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Old 10-17-2016, 02:53 PM   #1
cmanns
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Default New to 940's but had a 740- just bought has a few issues

I'll try to keep this simple about my "new" 1994 940 turbo wagon.

*Service light on, goes away after driving
*After hard driving 200+ miles theres oil on the top of water pump where meets head (actually has seeped near lower rad hose port) I'm hoping just PCV
*Coolant leak at reservoir buy OEM volvo replacement for lower hose? I'll prob grab a nice looking junkyard reservoir/cap when find one does 940 only take 940 res?
*Blipping throttle causes a stumble of a near non registering idle (Surprised its never died) am guessing idle air control or TPS
*Front passenger outer edge of tire balding, matches all the rest and they all look good. Lots of suspension work done and drives near perfectly straight- caster/camber gone out?

Also what are parts I should keep on hand for LH2.4, AMM? MAF? Thanks my 740 had a trunk load of good parts to toss in if needed, hoses, coolant, etc hah.

I'll probably be taking it to shop to have the oil / service light diagnosed (Have to smog soon!)
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Old 10-17-2016, 03:03 PM   #2
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Mej, just rewire CEL to oil pressure light or something. If you're too lazy to open the hood and actually read codes it throws. You know how, don't you?

940 will take any 700 and 900, probably 200 and 800 series expansion tank cap as well, but make sure it's rated for correct pressure.

Clean pcv, iac, throttle body and hoses and check tps alignment.

New coolant temp sensor (not sender) and known good MAF (no AMM on LH2.x) and power stage are cool to have on hand, but not necessary.
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Old 10-17-2016, 03:04 PM   #3
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You should inspect the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) wire that snakes down behind the rear-mounted distributor and onto the sensor itself located on top of the bellhousing. The wiring cracks and lets moisture causing stalling/reliability issues. That's a major component of LH 2.4. In addition to inspecting the CPS and carrying a spare AMM, you should carry a spare ignition amplifier and fuel pump relay. Inspect the fuel pressure regulator for signs of diaphragm leakage as well.

Service light is normal. Check the brickboard FAQ for how to reset it.

Make sure you get a reservoir from a turbo 940. They are different from the N/A (though I can't remember, a 740T one might work).
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Old 10-17-2016, 03:21 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nordmaschine View Post
Mej, just rewire CEL to oil pressure light or something. If you're too lazy to open the hood and actually read codes it throws. You know how, don't you?

940 will take any 700 and 900, probably 200 and 800 series expansion tank cap as well, but make sure it's rated for correct pressure.

Clean pcv, iac, throttle body and hoses and check tps alignment.

New coolant temp sensor (not sender) and known good MAF (no AMM on LH2.x) and power stage are cool to have on hand, but not necessary.
I'm guessing reading the codes is similar to the 740s? Ive not done that but probably can once read it up.

No idea how to clean PCV. Will clean the tb/iac and look up how to check tps.

Rewire the CEL to avoid smog problems? Why not just remove bulb?

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You should inspect the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) wire that snakes down behind the rear-mounted distributor and onto the sensor itself located on top of the bellhousing. The wiring cracks and lets moisture causing stalling/reliability issues. That's a major component of LH 2.4. In addition to inspecting the CPS and carrying a spare AMM, you should carry a spare ignition amplifier and fuel pump relay. Inspect the fuel pressure regulator for signs of diaphragm leakage as well.

Service light is normal. Check the brickboard FAQ for how to reset it.

Make sure you get a reservoir from a turbo 940. They are different from the N/A (though I can't remember, a 740T one might work).
I'll definitely check the CPS it was storming when I bought the car. Everything is dry today so I'll see what symptoms come up.

Yeah the res looks way different then my 740. It's definitely holding pressure but there is a "leak".

Ahh stage 0 time

Edit: Okay looks like need test lamp is all for pulling codes cool
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Old 10-17-2016, 03:46 PM   #5
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Service light is reset by carefully pulling out the rubber plug on cluster face and pushing a button.
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Old 10-17-2016, 04:04 PM   #6
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res sometimes cracks where the bottom hose connects.

CEL, taking out the bulb will not pass smog as it has to go on, then turn off.

codes are read without a test lamp, see instructions on BB.

res caps, almost all 7/8/9 cars use 150 kpa caps. Color is NOT indicative of pressure; lore is black caps are lower but this is not always the case, many are 150kpa.

Outer edge tire wear, this is 'normal' on 7/9 cars and there was a tsb to redrill the mount holes, and has come to be known as the 'camber mod'. I have done this to all my cars and recommend it.
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Old 10-17-2016, 05:45 PM   #7
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Okay thanks.

I dont quite get the BB faq on code pulling.

Anyways the idle I think is related to power stage

The tach drops to zero even when idling decent which I read is a sign of that. After driving 5 minutes its not been dropping the tach. Safe to drive?

Can I ise a 740 powerstage? No 940s in local yards :(
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Old 10-17-2016, 05:52 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Service light is reset by carefully pulling out the rubber plug on cluster face and pushing a button.
Hm I was wondering what that plug was for. Opposite of trip reset?
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Old 10-17-2016, 06:42 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Hm I was wondering what that plug was for. Opposite of trip reset?
Yeah just be careful not to loose it in the cluster!
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Old 10-17-2016, 08:19 PM   #10
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Ahh okay thanks

Okay so I dont think Ive ever seen the CEL on.

