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Old 02-28-2022, 01:42 PM   #1
Cybernesia
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Default Hood alignment / door trim / door lock issue questions

Yello all brickers,

Today I am trying to tighten up some stuff that's been urking me lately and wanted to see if anyone can help as I have tried with all my might and can't find solutions for these three things.

1. Hood alignment - Looks like my car has had a bunch of excitement before I was the proud owner and my front of the hood is aligned correctly but the back, near the windshield is raised about a half inch over where it should be. This is a replacement hood. Might not ever have been installed right. Any write ups for this anywhere or can anyone chime in?

2. I know its a long-shot but I am trying to find the silver window trim right below the passengers side back door for my 85 240 sedan. Wondering if a parts list exists to where it would be easier to pin point what exactly I need to replace this piece. Its just funny how much different the car looks like from the other side, it doesn't flow like the other.

3. I have a drivers door lock that will only fully unlock if I pull up more on the stem of the door lock. If i don't do this, it will remain locked even though engaged open. I have disassembled the door and couldn't find anything bent or anything and I lubed all the places that made sense to with white lithium grease but it didn't help the issue. Just wondering if this is a thing that happens on these cars or if this a one off and if so, what to do to troubleshoot it more.

Last edited by Cybernesia; 02-28-2022 at 03:20 PM.. Reason: updated stuff
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Old 02-28-2022, 04:54 PM   #2
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Hood high near windshield, either the hood is bent from bad hinges or the hinges are bent or both.
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Old 03-01-2022, 11:56 AM   #3
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This?

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Old 03-01-2022, 03:17 PM   #4
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yeap, just that little bugger. I am surprised how the rest of the trim stayed put for so long. I had to gorilla tape one of the other trim pieces on (to keep it stable) and never got around to finding out how to rehab the end bits.

Last edited by Cybernesia; 03-01-2022 at 03:25 PM..
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Old 03-01-2022, 03:26 PM   #5
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You'll probably have to source it used complete with the black cladding since the trim anchors have been NLA for quite some time.

We have a wanted forum for requests.

https://forums.turbobricks.com/newth...newthread&f=14

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Old 03-01-2022, 03:48 PM   #6
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There’s a write up somewhere on here about fixing a bent hood with a ladder and some lumber. Involves bracing the underside of the hood and using a ladder to strategically step on the outer hood skin and press it all back into shape along with the internal frame. I can’t seem to find it right now
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Old 03-01-2022, 04:02 PM   #7
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There’s a write up somewhere on here about fixing a bent hood with a ladder and some lumber. Involves bracing the underside of the hood and using a ladder to strategically step on the outer hood skin and press it all back into shape along with the internal frame. I can’t seem to find it right now
That sounds like the advice I gave to someone awhile back on how to straighten a hood that bent because of stuck hinges. If the back corner is up, it isn't due to a bent hood. It is a bent hinge causing the problem. There is a height adjustment bolt at the rear of the hinge that allows for ~ 1/2" of height adjustment overall. It that doesn't do it, the hinge needs to be replaced.
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Old 03-01-2022, 06:34 PM   #8
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Your advice might be the post I’m remembering. Had pictures showing where to place the lumber. I just can’t find it on my phone
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Old 03-02-2022, 12:22 PM   #9
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Thanks for the post 2manyturbos ; I have found those adjustment bolts and they are already the lowest they go. Radtap, sounds like a fun re-sculpting time! Let me know if you ever find it again as I would love to see the options. I have tried to look it up but came up nil.

