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Old 06-08-2016, 09:46 PM   #1
nuclearj
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Default Clutch Cable - What did I do wrong?

So, I've been having difficulty getting the car into gear. After tightening a non OEM clutch cable a few times over a year, I decide to swap it out for a OEM one. It was awesome for about 3 weeks and then I started having difficulty getting the car into gear! Mostly 2nd is the toughest.

What gives? Here a picture of it I just took. It looks like it loosened somehow.

Thanks for the help!



https://goo.gl/photos/Q8vMnRdfSBakr1fZ7
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Old 06-09-2016, 01:18 AM   #2
sim
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I believe there were two lengths of clutch cable over the years. It may be that only the long one remains.

From your picture, the adjuster looks maxed out (and then some).

I fixed a similar problem with a spacer at the clutch fork end.

IIRC, it was about an inch thick.
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Old 06-09-2016, 01:27 AM   #3
hiperfauto
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Check the firewall plate where the cable goes through. It might look like this.

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Old 06-09-2016, 01:46 AM   #4
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The dealer sells the plastic adjuster cables now
They are all the horrible spawn of satan/anti-christ (or whatever euphemism for pure-evil you wish) and are likely to pull through the firewall or damage other parts at best.

You'd literally be better off with a used greasy metal jacket old style OE that feels good/nice and light pedal feel and hasn't scraped through the teflon/nylon liner and/or frayed significantly with with likely 100K+ miles on it.

I hoard all the old style metal jacket cables I see now for either 140 or 240 if they are any damn good. I can't really justify coming off one I don't think. I own 3 stick shift cars, though I think you might be able to get the Diesel cable in metal jacket style still (different pedal/attachment), which is good since 1/3 is diesel.

Some odd-ball intercooled '84 240T have a stiffer pressure plate unusual clutch but flat flywheel still. Those had a slightly different cable IIRC, also NLA. I'm hoarding both the cable and that clutch in nice shape.
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Old 06-09-2016, 08:30 AM   #5
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I compared the cable to what I took off and they were both the same size. Also, the fire wall looks fine like wine. I am going to screw it back in and see what happens.

https://goo.gl/photos/QAYfqFFF6NVdMHCTA

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Old 06-09-2016, 08:42 AM   #6
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Put a tiny hose clamp on it so it doesn't unwind, and a spare in the trunk.

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Old 06-09-2016, 08:46 AM   #7
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I will try that out. I couldn't turn the bottom screw as it just unwound back. So then I tried turning the "nut" at the fire wall and that seems to have the shifting better. I'm off to work to see how it goes.

Thanks for the help everyone!

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Put a tiny hose clamp on it so it doesn't unwind, and a spare in the trunk.

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Old 06-09-2016, 02:33 PM   #8
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Nah, those plastic adjuster cables stretch and bind from day 1. Looks like both are that style. You poor bastard.

The latest addition to the fleet came in with one of those horrible things on it. Makes the car basically undrive-able. Used OE metal sheath cable = perfect or "pretty good."
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Old 06-09-2016, 08:57 PM   #9
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So where does one get the metal sheath cable. I thought these OEMs were the ones to get? So what your saying is there are two different types of OEM cables?

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Originally Posted by Kjets On a Plane View Post
Nah, those plastic adjuster cables stretch and bind from day 1. Looks like both are that style. You poor bastard.

The latest addition to the fleet came in with one of those horrible things on it. Makes the car basically undrive-able. Used OE metal sheath cable = perfect or "pretty good."
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Old 06-10-2016, 12:45 PM   #10
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Used older style OE or NOS in a dusty bag that's been on a shelf forever somewhere? Good luck.
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Old 06-10-2016, 12:59 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuclearj View Post
So where does one get the metal sheath cable. I thought these OEMs were the ones to get? So what your saying is there are two different types of OEM cables?
For some reason (cost?) Volvo superseded the old, metal-sheathed style with the new crappy plastic ones. The last time I needed one, I was lucky and found an NOS Gemo one at my local ma and pa parts store, but I believe it was the last one they had, and they have sadly since closed.
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Old 06-10-2016, 01:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse B View Post
For some reason (cost?) Volvo superseded the old, metal-sheathed style with the new crappy plastic ones. The last time I needed one, I was lucky and found an NOS Gemo one at my local ma and pa parts store, but I believe it was the last one they had, and they have sadly since closed.
We wonder why ...

The old Gemo ones were pretty OK, but haven't been around for a while.
All I see on the crock-auto web site is plastic adjuster garbage. They buy out old warehouses, people have been scraping up the last of the metal jacket style anywhere they can for the last 4+ years.
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Old 06-10-2016, 01:49 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kjets On a Plane View Post

Some odd-ball intercooled '84 240T have a stiffer pressure plate unusual clutch but flat flywheel still.

I'm hoarding .... that clutch in nice shape.
Actually all B21 and B21 flat flywheel 215mm pressure plates were stiffer.
They were PN (hang on I have on in the back of my wag-goon---I made a few steel flywheels for old Opel Manta/Ascona 2.0 rally cars and that's the PP I used way back in 1987 when I just did a bolt circle in the OEM cast iron Opel flywheel).....clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop Hmmmmm uh (mumble--grumble) clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop

Ok I'm back..Yeah they all were SUPPOSED to have Sachs 3082 113 032...

(I din't figure this one out on my own....I was spossed to be a Saab V4 shop but I had 4-5 Opel guys out in rallys cause we could get them for $150, they made TONS of real parts for them in Sweden and I was already importing a LOT of stuff so it was easy to throw in quick racks and LSDs and gear sets and cams in the same shipments...but a friend needed MORE CLAMP for a motor I built so we wuz gonna order a PP so I get the catalog and the part number is 3082 113 blah blah and I said " 'ang on, guv, dat looks like a normal Sachs long numbah" and got out my Sachs master catalog and I's looking in the Numerical list and it says Volvo --so i go to the front and under 240 there's an asterisk * and it says TURBO 3082 113 032...

Make sense...Turbo makes moar torquez...A n.a. rally motor makes moar torquez too...

So it became "the default pressure plate" for higher powered n.a. rally motors I'd build..

In the passage of time it became obsolete and replaced with normal REAL 900 turbo 16v say mid 80s--same PCD and everything and still available for maybe $78-85..

So for strict 215mm n.a or low power turbo just order '86 Saab 900T 16' pp...

And remember there is the later like 98-99 so called 900 (Vectra Opel--how ironic, eh) so called "215/228" that is the same old Saab/Volvo 215mm bolt circle:

It'll plop right on to a ordinary flat flywheel and just use a 228 disc..Bingo..
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