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Old 05-25-2010, 04:40 PM   #226
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Originally Posted by Mylesofsmyles View Post
spoke to the folks at Groton. they are familiar with the e-fan conversion.

the tech rep I spoke with suggested I use fan switch #1274962; it'll fit the radiator like stock and should start the fan in time...

http://auto-parts.fcpgroton.com/sear...?query=1274962
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=160300 saab sender :P much better location because it checks the temp of water coming out of the rad.
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Old 05-25-2010, 06:20 PM   #227
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http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=160300 saab sender :P much better location because it checks the temp of water coming out of the rad.
wouldn't it be ideal to check temp of the hot water, not cool water? the water coming out of the radiator should be cooler than the engine, right? it's going into the engine to help cool it...wouldn't the water coming in be a better representation of engine temp? then again, I guess if the water you're feeding your engine is too hot, it'd be a good opportunity to turn up the fan.
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Old 05-26-2010, 01:03 AM   #228
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Well Your engine is going to spew out hot water out of the thermostat (assuming you have one) at its rated temp that your thermostat opens (again assuming that you have a thermostat that opens at a certain temp say 190') If your thermostat switch is placed before it goes to the radiator, hot water would continue to come out of the engine thermostat via the vent orifice causing the sender/switch to trigger the fan for a period of possibly 30 min or longer and cause a flat battery. (the fan can cause a drain of 15-25 amps. while in operation)

After the radiator is the best place for a fan switch.

After the engine is the best place for a Temp Gauge.
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Old 05-26-2010, 02:37 PM   #229
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I'm looking at doing the E-fan conversion - just curious which model Saabs surrender the sender unit & carrier.Sadly walk-in scrap yards are becoming a rare commodity and the one nearest me doesn't have much in the way of Saabs so if I can ring around with a vague inkling which to look for it'll be a time saver, many thanks,
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Old 05-26-2010, 03:22 PM   #230
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Originally Posted by mickeys240 View Post
Well Your engine is going to spew out hot water out of the thermostat (assuming you have one) at its rated temp that your thermostat opens (again assuming that you have a thermostat that opens at a certain temp say 190') If your thermostat switch is placed before it goes to the radiator, hot water would continue to come out of the engine thermostat via the vent orifice causing the sender/switch to trigger the fan.

After the radiator is the best place for a fan switch.
This. Basically in the top of the rad makes it run more then is needed.

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I'm looking at doing the E-fan conversion - just curious which model Saabs surrender the sender unit & carrier.Sadly walk-in scrap yards are becoming a rare commodity and the one nearest me doesn't have much in the way of Saabs so if I can ring around with a vague inkling which to look for it'll be a time saver, many thanks,
Think it's a mid 80s 900 series.
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Old 05-27-2010, 12:45 PM   #231
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Just installed a 900 e-fan. The switching is wired from a key-on fuse (3?) to a switch in the radiator's factory location to a 30 amp relay. Works perfect.

The next task will be wiring it as a true 2-speed. Not that I need it, if the fan is run without the switch as a key-on only, the car won't fully warm up.
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Old 05-27-2010, 04:07 PM   #232
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Odd, it should still warm up fine as the temp switch should control the fan operation and that should matter little based on if it's wired as hot all the time or not.
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Old 05-27-2010, 10:57 PM   #233
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Yeah, I run the e-fan in my 245 on low with a switched ignition trigger, and I have no problems with warmup.
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Old 05-28-2010, 09:26 AM   #234
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Yeah, I run the e-fan in my 245 on low with a switched ignition trigger, and I have no problems with warmup.
Cool, I am glad to hear you don't have warm-up problems - I am going to hook it up as a 2-speed with low as ignition and high as temp switched, along with a pusher fan for AC use in traffic.

Then, for the winter I'll think about putting in a switch to kill the low-speed fan in case I need it for warm-up.
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Old 05-29-2010, 01:38 AM   #235
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I will hopefully be doing this tomorrow -- I've got that Jegs e-fan I got from Steve and I need to swap out my radiator, I figure why not?

Any problems with wiring it to run at key position II (run), rather than on a temperature sensor? I was thinking of wiring it to a switch on the dash but knowing my luck, my mom would forget to turn the fan on

Also, any suggestions for relays or sensors to grab while I'm there? I want to minimize stops if I can and I figure there'll be tons of relays I could possibly use -- any specific ones you guys know of?
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Old 05-29-2010, 03:00 PM   #236
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I will hopefully be doing this tomorrow -- I've got that Jegs e-fan I got from Steve and I need to swap out my radiator, I figure why not?

Any problems with wiring it to run at key position II (run), rather than on a temperature sensor? I was thinking of wiring it to a switch on the dash but knowing my luck, my mom would forget to turn the fan on

Also, any suggestions for relays or sensors to grab while I'm there? I want to minimize stops if I can and I figure there'll be tons of relays I could possibly use -- any specific ones you guys know of?
the fan relay from an 850 worked like gold for me...i can choose between high speed and low speed, depending on which of the two leads off the relay I use...most convenient and $free.99 at the jy along with associated wiring. I dunno how this will do with your Jegs Fan; I used the 850 fan set to low. It comes on right at 9-o'clock, but I want to switch to a high temp thermostat and then get a Saab lower radiator fan switch. If I were really cool, I'd leave the fan switch in the radiator and use that as my high speed switch...maybe, dunno what I'm really talking about.