Redwood Chair, thanks for the suggestion. I have posted it in the wanted section. I guess all these issues could be resolved by a little of the ol' rip and replace with another. Thanks for the input!
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Old 03-02-2022, 08:34 PM   #10
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Can't find the damn thread for the life of me. But heres another thread going over hinge problems. I'm not 100% sure but from what I remember you need to get a bunch of scrap lumber and place it inside the engine bay along the strut towers and anywhere else you'll be bending into shape, you actually use the lumber to support the outer hood skin, place a small step ladder at the front to give you better positioning and then slowly step on the hood corresponding to the internal support of the hood. You want to bend that support back into shape not the hood skin so you must be careful, the skin is much weaker than the support obviously. You may have to mark on the outside where the support is so you don't press where you don't want to.
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Old 03-04-2022, 03:30 PM   #11
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Silly question time:

Should I replace both at the same time (hood hinges) or can I see if a new one straightens out that side then grab another? Just thought I would ask.
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Old 03-04-2022, 04:13 PM   #12
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If the other side of the hood matches the fender and cowl as far as height is concerned, leave it alone.
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Old 03-04-2022, 07:09 PM   #13
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My money is on the driver side hinge is the problem, yes?
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Old 03-07-2022, 01:00 PM   #14
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So neither look "broke" upon further examination. the passenger side has a little play (set at half the up and down adjustment level) but the driver side is adjusted all the way down. I can kind of push it further down when its closed but then it doesn't stay that way. No big deal though, ill spray that passenger side with some PB buster and try to adjust it. Thanks for all of your help everyone.
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Old 03-22-2022, 11:59 AM   #15
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So i am starting to think that maybe the actuator in my door could be the issue. I am wondering if anyone has any ideas of cleaning it or pulling it apart to clean and inspect (the black piece connected to the rod). Picture of what im talking about below.



Any ideas are welcomed. I dont really want to buy new door guts or for that matter a whole door just to fix this lock issue. Thanks all!
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Old 03-22-2022, 02:41 PM   #16
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Wires shorting out on the ‘collar contact switch’ or in the driver door hinge from being flexed a bajillion times is common-enough.

If someone didn’t mangle the switch, liquid electrical tape is common to keep those wires isolated on those or re-solder different wires if you have more time than $?

Or live without the key collar switch that has rotting wiring on all of them by now if you pull apart a 240 driver door ‘81-‘93 / wire insulation that’s likely to flake off on removal & just use the lock button switch or install / setup/devise a keyless entry system idk?

If the power lock relay gets stuck on for any reason it can fry various lock motors too.

Later P80 cars have fragile over-temp fusible link lock motors…so the motor doesn’t catch fire or melt/short out anymore but the fuseable over-temp link fails instead, for better or worse…
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Old 03-22-2022, 05:13 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cybernesia View Post
So i am starting to think that maybe the actuator in my door could be the issue. I am wondering if anyone has any ideas of cleaning it or pulling it apart to clean and inspect (the black piece connected to the rod). Picture of what im talking about below.



Any ideas are welcomed. I dont really want to buy new door guts or for that matter a whole door just to fix this lock issue. Thanks all!
I’ve pulled many of those actuators from junkyards and most of the time the wires where they enter that black tube lose their coating and short out causing issues. Get a little jar or liquid electrical tape and slather it on there
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Old 03-22-2022, 06:16 PM   #18
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I’ve pulled many of those actuators from junkyards and most of the time the wires where they enter that black tube lose their coating and short out causing issues. Get a little jar or liquid electrical tape and slather it on there


That's a 1 in 100 replaced harness, and they were ~$300 from Volvo when you could still get the updated ones.
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Old 03-22-2022, 08:32 PM   #19
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That's a 1 in 100 replaced harness, and they were ~$300 from Volvo when you could still get the updated ones.
I wish my car’s POs had the harnesses replaced when Volvo was still doing that. Not ready to do another
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Old 03-22-2022, 08:38 PM   #20
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That actuator looks ok to me. I would first check the wires going through the A-pillar.
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Old 03-22-2022, 09:30 PM   #21
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That actuator looks ok to me. I would first check the wires going through the A-pillar.


