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Old 10-18-2020, 01:35 AM   #26
dkrause
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Originally Posted by klr142 View Post
As most have mentioned, your bottom end, if balanced and all happy, should be fine to 8k+. If you had a B230 bottom end and a stock harmonic balancer on the front of it, you are risking things by going over 7000-7500rpm. Especially not recommended if it's old and cracking! You don't have that, running a B23 though, so you should be fine.

Your main concern is valve float. If it is indeed an IPD Turbo cam, they are pretty mild and I'd default to saying you're going to be ok. Pay attention to that, though, as if you do get float, it's obviously very hard on things and worst case you can drop a valve if the keepers get loose.
With a much smaller and lighter piston, too.

What camshaft? And on my RSI head, I also recently had the valve spring seat pressures measured as barely above stock with my "7500rpm valve spring kit" from RSI, too. Not cool when I am about to slap in a much larger than stock type camshaft.
Kyle; What are the options for Aftermarket performance harmonic balancer for B230? Any recommendations.
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Old 10-18-2020, 02:19 AM   #27
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Kyle; What are the options for Aftermarket performance harmonic balancer for B230? Any recommendations.
I’d like to know as well! I’ll ask Erland.
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Old 10-18-2020, 05:26 AM   #28
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I have found that on a big sweeping course i’ll shift to 3rd and keep smooth.
But if you need a bit more and want to stay in 2nd, here’s the idea i was going to throw at you: set up the new gearset with new pinion bearings. keep the 4.10 ring gear, and the 4.10 pinion with the bearings and crush sleeve.
Use synthetic gear lube, i usually don’t need much if any modifier. Or use gear lube with modifier. Or strain your oil through a coffee filter. It takes a while but i don’t stand there and watch it.
The friction modifier was a requirement of the upgrade to the Cobra clutch packs. Some very stinky stuff, I opened the bottle in the shop and one of my guys about 30ft away smelled it immediately, someone told me it had whale oil in it.
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Old 10-18-2020, 01:23 PM   #29
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It's not whale oil. It's a nasty polymer in a refined petroleum base. But yes, it stinks.
This is what I use with no modifier unless it talks to me.
https://www.valvoline.com/en-thailan...power-gear-oil
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Old 10-19-2020, 03:02 PM   #30
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stock N/A B230E (kjet) , with stock 530 head. 2.5Exhaust, with Klracing ST4 cam.
I try to don't go more than 7200rpm on my Volvo 360 on track. But after 2 years of abuse : No problems for the moment
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Old 10-21-2020, 05:05 PM   #31
klr142
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Erland got back to me regarding the crank balancer/pulley. I must have misunderstood an earlier email as he doesn't use anything special. Just the solid, lightweight aluminum pulleys such as this: https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar...ggeruttag.html.

He did also say:
Quote:
An ATI balancer probably would be better but I have had no problems with the hub.

Last edited by klr142; 10-22-2020 at 11:54 AM..
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Old 10-22-2020, 01:37 PM   #32
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In the past I've had R&P failures due to synthetic gear lube. In my V8 wagon, and the race car that I was crew chief for. The synthetic gear oil does not offer enough shock protection, causing fatigue fracture failure, have the broken parts hanging in my shop on my "Wall of Shame".
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Old 10-22-2020, 02:44 PM   #33
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Well I bumped it up and test drove it this morning, I barely made it to 7k when I pussed out, it seemed like it was fine though. I think I could use an adjustable cam gear to shift the power band up a bit. The 4.10 rear really makes it jump so I'm not worried so much about the low end.

Edit I just checked the log 7081 rpm

Last edited by VB242; 10-22-2020 at 03:13 PM..
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Old 10-22-2020, 10:12 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by klr142 View Post
Erland got back to me regarding the crank balancer/pulley... Just the solid, lightweight aluminum pulleys such as this: https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar...ggeruttag.html.
Is this or any of the aftermarket balancers NOT underdrive?
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Old 10-23-2020, 03:10 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by 283SD View Post
In the past I've had R&P failures due to synthetic gear lube. In my V8 wagon, and the race car that I was crew chief for. The synthetic gear oil does not offer enough shock protection, causing fatigue fracture failure, have the broken parts hanging in my shop on my "Wall of Shame".
I had a true track installed in my 82 turbo and using Redline Synthetic gear oil the rear started to whine. I took it back to the shop and they suggested going to a dino oil. So I put the Lucas GL 5 gear oil in there and the whine went away after a few months of driving.
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