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66 122 - The car I shouldnt keep but like too much

It's what continues to draw me to Jensen built P1800's eventhough Jensen did a horrible job of assembling them. (sooooooo much lead....)

A friend claims he has the ability to reproduce rubber seals, I'll shoot him a text and will let you know what he says.

:nod:
Awesome, thanks for doing that. My other option is to send one out to www.steelerubber.com and see if they can match something.

Speaking of early stuff, yesterday I learned that the front engine crossmember and control arms on b16 amazon are the same as the Jensen 1800s

and because new page needs picture. Here is the passenger rear side vent window I pulled.
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It's what continues to draw me to Jensen built P1800's eventhough Jensen did a horrible job of assembling them. (sooooooo much lead....)
Heh, I wonder if there was a significant weight difference between the Jensen P1800 and the first 1800S cars.

I've seen *thick* lead from the factory on other types of old British cars. At least it doesn't fail like bondo, even after 50 years.
 
Spoke to my friend who makes seals and he says it's beyond his abilities.

Lead.... When I start a thread on my next P1800, you'll see just how bad it is. Door openings, all around the windshield, etc... My guess is 5-8 lbs or more per car.
 
Spoke to my friend who makes seals and he says it's beyond his abilities.

Lead.... When I start a thread on my next P1800, you'll see just how bad it is. Door openings, all around the windshield, etc... My guess is 5-8 lbs or more per car.

thanks for asking. I talked to several sources and most people haven't even heard of these. I'm going to send one out and see if I can get something matched


switched over to the early style handles, I been meaning to do this for a while now
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Installed driver rear popout, ofcourse I now need new gaskets and and door panel
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took it for a drive and some sunset photos. The rear window blows lots of cold air, it's going to be great in the summer. I just love the way it looks
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If the inner panel trim is at all salvageable (even temporarily) peel it off and use the rotted fiberboard as a template to cut a new one. Reattach trim, wait for something better.
 
Here's another source of rubber seals. They'll send you 3" samples to try. The catalog has good drawings of cross sections, too!

http://www.restorationspecialties.com/

sweet i'll check them out

If the inner panel trim is at all salvageable (even temporarily) peel it off and use the rotted fiberboard as a template to cut a new one. Reattach trim, wait for something better.

ehh new ones are $93 each and super nice. Will just order some

and because pictures - I love late winder and spring around here. The blossoms are super early because no rain... will probably be terrible for farmers

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Great build, and fantastic work trying to put everything back to the way it should be. Just got done reading the entire thread, bravo!
 
Looking good! I'm really digging the wheel/tire combo. Classy rig.

Great build, and fantastic work trying to put everything back to the way it should be. Just got done reading the entire thread, bravo!

Thank you both. :omg:

I have been busy working on other cars and doing some random remodeling so I haven't made time to work on this car in a while

I finally got around to rebuilding the rear seat bottom. Car came to me with a coupe rear seat bottom - they are wider and the structure is entirely different. Please keep in mind that because I didn't yet order new rear seat covers, I used the old coupe cover, with old foam... TEMPORARY PERMANENT

It's surprising how hard the sedan rear bottoms are to find.
One on left was completely falling apart, one on right was full of rat ****
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both sides are exactly the same
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made the center part out of some home remodel leftovers
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glued carpet on where the springs sit - factory used some soft stuff similar to what you would put under a residential carpet. I figured this was stronger
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Then I started to staple away, hard to get to the center springs. Factory also used staples. I recreated the gap at the bottom, both of my seats had it, maybe for fabric to have a place to fit
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There's 3-4 springs on the side that I could not get with my stapler, I just used cable hold downs. looks like **** but it's plenty strong, plus it's what I had on hand.
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test fitting - success
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Then came the temp job, used a towel instead of horsehair, and reused the coupe cover but tucked it in on the sides. Looks like crap but at least the seat functions for now.
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does anyone know where I can get the rubber piece that goes around the seat bottom ?
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I also started to working on a spare nose piece I have. Someone took a mid model one and added tabs (poorly) to make the late model grill fit

I got it sand blasted
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minor dent and the TERRIFIC job by previous owner
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PO also added a drain hole, theres some minor rust spots on bottom corner
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after primer I cut the tabs off and welded the holes, straightened out a few spots also
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quick primer before bondo
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bondo time

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left it at this; I need to go back and skim it again
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<a href="https://ibb.co/GWxTgcD"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/VgjmX2G/122.jpg" alt="122" border="0"></a>

Photo of one in action so I can pretend to be helpful
 
I may have that piece here, I think it's been moved 49 times around the garage. Is it the same as the 2 door version ?
 
Actually having drain holes will keep the water from just laying in the bottom of the nose piece and rotting, because it will drain out. I drilled three holes in mine right at the very lowest point, works well. JMO
 
Actually having drain holes will keep the water from just laying in the bottom of the nose piece and rotting, because it will drain out. I drilled three holes in mine right at the very lowest point, works well. JMO

I drilled a hole in the very center on the bottom at the lowest point of mine as well. I noticed it kept filling with water, not anymore!
 
I may have that piece here, I think it's been moved 49 times around the garage. Is it the same as the 2 door version ?

thank you for mailing it to me :cool:

Actually having drain holes will keep the water from just laying in the bottom of the nose piece and rotting, because it will drain out. I drilled three holes in mine right at the very lowest point, works well. JMO

I drilled a hole in the very center on the bottom at the lowest point of mine as well. I noticed it kept filling with water, not anymore!

but there's already a factory drain hole ?
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IN OTHER NEWS I MADE IT TO THE IPD CONTEST. I guess starting a thread paid off :oogle:

my entry. cast your votes https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/CZHMZSZ
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Hoopty With Sunset Plates

...new REM song title maybe

Nice :oogle:

today got headlight buckets and heater box powdercoated

the springs to adjust are a huge pain to install, I wonder how they did it at the factory. Took me forever to install them correctly

adjustment bolts, cleaned - you can see a dirty one
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these are the springs - make sure they are all facing this way
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done
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heater box
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what glue/adhesive do you use to secure all the heater box gaskets ?
 
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Same putty you use for the fenders.

RV Butyl tape, it's $10 for a roll that may be enough for the 55 heater boxes you now own.
 
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