Would bad powerstage pop a cell on?

Last edited by cmanns; 10-17-2016 at 08:39 PM..
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Old 10-18-2016, 01:51 AM   #11
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Probably wouldn't. Not safe to drive like that, it will just get worse and die all of a sudden, plus it usually worsens as it heats up while driving.


You could use a 740 one, they're generic Bosch parts, it fits from many other cars as well.


Pulling codes is easy, ignition on, open box behind drivers strut tower, put probe in socket 2, push the button, read blinks...rinse and repeat when you get to the 1st code again. Then go to socket 6 and do the same thing.
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Old 10-18-2016, 02:25 AM   #12
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Here is a link to a PDF re:OBD engine codes. It explains (almost) everything. Just don't mix up the REX/Regina with the Bosch, same code does not necessarily mean same problem. It also explains diagnostic tests #2, sensor tests.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9-...ew?usp=sharing
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Old 10-18-2016, 08:59 PM   #13
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Ok I replaced the power stage And radio suppression relay.

Engine is idling fine only if blip throttle weird it dips.

Tach goes to 0 unless driving (auto) time to time it will show an idle and its pretty steqdy not erratic.

Car seems to be running pretty good otherwise. I checked out the diagnostic area with led. Need to read more though
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Old 10-18-2016, 10:54 PM   #14
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Crank sensor likely. Wiggle test wires and see if it stalls
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Old 10-18-2016, 11:16 PM   #15
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If you are not willing/able to test the Crank Sensor, here is one for under $10.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/171211417227...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Old 10-19-2016, 09:47 AM   #16
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Also double check coil connections.
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Old 10-19-2016, 12:16 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Also double check coil connections.
Will do.

My only question of the tach drop is the engine runs the same when its at 0 (Did 300+ miles since buying a few days ago and the cars running *better*) so maybe its the gauge cluster?

Once I give gas or if am cruising and the automatic is keeping the rpms up, it never drops then... only at idle of sorts.

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Crank sensor likely. Wiggle test wires and see if it stalls
that and pulling codes is next.


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If you are not willing/able to test the Crank Sensor, here is one for under $10.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/171211417227...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
may just pick that up though a local store has a non bosch sensor avail. Thinking picking it up, return if tach still drops
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Old 10-19-2016, 12:23 PM   #18
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The "Service" light shouldn't be an issue for smog. It's just a reminder that a service interval is due. My '96 850 does the same thing. On some cars it can be a DIY reset. Some require a special dealer-only tool.
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Old 10-19-2016, 01:37 PM   #19
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Total edit.

Service lamp is now off only lights is for "burnt bulbs" of sorts (Which wasnt on when I bought it a few days ago) and some of the bulbs that dont work they look good.

I pulled codes 1-2-1 (AMM) and 2-4-1 (rpm signal)

Got a _brand_ new crank position sensor, no dice tach fell as soon as went to idle after starting. Going to pull the neg terminal since I can't clear any codes via the diag box procedure the volvo shop also said to clear codes after the CPS.

So I've put a junkyard Power stage, Radio suppression relay, and a brand new CPS.

The volvo specialized shop said if those things above didn't fix tach falling that it's probably the cluster that not much else will do this.

Tomorrow or so I'll see after pulling neg and if same codes came back. This car I just bought but needs to be "daily driven" so I am glad to have a bunch of spares, now to just get another AMM and keep my "ok" working one as a spare :D

Last edited by cmanns; 10-19-2016 at 09:19 PM..
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Old 10-19-2016, 11:30 PM   #20
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Codes are misleading most of the time on these primitive OBD systems.


I cant tell whats going on. Does your car die, or just the tach?
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Old 10-19-2016, 11:54 PM   #21
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Just the tach, the shop I brought it to (Well my 740, came there to buy part) said I'm on track and pretty much next is gauge cluster (I mentioned I tapped on it like my 740, no change)

Just at random the tach works fine, when I bought it- it always worked fine till 100-150 miles in. Doesnt seem to go spastic at all


I don't want to just throw parts, but if I have most of what electrical would leave me stranded thats fine. My 740 I had spare MAF, power stage, hoses, few other things.

Edit:

Did alil hooning the car now wont accelerate past 4k rpm (Like the hitting the wall during boost I faced first day of ownership that went away after turn off/on) however it accelerates fine in boost until 3-4K then wont accelerate further at all. AMM hitting the buckeT?

Last edited by cmanns; 10-22-2016 at 12:29 AM..
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Old 10-28-2016, 04:14 PM   #22
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Bump.

Cars still loosing power randomly. I replug in AMM seems to help or turning off and on. Not temp related is like hitting brick wall during boost as if boost cut but needle is same area (half way)

Bout to replace coil, and maybe AMM and fuel pump.
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Old 10-30-2016, 03:58 AM   #23
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Replacing the coil will almost certainly do exactly nothing. If the AMM code was there, that could be accurate. Fuel pump, what year car is this? All up to 94 had two pumps, 95 has one. Check fuel pressure, clogged filter will show low power symptoms and sometimes no start.
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Old 10-30-2016, 12:08 PM   #24
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Could be dying fuel pump. Or a bad connection or wire. Wiggle test everything.
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