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Volvo 245 engine refuse to run right properly

Volvotazz

New member
Joined
Mar 17, 2020
ENGINE REFUSES TO RUN.
92 2.0ltr toslanda estate
Ok engine ran fine 3 weeks ago, ran perfect never missed a beat.
Dropped car off at MOT centre for retest on stick handbrake.
MOT CENTRE rang say car was out fuel. (always had broken fuel gauge) but tank full.
Car would not start at centre with boost pack and sounded like out fuel.
Got car home (tow truck) and changed the following. Either had new parts already or order.
Each were changed to eliminate obvious.
Fuses checked, petrol in tank.
Fuel pump and filter. Fuel relay. (Done this before pulled rail off and checked fuel at engine)
Plugs, Plug leads, Coil, battery (had new spares to go on next service)
Crank position sensor.
Distributor cap and rotor
ECU x3
MAF ( NOT A OEM PART) but brand new. ( now swapped for a second hand MAF) x3
I checked fuel at rail pumped very quick, injectors all pumped fairly equal in jars, spark plugs all working fine.
I checked compression all good relative equal 150. Attached plug with spark plug tester all good. Checked injector noids all good. Done timing test TDC with screwdriver, distributor not moved but in correct location. No sign of belt damage or pulley balancer moved. When engine does run, TIMING light picks up markings on bottom pulley indicating correct timing. And all other markings in right positions.
Engine will run but briefly 20sec max and serious rough feathering throttle not to flood or loose fuel.
Then engine stalls and is almost like has flooded. Refuses to restart unless plugs removed and blown out (and is even a struggle to restart at that stage if starts at all)
Assuming all parts are good.
Changed maf for non oem , still nothing. So swapped for second hand one geniune still same issue.
Changed ignition amplifier. Still no change

1 car wont run in limp mode with New or old MAF installed.
2 on board computer SAY 121 when any MAF in(reset each time)
3 even a non OEM part should still work. Make engine run even rough or last a couple of weeks
4 is not ECU as surely this wont allow engine to run at all? Have changed 3 times now
5 car had small pool of water in passenger foot well not coolant or viper fluid 5 weeks and engine wont start thought was flat battery or radio left on ( fired straight away on jumper)assumed liquid had come in door seal in storm or could it have corroded a hole under cowl and be leaking rain water in, which in turn has corroded a wire or bridge two wires!!!!!!
I think is either a break in the loom wire some where but not sure how to check. Is either A break in CPS LOOM or MAF back to ECU. Just not sure how to check this.

How can I test wiring for CPS and MAF. What should I be looking for in a break or cross. No signs or breaks or corrosion . Am getting very frustrated. What should I be looking for at ECU.
 
OK well I would do a couple of mechanical checks. I would make sure the timing belt has not slipped a tooth or that the belt has become very loose from a slack tensioner. Verify the three timing marks and make sure the harmonic balancer aka crank pulley hasn't slipped.

To check the wiring you want to do continuity testing with an ohmmeter. You can remove the connectors at the ecu and EZK computers and verify the wiring has continuity to the sensors. A very long test lead can help. Peel back the boots and back probe the connections. Also be sure to verify the coolant temp sensor by measuring the resistance at the connector for the ecu and ezk. The sensor is a dual sensor and gives a signal to both the fuel computer and the ezk. An open sensor or open wiring will make the computer provide a super rich mixture which the engine won't run on. It should also set a code so you should check for coolant temp sensor code.

Another important check is fuel pressure. If it's too high from a bad pressure regulator. It will foul the plugs and make the mixture too rich to run.

I'm presuming you are working with LH2.4 system on your car.
 
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