That's a picture of a replacement harness with GXL wire.
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Old 03-23-2022, 09:15 AM   #22
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As that picture was posted by the OP, I thought it was the one he removed from his car. Back to the OP, either splice in new wire or lather with liquid tape ( not my favorite).
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Old 03-23-2022, 09:27 AM   #23
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As that picture was posted by the OP, I thought it was the one he removed from his car. Back to the OP, either splice in new wire or lather with liquid tape ( not my favorite).
Even the replacements have the casings fall off over time. I recently had trouble with one. I used permatex liquid tape(too runny and didnt work well). I just bought the liquid tape from harbor freight and that works a lot better(not runny like the permatex brand). It's better to take it off and do it outside of car. Use something to separate wires while you apply the liquid tape and itshould be good(doing one wire at a time and letting dry before moving to the next wire). If its completely fallen apart, then soldering new wires is the best bet.
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Old 03-23-2022, 04:41 PM   #24
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Volvo did sell replacements w/no rot wiring for a short time right before ‘king of NLA’ Fraud Mo. Co. really got their hooks into them to impose the American business model (yearly model change, just in time global supplies even more so, no more parts on the shelf for ~10-20+ years like the 140 days).

I wanna say they sold replacements w/good GXL wire from ~1998.5 (after the end of all conventional keys/key way locks /pre ‘tracked’ CNC machined ‘high security’ key RWD models)- ~2004.

Must have finally ran out of all the rot prone collar switch/driver door assemblies they probably ordered/installed millions of right up to the bitter end of RWD?

Power locks became standard for USA models (even on stripper DLs) starting in ‘81 model year, kicking things off right in sync w/the worst bio-degrader wiring on the Volvos

They probably made up/ordered up another several hundred thousand to 1+ million of the stupid things right in 1980 for the USA market coinciding w/the bad wiring based on projected sales #s/economies of scale (knowing Volvo?) & installed them right thru the last of the 1993 model year cars we got in the USA?

Apart from it being last minute too expensive to fit a new USA federal-mandate passenger air bag/redesign the 240 dash for that, the plan had been to keep making 240s 1994+ As the loss leader/inexpensive timeless dated base model car.

That, and they needed more room to make wrong wheel drives & the 240 tooling (some of which was from 1974!) was pretty worn out by then to keep whacking out 240s & production line/methods were too labor intensive compared to s new line/more automation & robots & time savings plonking an engine cradle in from the bottom that has the trans axle+ motor bolted up for WWD ****boxes / ‘snap together’ later cars that pop outta the automated gumball machine if you will?

& then no-more redblocks after OB2 mandate +stricter emissions for CARB + Fed finally finished them off in 1995.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

As to hood hinges, remove them from the car (put a moving blanket in the corner of the engine bay to catch the hood & prop the hood up with a stick or something?) & disassemble them one at a time w/hood propped up or something , clean/remove all the corrosion, straighten them if not too fatigued & free them up with some fresh heated moly grease injected into them with some light tool oil/ATF & re-assemble & straighten the hood?

Often neglected item, water often runs down & washes the grease out of the lower pivot, the way they’re designed the pivots kinda in single shear?

The 140s don’t have this problem the way the hinges are mounted for water intrusion & longer dimensions etc, but the 240 hood is a lot longer & heavier & hinges are designed to prevent the hood from coming through the windshield in a wreck @ the back corners & the hood is designed to bend/crumple & absorb energy in a wreck?

What does this mean for hood hinge longevity on the revised 240 design compared to the clean slate 140 design?

More compact weaker hinges water runs down over, heavier longer hood on the ‘revised’ 1974+ 240 ‘safety nose’ model with bracing up front w/hinges with less mechanical advantage & hood that’s designed to bend/crumple that can become arched or bent if the hinges run dry/bind up, particularly closing the hood…

You can still buy new 240 hood hinges from the dealer in primer if yours aren’t savable/straighten-able & too fatigued such that they’re likely to snap or pivots are worn/loose & about to let go.
Or used ideally in your color if you’ve got a common color like 189 white ‘83-‘93…
…or de-grease & paint them for .17c/hr or live w/the mis-match being this is cheap/lazy TB I suppose?

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Old 03-30-2022, 03:45 PM   #25
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* not my actual actuator above, just used a picture for reference.

My question is more that I have some play that I have to pull up on the latch everytime I unlock the car from the outside. I hope to find how to correct said problem. I have bought the liquid electrical tape and will be doing that today or tomorrow to fix the faulty wires but could that cause a problem like the one I have?

Thanks all!
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