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Saab APC: Modifying and Installing

so just throw a line down the fishing well?

Sort of but not really according to the factory instructions.
See step#21

http://www.k-jet.org/files/installation/B21FT-Intercooler_Boost_System_Installation_Instructions.pdf

hotdog down a hallway.

It was actually pretty hard to stuff the hose in there.

Actuallly I prefer the tap and barb install, cleaner, more permanent, less chance of fail.

+1

Doing it right always pays off in the end.

Of course the cost of the drill bit and 1/4 npt tap would pretty much ruin the nightly beer budget.:nod:
 
i've got the aluminum 740 intercooler plumbing...i think i'll figure out a more permanent solution than just dropping the line as you're describing...

I don't think there's anything on an APC that can or should be connected to the intercooler pipes. The transducer should take a signal post throttle-body, and the "vent" (rightmost port on solenoid valve from the top) should connect before the turbo where it's exposed to ambient pressure.
 
I don't think there's anything on an APC that can or should be connected to the intercooler pipes. The transducer should take a signal post throttle-body, and the "vent" (rightmost port on solenoid valve from the top) should connect before the turbo where it's exposed to ambient pressure.


right...good point. the intercooler pipes are post turbo, and this needs to be pre-turbo.

think I'm going to do what Ken's suggesting and drill a hole and permanently mount a bung.

i don't know why that seemed so tough to begin with.


Also want to confirm that the instructions in the first post of this thread are right...in terms of wiring.

Though it doesn't specify where to wire the leads from the knock sensor to.


As for the knock sensor...is it best to run a separate knock sensor or can I just piggy back the leads to the existing sensor on my B230FT
 
APC hacking

<iframe title="YouTube video player" class="youtube-player" type="text/html" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/g8yXEMJ4xK8?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowFullScreen></iframe>


Electronic "knock hat" listen to your engine while driving, the Saab APC has a circuit that listens for engine noise to verify that the knock sensor is functional, added option to listen in with a headphone. Here i connected a piezzo speaker so the engine noise could be heard on my video.

<iframe title="YouTube video player" class="youtube-player" type="text/html" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/SemZUJYI1CI?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowFullScreen></iframe>
 
i can't really say i know what i was hearing but cool for you for posting those vids!

what was going on in the first one?
 
I still have those brass nipples we took off your B21F manifold.

Drills and the taps are here too,check in some time,and we'll get it going.


coolio dude...should be smooth with your attention to detail at hand. I think that's the last of my riddles.

oh, and where to run the leads to the knock sensor to...meaning what are the pin outs for the knock sensor....

never mind, found the leads, still intact.
 
never mind, found the leads, still intact.

Yea, the wiring instructions usually don't mention the knock sensor wiring, because it's a shielded cable and works best if you pull the whole thing and use it untouched. You can piggy back off the same sensor with the adapter sold for knocksense, but it's easier just to get a longer bolt and have two.
 
Easier or smarter? Doesn't seem too hard to piggyback the existing knock sensor.

Any drawbacks to this?

Not if the wiring is still shielded properly (although if it weren't it would *probably* still work). If I were to go that route, I'd buy a knocksense harness from Borris- otherwise you'd have to either find the correct connectors or permanently cut into your stock EZK harness:
KnockAll.jpg

http://www.viatrack.ca/

I just used an old Volvo exhaust stud, nut, and washer in place of the stock bolt to piggy back a second sensor.
 
It worked great for me... just make sure you're using the same type of sensor (there's 2 different ones with different torque specs) and get the torque right.

kk

the knock sensor that came with my apc system reads, 0 261 231 006

is that right?
 
kk

the knock sensor that came with my apc system reads, 0 261 231 006

is that right?

Any knock sensor will work- there's just two different types- one much thicker than the other and they have different torque specs. So you need to have two of the same type if torquing them on with the same bolt.
 
Any knock sensor will work- there's just two different types- one much thicker than the other and they have different torque specs. So you need to have two of the same type if torquing them on with the same bolt.



oh, now i got ya...assumed you meant something to do with the sensor itself and the torque output of the motor.

wow, what an assumption i've made, haha
 
Not if the wiring is still shielded properly (although if it weren't it would *probably* still work). If I were to go that route, I'd buy a knocksense harness from Borris- otherwise you'd have to either find the correct connectors or permanently cut into your stock EZK harness:
KnockAll.jpg

http://www.viatrack.ca/

I just used an old Volvo exhaust stud, nut, and washer in place of the stock bolt to piggy back a second sensor.

this is quite intriguing...

so the knock sensor sends it's pig tail to the original, then to the computer and to a light...so i wouldn't need the knocksense component, correct?


yeah, i would just run the leads to the APC and the light. who's borris?
 
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