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no crank after engine swap

J

j.haded

New member
Joined
Jul 16, 2014
Location
NH
hey guys, so I'm wrapping up my engine swap, i put a b230ft from a 91 940 se into a 93 n/a 240. when I put the key to ignition there is no crank, all the dash lights light up. I did do the block mount distributor swap, put in a brand new crank position sensor, the motor was never removed from the transmission, I swapped the injectors to the right resistance, swapped both the ignition and fuel ecu from the 940, I verified via the 240 via that it had lh 2.4 along with the 940. I was looking for ideas of what would keep the engine from cranking over?
 
Do you have switched 12v at the starter?
If not, where is the last place,after the ignition switch, that voltage is present?
 
I'll assume that you re-used the 240 engine wiring harness, correct?

What does the engine harness to cabin connector look like? It should be either a skinny long white connector, 2x12 pins, or a rectangular white connector, 3x4 pins, and will be near the ECU/EZK connectors.

The starter wire comes from the ignition switch, through the automatic transmission shifter Park/Neutral interlock switch to the starter. For manual, the P/N interlock has a jumper instead. If you have the skinny long white connector, the starter wire goes through it and on to the starter. If you have the rectangular white connector, then I think the starter wire goes instead through a big gray 2x4 pin connector in the middle of the bulkhead.

Note: if you're using the turbo ECU, then the WOT switch wire on the throttle body needs to be cut (it's used in NA wiring harnesses but causes problems for turbo).
 
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Test lamp- illuminate when key is turned to crank? Test at the thin signal wire to the starter.

Did you put it on the correct starter terminal?
 
ZVOLV said:
Test lamp- illuminate when key is turned to crank? Test at the thin signal wire to the starter.

Did you put it on the correct starter terminal?
Click to expand...

Goes on the one marked 30 or is it 54?
A certain somebody just did that on a certain 240 out in my garage...much swearing ensued till somebody pointed that out to the other guy...
 
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If you look at the starter as mounted on the engine. The yellow/blue wire goes to the inner terminal on the solenoid. If you still don't crank I would trace out the wire from the ignition switch through the interior till it comes out to the starter. Test that the wire gets power to crank the starter with a test light.
 
It goes to the outer terminal. The inner terminal is/was for the coil wire to give it a full 12+ volts for starting. The later mini starter solenoids don't even have an inner terminal. 1 terminal only. That's why the OP can't get it mixed up. There is only one wire, the blue/yellow wire and one terminal on a 1993 240.
 
There's a remote starter contact at the firewall. You can check to see if power is getting to the starter wire from the ignition switch as well as activate the starter from this contact.

StarterContact.jpg


Be sure the car is in neutral if it has a manual transmission before applying power to the contact. The correct terminal is the one circled in green.

StarterSolenoid.gif


The other terminal is used to bypass the ballast resistor to the coil while starting which was only used on cars with breakerless ignition.

StartingCircuits1.jpg
 
2manyturbos said:
There aren?t 2 small wires at the starter. That was on earlier 240s. There is nothing there to reverse.
Click to expand...

2manyturbos said:
It goes to the outer terminal. The inner terminal is/was for the coil wire to give it a full 12+ volts for starting. The later mini starter solenoids don't even have an inner terminal. 1 terminal only. That's why the OP can't get it mixed up. There is only one wire, the blue/yellow wire and one terminal on a 1993 240.
Click to expand...

... OK, nobody can screw up two terminals, one wire. Big assumption that the starter is the one from the factory
 
The only assumption I’m making is the obvious should be obvious to somebody. If there’s never been a wire connected to one of those terminals there will be be no marks on it and it will be covered with grease and dirt. The one that had the wire connected to it will clearly have the imprint of the connector being on it. However, that’s just me from doing this stuff nearly every day of the week for the last 25 years. Your results may vary.
 
hey guys, thanks for all the replies. I'm waiting out the weather to get out to the car and do some more troubleshooting. to answer some of the questions above. I did not transfer the engine harness, the one in the car is the original. I did not know about the WOT wire I have to cut, I will have to look into that. once I get to the car I gunna check for power at the starter and go from there. I was concerned about the transmission maybe not being in park (its an auto) but I cant move the lever from park and I also tried the override button also.
 
j.haded said:
I was concerned about the transmission maybe not being in park (its an auto) but I cant move the lever from park and I also tried the override button also.
Click to expand...

You need to be very sure that the engine can turn over by hand before you go any further.
 
^^ What he said. If you didn’t line up the torque converter properly it may be seated right against the pump drive tangs that are supposed to engage the slots in the snout of the converter. If that is the case, the engine/trans is locked up. It has happened to many members here.
 
j.haded said:
hey guys, thanks for all the replies. I'm waiting out the weather to get out to the car and do some more troubleshooting. to answer some of the questions above. I did not transfer the engine harness, the one in the car is the original. I did not know about the WOT wire I have to cut, I will have to look into that. once I get to the car I gunna check for power at the starter and go from there. I was concerned about the transmission maybe not being in park (its an auto) but I cant move the lever from park and I also tried the override button also.
Click to expand...

940 has some sort of lock on the shifter once it is in park. With my Father's 940 from memory if I want to roll it forward without starting I need to be in key position 1 and brake pedal depressed to move the shifter to neutral. But it has been a long time so I may not have the sequence right, and don't know if it is relevant to a 940 drivetrain in a 240 shell.

2manyturbos said:
^^ What he said. If you didn’t line up the torque converter properly it may be seated right against the pump drive tangs that are supposed to engage the slots in the snout of the converter. If that is the case, the engine/trans is locked up. It has happened to many members here.
Click to expand...

Original post - motor and gearbox were never separated.
 
pshnfry said:
940 has some sort of lock on the shifter once it is in park.
Click to expand...

j.haded said:
I was concerned about the transmission maybe not being in park (its an auto) but I cant move the lever from park and I also tried the override button also.
Click to expand...

pshnfry said:
Original post - motor and gearbox were never separated.
Click to expand...

Yeah, well... He can't move the shifter out of park - even using the override. So, it is a valid thing to mention.
 
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