately want list but i have to much on the go to buy it.
Its the only lame thing about the car, mine works fine but its not smooth as geometry isnt perfect.
Also S1 sequential is making a shifter for the CD009 so that will be awesome but also probably $1500 USD
 
Spend the money on the serial 9 shifter.
Its on my desperately want list but i have to much on the go to buy it.
Its the only lame thing about the car, mine works fine but its not smooth as geometry isnt perfect.
Also S1 sequential is making a shifter for the CD009 so that will be awesome but also probably $1500 USD

If Yoshifab could finally get his shifter adapter available ther would be a cheaper alternative around. I don't know where he's at with that. Maybe you could shoot him an email about it?
 
If Yoshifab could finally get his shifter adapter available ther would be a cheaper alternative around. I don't know where he's at with that. Maybe you could shoot him an email about it?

Nah mine works fine, its just not as good as i want it to be. Any adaptor will be the same or very similar to what i have.
 
If Yoshifab could finally get his shifter adapter available ther would be a cheaper alternative around. I don't know where he's at with that. Maybe you could shoot him an email about it?


YoshiFab has one done and there is a video he just posted with a reverse lock out :)
 
As a follow up, Yoshifab made me a pre-production version of their CD009 7/900 shifter. It worked great in my last race, no more missed 5th gear shifts. Reverse is reached by pushing down to defeat the lockout. I don't know when the production units will be ready. If you need/want one, I would suggest sending Josh an email. I know there is at least one other installed.
 
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