Drunk_Babies
Member
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2020
- Location
- Spokane WA
1988 LH2.2 B230F+T. Originally had T cam in, trying to get this car to run with the IPD turbo cam.
Ran smooth as butter with the T cam, standard timing with the crank keyway lined up with the rib, cam gear mark lined up, and intermediate gear lined up.
With that same setup, only changing to the IPD turbo cam it barely runs- very rough, not able to rev up past ~3k. Only measured 75# of compression on cylinder 1.
One thing I never changed was my shims- and I noticed while removing the T cam that I had zero tolerance on all of my valves. Originally had 4.05m shims, swapped to 3.3m. Now the cylinder two and three valves have nearly .030" of clearance (too much, I know) but cylinders one and four are still at zero- I can't get my smallest gauge in there. Do I just swap the 4.05mm shims back in and run it? Seems very strange to have such a wide variation between valves, and I can't even get a smaller shim than 3.3mm.
I did try offsetting the cam gear 1-2 teeth so the crank pulley mark is at -10 before TDC and it brought cylinder 1 up to 125#. I'm not entirely sure what this means but it did run better with this setup, but still stumbles past 3k rpm.
I've also verified the distributor's rotor is lined up with the #1 plug at TDC, and rotated to test throughout the entire range of ignition timing adjustment. Fully advanced seems to run best.
Ran smooth as butter with the T cam, standard timing with the crank keyway lined up with the rib, cam gear mark lined up, and intermediate gear lined up.
With that same setup, only changing to the IPD turbo cam it barely runs- very rough, not able to rev up past ~3k. Only measured 75# of compression on cylinder 1.
One thing I never changed was my shims- and I noticed while removing the T cam that I had zero tolerance on all of my valves. Originally had 4.05m shims, swapped to 3.3m. Now the cylinder two and three valves have nearly .030" of clearance (too much, I know) but cylinders one and four are still at zero- I can't get my smallest gauge in there. Do I just swap the 4.05mm shims back in and run it? Seems very strange to have such a wide variation between valves, and I can't even get a smaller shim than 3.3mm.
I did try offsetting the cam gear 1-2 teeth so the crank pulley mark is at -10 before TDC and it brought cylinder 1 up to 125#. I'm not entirely sure what this means but it did run better with this setup, but still stumbles past 3k rpm.
I've also verified the distributor's rotor is lined up with the #1 plug at TDC, and rotated to test throughout the entire range of ignition timing adjustment. Fully advanced seems to run best.