Good luck, it's a nice lil upgrage!

Oh, how u gonna wire it to the ignition? I wanna do this, cuz now the fan will do it's own thing regardless of the ignition position.
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Old 05-29-2010, 10:04 PM   #237
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Picked up a saab temperature sender, as well as something like 5or 6 12v 40a relays from 940s. I wanna know how to wire up the saab thing -- does it just work on resistance or something?

edit\\

more importantly, how can I tell what temperature the sensor kicks on/off at? I can get pictures of it. junkyard part.


edit\\ nevermind

actually read the sensor, it's a 110/115. guess i'm just wiring the fan to ignition on until I can get a sensor for it.

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Old 05-30-2010, 02:03 AM   #238
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Picked up a saab temperature sender, as well as something like 5or 6 12v 40a relays from 940s. I wanna know how to wire up the saab thing -- does it just work on resistance or something?

edit\\

more importantly, how can I tell what temperature the sensor kicks on/off at? I can get pictures of it. junkyard part.


edit\\ nevermind

actually read the sensor, it's a 110/115. guess i'm just wiring the fan to ignition on until I can get a sensor for it.
u got the 940 fan relay?

i don't think wiring the saab switch should be any different from wiring the volvo radiator fan switch. one lead from the relay to the switch, then ground the other prong on the switch.
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Old 05-30-2010, 03:57 AM   #239
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I don't know if it's a 940 fan relay, i can always look up the part numbers tomorrow. I have five of the damned things...

yeah, i figured that the saab switch is non-polar considering the fact that it's not marked as such, so it can be wired either way.
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Old 05-30-2010, 10:30 AM   #240
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Originally Posted by thebornotaku View Post
Picked up a saab temperature sender, as well as something like 5or 6 12v 40a relays from 940s. I wanna know how to wire up the saab thing -- does it just work on resistance or something?

edit\\

more importantly, how can I tell what temperature the sensor kicks on/off at? I can get pictures of it. junkyard part.


edit\\ nevermind

actually read the sensor, it's a 110/115. guess i'm just wiring the fan to ignition on until I can get a sensor for it.
Use the sensor from the radiator, not the T fitting going to the thermostart
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Old 05-30-2010, 12:53 PM   #241
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Use the sensor from the radiator, not the T fitting going to the thermostart
my radiator doesn't have a port for a thermal switch.
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Old 05-30-2010, 02:21 PM   #242
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my radiator doesn't have a port for a thermal switch.
Use a Saab thingy. Works well. Reasons I can see for not wanting it to run anytime the car is running is 1 noise, 2 Life of the fan, 3 draw on alt (which is probably 70 amp in your car), 4 might keep the car from warming up as quickly
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Old 05-30-2010, 02:40 PM   #243
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Use a Saab thingy. Works well. Reasons I can see for not wanting it to run anytime the car is running is 1 noise, 2 Life of the fan, 3 draw on alt (which is probably 70 amp in your car), 4 might keep the car from warming up as quickly
I was going to run a saab dealio.

Noise I'm not so worried about, and I'm not planning on running it like this for long. I just need to get my old rad out (well, it's out now actually) and I figured while it's apart, I could install the fan.

I also don't mind it taking a bit longer to warm up, as it's gonna be summer soon and I intend to have it wired properly within the next month or two.

any suggestions as to where I can get a saab sensor with a reasonable temperature range, like 95-90 or something instead of the 115-110 one I have?
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Old 05-30-2010, 03:11 PM   #244
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I was going to run a saab dealio.

Noise I'm not so worried about, and I'm not planning on running it like this for long. I just need to get my old rad out (well, it's out now actually) and I figured while it's apart, I could install the fan.

I also don't mind it taking a bit longer to warm up, as it's gonna be summer soon and I intend to have it wired properly within the next month or two.

any suggestions as to where I can get a saab sensor with a reasonable temperature range, like 95-90 or something instead of the 115-110 one I have?
Amazon has them, I posted a link for one but i think you could go up to the next step in temp
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Old 05-30-2010, 03:39 PM   #245
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Amazon has them, I posted a link for one but i think you could go up to the next step in temp
I did an amazon search and nothing turned up.

Swedishiron has some for sale in his FS thread, maybe I'll see about getting some monies so I can pick one up.

Figure I should run a 92-87?
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Old 05-31-2010, 01:57 AM   #246
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Well Your engine is going to spew out hot water out of the thermostat (assuming you have one) at its rated temp that your thermostat opens (again assuming that you have a thermostat that opens at a certain temp say 190') If your thermostat switch is placed before it goes to the radiator, hot water would continue to come out of the engine thermostat via the vent orifice causing the sender/switch to trigger the fan for a period of possibly 30 min or longer and cause a flat battery. (the fan can cause a drain of 15-25 amps. while in operation)

After the radiator is the best place for a fan switch.

