• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

92 240 Wagon Possible Demise

xDread92x said:
Thanks. I guess its really over...how will I go on
Click to expand...

It ain't over 'til it's over... and that's the bitter end. So before you blow a hole in the block, take it apart and see whats what... used rod or rods and new bearings, used crank and new bearings, used pistons and new rings. Don't Give Up You can Do it!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/TmENMZFUU_0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
To be honest though - if it needs the crank turned or the rod ends reground; then it really needs a full rebuild or a "known good" shortblock.

Because once you pop the pistons out to regrind the rod ends, then you are looking at checking the bore, ordering new rings (hopefully not new pistons - if the bore is salvageable) turning the crank, new wrist pin bushings, etc... etc... etc$$$

Edit:// although, I think you should do it. Don't crush it.
 
John242Ti said:
Find a 1993-95 940 with a regina FI B230F in it. Pull engine. Remove the regina stuff, wiring harness, and the accessory brackets. Install the LH 2.4 (or 3.1) FI parts, 240 wiring harness, and accessories with brackets. Replace metal cap on rear of head with cam plug and iPd plug retainer. Change all oil seals. Install transmission, drop into car.

-J
Click to expand...

Just curious, why so specific on the engine choice? Any b230 will work just fine for OP.
 
I'm guessing because it's a nice late model round-toothed squirter blocked motor with a block mounted distributor. So no need to pull it apart even a little to put an intermediate shaft in it.

And again:
1) Pull the valve cover off and see what the cam bearings and lobes look like. Unbolt one or two of the caps, no need to take them all off. Just see if they're galled up from a lack of oil. This will take about 15 - 20 minutes. If it all looks good that's promising.
2) Drain the remaining oil out of the pan and see if it looks shiny. If there are shiny specks of metal in it, that's very bad. This also takes a very trivial amount of time.

If there's nothing shiny in the oil and the valvetrain still looks good? Might as well give it a go. I really don't think you're going to see the results of your oil deprivation in a compression test. The things that will ruin themselves *very* quickly in the absence of oil won't really affect compression.

And you never said if the oil light was on or not, and if it was, how long you drove with it on.
 
JohnMc said:
I'm guessing because it's a nice late model round-toothed squirter blocked motor with a block mounted distributor. So no need to pull it apart even a little to put an intermediate shaft in it.
Click to expand...

I guess that makes sense, but in my experience, all of the efan cars show more cylinder bore wear from running 220F+ at idle. I’ve never ever seen a clutch fan car get that warm (assuming the cooling system is healthy). Also seems like the 7/9 cars always leak more coolant due to operating at TWICE the cooling system pressure than a 240 does, then they’re out of coolant and the owners keep driving them because the temperature gauge does nothing until it’s too late. But that’s besides the point.

No worries OP, engine swap from b230 to b230 is very easy.
 
xDread92x said:
Rear main seal went.

It didnt run long on low oil. I really feel the head is whats damaged.

I had a b230f that seized before and unseized it and it still ran with a piston slap. It ran much longer on no oil at all vs low oil with my wagon now
Click to expand...


Well you should feel suspicious of your feelings....and you have evidence that you don't have good reasoning abilities...

Let's just try and think a bit..
You run the engine out of oil...What does the oil primarily do?
It maintains a .0015" layer of oil under 45-75 psi to prevent the nice soft lead/tin rod bearings and main bearings from getting ground to rats**t by banging on the mean ol hard cast iron journals..
You run it out of oil... but suspect its "the head"....

Maybe, but far more bigger-er chance that those soft lead/tin plated rod and main bearings have contacted the crank journals...specifically the upper shells in the rods. And lower shells in the mains..

5-6 seconds with no oil pressure ought to be enough to kill them to death...

Run it till it makes noise and I have a feeling that more damage is done, like ID of rod big ends..Cylinder wall, pistons, cam journals in the head..all those things that depend on that thin film of oil under pressure.

But that's only my feelings...and clearly all feelings should weigh exactly the same as other feelings... Right?
 
JohnMc said:
Drain the oil and see if it looks sparkly.

At this point, there's not much of a risk in putting oil in it and just running it until it dies. Be that 10 miles, 1000 miles, 1000000 miles. Other than losing the effort you're putting into pulling the trans to swap the RMS.
Click to expand...

Snipping open the oil filter, then spreading the pleats is a much more sure-fire way of finding exciting things like bearing overlay that just looking at oil..messier but it is what real engine builders do (first time after first heat cycle)..
 
Well swedefiend was right...as soon as it got in high 2nd into 3rd it almost clacked out of the engine bay. Its definitely the block unfortunately.

Well I guess another B230 will be placed in. For now I will have to resurrect my 85 244 as a secondary vehicle because its the best running lh 2.2 I have had

Don't know when I will do this project, possibly not for a while. In the mean time I will be keeping an eye out on engine options
 
In the future, unless it's a big risk to life and limb, turn the motor off as soon as the oil light comes on. It's got a life span of a few seconds before serious damage occurs.

And if the oil light doesn't work, fix it.
 
JohnMc said:
In the future, unless it's a big risk to life and limb, turn the motor off as soon as the oil light comes on. It's got a life span of a few seconds before serious damage occurs.

And if the oil light doesn't work, fix it.
Click to expand...

Good advice here. My 93 244+T has a broken OPSU wire so I?ve just parked it. I bought a nice replacement piece from DBarton just haven?t installed it. Very bad idea to run without the idiot light.
 
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Btrl9BCOs6g" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

The dirt at the 27 second part is icing on the cake!
 
Centsableone said:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Btrl9BCOs6g" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

The dirt at the 27 second part is icing on the cake!
Click to expand...

Hahaha this is me. I got a lot of heat from making those videos.

By the way, this is only about 1/4 of the videos I have. Time was limited to roughly 90 seconds when I sent it to car throttle.

Also, I never paid shay back those pennies:(
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top