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Narrowing an 8.8... prefered methods

Hank Scorpio

Chubfest 2009 Survivor
300+ Club
So on the docket for winter projects is narrowing the 8.8 for the 245.

What's the consensus for a guy with a chop saw and average to mediocre welding abilities:

1. Drill the plug welds at the pumpkin, press the tube out, shorten and reinstall? (Looks cleanest and most difficult)

2. Whack it in the middle of the tube, shorten and reweld. (looks easiest, least OEM and biggest chance of screwing up the alignment).

3. Thought I saw somewhere they made replacement weld on ends, just whack the tube at the end and weld new ends on where needed.

Seems like I've seen mostly #2 around here. Just curious what people are going with.
 
My method. Turn a PC of 2.5 steel pipe down, it's not very much to just slip inside the tube. After turning I cut a slit about 1 inch wide and place it on the bottom for the oil to flow out to the bearing. I cut the tube where is convient and insert the pipe while also using 2 pcs of angle on the outside to line them up too. Tack in four places, remove angle and burn in making sure some of the weld get to the sleeve on the inside

I've done this to several rearend and twice on my own axle and the rear alignment specs are within a 1/4 degree. Should take less than a half hour once the inner sleeve is done
 
Cut end off and weld new end on. You can make a jig to hold it strait and true.

New aftermarket end or option 2b.

My method. Turn a PC of 2.5 steel pipe down, it's not very much to just slip inside the tube. After turning I cut a slit about 1 inch wide and place it on the bottom for the oil to flow out to the bearing. I cut the tube where is convient and insert the pipe while also using 2 pcs of angle on the outside to line them up too. Tack in four places, remove angle and burn in making sure some of the weld get to the sleeve on the inside

I've done this to several rearend and twice on my own axle and the rear alignment specs are within a 1/4 degree. Should take less than a half hour once the inner sleeve is done

This makes a lot of sense to me except I don't have a lathe. I was kind of thinking "gee I could just CNC a big ass MDF log to shove, weld then burn it out".

But I like the idea of having a steel pipe in there to span the joint.
 
I can turn you a pc. That would be no problem at all. The trick is to scribe the axle prior to cutting so it's clocked correctly. And I use a fine line sharpy and a pipe wrap to make the cut lines
 
I can turn you a pc. That would be no problem at all. The trick is to scribe the axle prior to cutting so it's clocked correctly. And I use a fine line sharpy and a pipe wrap to make the cut lines

That would be great Nathan!

Let me know how much for the sleeve. (honestly, there's no rush, this probably won't happen till after the first of the year... maybe).
 
Option 3. Strange sells the housing ends for $90. The nice thing about this is that you can get them sized for bigger bearings.

Also, if you're up to it do what Ford should have done and weld the tubes to the housing.
 
This has multiple threads already in existance. But to me the most logical way was to cut the end and shorten it to use two passenger axles.
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New? As in brand new?

Source?

I've seen the fixtures, pricey in the $500 range...something I doubt any TB'ers have gone out and bought :)

You can buy new ends from lots of sources. Or reattach old one. You can make a jig for cheap with a little ingenuity and some strait pipe
 
How much power do you plan to throw at it? Do you really need 9" ends? Do you plan on drag racing competitively?

All questions I asked before I cut up my 8.8. I did a ton of research on the subject, I probably spent 10-15 just scouring the internet on how people shorten them. In the end, I took a $125 complete axle from the yard, cut it with a sawzall and welded it back together. It made a trip from Charleston, SC to Atlanta, GA and back with zero issues. I probably have close to 3000 mi. on it over the summer.

I measured more than a few times, scribed the tube for alignment and then cut out the measured difference between the 2 factory axles just before it tapers down on the end. I was able to jig it back in place with multiple pieces of angle iron and some hose clamps.

You can't take enough out of the driver's side on the end, you will hit the taper before you get to the ~ 2 13/16" mark you need to remove. I cut right after the taper on the end and beveled the cut for welding. Drilling out the plugs is only part of the process, you still need to remove the tube, cut it and then put it back into the housing. I read somewhere that the ends are tapered slightly to allow them to be pressed into the housing at which point I decided against it. Might have been folklore, but I knew I could cut and weld it, pressing it back into the housing would have been much much harder.

As far as 9" ends, I figured I could always add them later should I choose to, or even a c-clip elim kit. I only go to the track for fun and the tech inspection is non-existent. For test and tune they should have no issues with a c-clip rear axle. With the 300 ft lb. the engine currently makes, I am confident in the rear holding the power and the unknown mileage trac-lok is working as designed.

I guess in the end, my message is, don't over think it. Measure, measure, measure, cut, and weld. If you take your time, it will turn out fine and you will have a reliable, strong rear axle.

One thing I will suggest, remove the center pin bolt in the yard. It will save you the trouble of buying a new carrier when the bolt shears and you are stuck ruining a carrier just to remove the axles. Also, take the driver's axle back for a core when you grab the passenger one. There is satisfaction in sliding the axle in the shortened side the first time and it fitting in perfectly.

I also did a write up on adapting the factory cables to the ford parking brakes. It is in the performance section.
 
This has multiple threads already in existance. But to me the most logical way was to cut the end and shorten it to use two passenger axles.


Ya. Option 2. I've read all the posts, that seems to be the the consensus. Again, I understand using the shorter axle, that really wasn't in contention here.

Just curious if there were other options.

Nathan's idea I think is the money for my skill set. Anything to help build in some redundancy for me is good. Lots of wood skills, basic fab skills but my welding is 50/50.
 
I agree. Keep it simple. Now, my rear has a tq arm that tied into the diff cover and I do have 9 inch bearing ends with chromo axles, but each tube has had some work on it and is holding just fine with the method I described.

Plus, when I turn the pipe for you I can leave a little spot in the middle that will space the tubes 1/16 so you get penetration in everything
 
I did option 1. It's easy except pressing the axle tube back in, which is no picnic. I don't recommend it. Apparently rob tried it back in the day and cracked the pumpkin trying to press the tube in.

If doing it today, I'd cut the axle tube where the taper starts, shorten it, and weld the end back on. If you scribe a line on the axle tube and keep fit aligned in the saw, it'll be square.

Cut in the middle with an alignment sleeve would be fine of course, too.
 
I agree. Keep it simple. Now, my rear has a tq arm that tied into the diff cover and I do have 9 inch bearing ends with chromo axles, but each tube has had some work on it and is holding just fine with the method I described.

Plus, when I turn the pipe for you I can leave a little spot in the middle that will space the tubes 1/16 so you get penetration in everything

You said penetration.

Beavis_and_Butt-Head.jpg
 
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