After the engine is the best place for a Temp Gauge.

I also wanted to add that if you get low on coolant, You could face a thermal runaway if water is not transferring enough heat to activate the sensor. Especially of your sensor is mounted on top and then the only medium of heat transfer to activate the switch would be steam. (or air at that point.)

Summery, and words of wisdom. Place it on the bottom of the radiator, with the switch being placed upside down ONLY IF YOU HAVE CLEARANCE TO DO SO.

Otherwise place the sensor according to the manufactures instructions. Oddly, I have came across a few that say that they work best being placed on top. Weird if you know how these devices work. Orientation IMO should not effect function.
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Old 06-01-2010, 04:32 PM   #247
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Rock auto
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BECK/ARNLEY Part # 2010809 More Info
2 Prong Switch 92 Degrees, Standard Climates
92/87 switch (might do this, few $ cheaper on rock auto but i have amazon prime so I'd get it there)

Rock auto says
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BECK/ARNLEY Part # 2011545
2 Prong Switch 82 Degrees, Warmer Climates
82/77 switch (again a bit cheaper on rock auto ymmv)

Honestly picking between the 2 I am not 100% sure which you should get, I have the 82/77 and I think I might try a 92/87 just to see if it makes the fan run less (though that might not be ideal for obvious reasons)
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Old 06-02-2010, 05:51 PM   #248
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Just got my E-fan hooked up. I have a 960 dual speed fan wired up to constant 12v from the coil. It runs low speed only. I noticed that my rad has a fitting for a temp sensor in it. I will plan on using the 960 2 speed relay I grabbed from the jy. Right now just running a 940 12v 40A relay. I need to figure out what sensor will fit the port.
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Old 06-03-2010, 03:20 AM   #249
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my 242 has had it's e-fan for the past week...grantid, I haven't driven the car in that time due to some u-joint failure. with it in the shoppe, i've tested the radiator mount fan switch by running the car at idle...when it's warmed up i watch the gauge to see when the fan comes on. before the conversion, my car was a good hour and a half below 9-o'clock. now it gets much, much closer to 9-o'clock, with the fan coming on just north of that.

after reading the posts in this thread, i was worried that the fan would come on much, much too soon. that the hot water from my thermostat would shoot out onto the fan switch and force it on all the time. seems to be working just right...maybe it'll be different in the real world. also now seeing how a fan switch indicator light on the dash would be useful. my dad's '84 ferrari 308 had a fan light, and i think it's been the only car I've seen with one...now i get it. :D
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Old 06-03-2010, 12:03 PM   #250
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Originally Posted by WindowsBreakerG4 View Post
Odd, it should still warm up fine as the temp switch should control the fan operation and that should matter little based on if it's wired as hot all the time or not.
It won't get over about 165. I have really good coolant flow, 3 row, no heater core (direct coolant between 3 and 4 at the head) and no intercooler or condenser in the way. But you must have missed where I don't have a temp switch, it's key-on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thebornotaku View Post
my radiator doesn't have a port for a thermal switch.
Use the Saab method, it works.

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Originally Posted by WindowsBreakerG4 View Post
Use a Saab thingy. Works well. Reasons I can see for not wanting it to run anytime the car is running is 1 noise, 2 Life of the fan, 3 draw on alt (which is probably 70 amp in your car), 4 might keep the car from warming up as quickly
This. I will be switching mine soon enough, I don't like it running all the time.

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Originally Posted by mickeys240 View Post
I also wanted to add that if you get low on coolant, You could face a thermal runaway if water is not transferring enough heat to activate the sensor. Especially of your sensor is mounted on top and then the only medium of heat transfer to activate the switch would be steam. (or air at that point.)

Summery, and words of wisdom. Place it on the bottom of the radiator, with the switch being placed upside down ONLY IF YOU HAVE CLEARANCE TO DO SO.

Otherwise place the sensor according to the manufactures instructions. Oddly, I have came across a few that say that they work best being placed on top. Weird if you know how these devices work. Orientation IMO should not effect function.
Why mount it upside down? There is no real reason for that.

Mounting in the top of the radiator has the best control for even coolant temps in the system. If the coolant is low then you need to fix your leak! Don't band-aid the car for a problem, fix it properly.





I have a 92 degree switch going in a Saab adaptor and an 82 degree switch going in the radiator. The redundant system will protect if a switch fails or a motor speed fails (happened on my Knoxville trip).

It will be wired in a fairly safe fashion- a 30 amp relay controls the main power to the Volvo 2 speed relay, key-on. The power will run from that relay to the Volvo relay, fan power will be triggered by the 82 degree switch for low speed, 92 for high. That's how it was in my last 2 cars and it worked just fine. Never got hot and the fan didn't run too much.



ALDEN- I have a spare NIB 92 switch, you can have it if you want to try it. I don't think I would go lower on your car, I don't think you are running too cold. What's your operating temp at cruise with the fan off?
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