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Old 09-08-2008, 02:19 PM   #26
Lord_Athlon
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Its bolted to the drivers underdash bolster. You have to remove it to unscrew it from the panel, or remove all the torx and pull it out the back.
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Old 03-11-2009, 06:28 PM   #27
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Last month i got a complete APC setup. Thanks Chad, Ruben!

Time to bump this thread with some extra info.
I did some research (ctrl-c ctrl-v, cough) and there are a few (useful) functions that could be nice to add to a install.

This is the unofficial connection diagram of the 25-pin APC.

Pin 1: not conncted
Pin 2: not conncted
Pin 3: not conncted
Pin 4: knock sensor shielding
Pin 5: GND
Pin 6: not conncted
Pin 7: not conncted
Pin 8: not conncted
Pin 9: not conncted
Pin 10: Pressuresensor in
Pin 11: some kind of test output for the F-circuit
Pin 12: solenoid out
Pin 13: +12v
Pin 14: not conncted
Pin 15: not conncted
Pin 16:knock sensor in 1
Pin 17:knock sensor in 2
Pin 18: internal knock signal. Grounding this signal will disable knock circuit. Applying voltage will trigger knock circuit (lowering boost)
Pin 19: Knock indicator out ("lowers" to GND when knock occurs). You should use a LED for this. No need to add a resistor in line.
Pin 20: brake signal in (+12v). Disables APC but Knock light etc stay active afaik. Ground this pin and boost is regulated by wastegate setting (spring) only. Nice when you need to lend your car to someone else. Fun-killer-switch.
Pin 21: not conncted
Pin 22: same as pin 20
Pin 23: Pressuresensor in 2 (GND)
Pin 24: F-circuit indicator out "lowers" to GND when F-circuit is enabled. is connected the same way as pin 19. It will blink once when F is reached and flash continuously when F is regulating top boost.
Pin 25: RPM in

This "unofficial" wiring diagram includes the test inputs and outputs used to test and calibrate the APC when manufactured. You should not connect anything to the test-pins if you are not sure what you are doing! Info by Anders Olsson.

On 900aero.com you can find a few excellent articles on APC function/troubleshooting, tuning, modifying and simulation. (links are directly to article, may cause issues, otherwise Home>tech info)
There is really a lot of stuff built into the APC, for example it hears engine noise (not knock) with the knock sensor, when that noise isn't present, no extra boost.

Info by Anders Olsson.

The connectors inside the APC plug are the same as found in Volvo LH/EZK plugs and on DIN radio connections.

Have fun with the APC. Mine should be going in this summer.
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Old 03-26-2009, 01:25 PM   #28
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Just to be sure, the only wires that need to be shielded are the ones for the knock sensor, right?
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Old 04-02-2009, 09:30 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by dalek View Post
Just to be sure, the only wires that need to be shielded are the ones for the knock sensor, right?
yes
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Old 05-16-2009, 07:45 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JW240 View Post
Last month i got a complete APC setup. Thanks Chad, Ruben!

Time to bump this thread with some extra info.
I also just scooped a complete APC setup and should have in a week of so. Time to read the articles.
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Old 07-13-2009, 12:45 PM   #31
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bump , seems like i need this, sold my boostcontroller out of confidence this is way cooler .. now to find one
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Old 07-13-2009, 02:03 PM   #32
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all the years of the 9000 with turbo have the unit?
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Old 07-13-2009, 04:35 PM   #33
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When i pulled mine, I got the entire shielded wire to the knocksensor with the harness. I still have to install mine.
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Old 07-13-2009, 09:43 PM   #34
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all the years of the 9000 with turbo have the unit?

No. '93-'98 def. would not have it, and I believe '90-'92 with direct ignition did not have it. '86-'89 should definitely have it, as well as full pressure turbo (boost gauge in the cluster) 16v c900s. (my '91 fpt 900 has an apc box)

This is what I know for US cars, though...there may be differences in other countries...
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Old 07-24-2009, 06:47 PM   #35
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I'm starting to think about wiring mine up. It seems to me that most all the wires needed for the APC can be found on the ICU. (12V, GND, knock sensor and possibly RPM) The rpm signal is pre power stage so that's why I said possibly. Any thoughts on mounting it close to the ICU and running short wires over to pick up most of the wiring. obviously I don't want to add any potential problems for the ICU and would add an inline fuse to the 12V.
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Old 07-27-2009, 09:23 AM   #36
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Someone was going to get me a complete APC setup but that did not take place. That said, I was able to slowly pick up (hopefully) all the parts. I am going to run my own wires.

yama, I myself thought on using op-amps when I such the signal off the knock sensor. May do the same for rpm as needed; I can always then make it spit out whatever voltage range I want.

Your idea to suck the signals out for the (or before) ICU is not bad at all. Now I am thinking... something scary to all involved or nearby.
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:41 PM   #37
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with the APC system do you adjust the boost or does it just keep cranking it up till it gets knock?
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Old 01-25-2010, 07:28 AM   #38
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with the APC system do you adjust the boost or does it just keep cranking it up till it gets knock?
i am wondering this too, think its limited though per ECU how much PSi it will give.. anyone knows this for a fact?
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Old 01-25-2010, 07:53 AM   #39
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I modified my APC, it should be able to adjust boost from 0.5-1.5 bar without the boost lowering at higher rpm. You set a boost and when it hears knock (above 2300 rpm) it will lower boost till the knock is gone.
You basically set it at a certain boost level (together with the wastegate pretension, it needs to open at roughly 50% of the boost that is set in the APC, eg, wastegate at 7-8 PSI, adjusted boost in APC ~15-20 PSI).

Still need to install my APC, so this bit is just theory (the way I understand the APC), not tested yet.
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Old 01-25-2010, 08:48 AM   #40
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I've installed my APC this weekend. You can set the max boost level on the APC circuit with the F potentiometer.
(Some boards, such as mine, do not label the potentiometers. They are the blue square looking pieces from left to right, P, F, K. P and F being close, K being farther away.)

The APC will keep increasing the boost until knock occurs and then decrease in 1.5PSI increments until the knock is gone. It seems to me that the preset level is ~13PSI, I have read some folks say that 13PSI is simply all the 13C is capable of. However, when adjusting my MBC, I seen numbers quite a bit higher than 13PSI.
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Old 01-25-2010, 02:07 PM   #41
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Okay so you can open the box up and switch a rocker on the board to K?
1,5 bar seems like enough for me. if that really is how it works i agree with clarkson here

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Old 01-25-2010, 05:54 PM   #42
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Open the box (4 screws), on the box you will see 3 potentiometers (little dials, just like a MBC). The one closest to the edge of the board is P (pressure), turn this clockwise with a small flathead screwdriver to increase boost. Otherwise leave it as is and as far as I can tell it maxes at 13PSI.

You do not need to touch either of the other potentiometers. One adjusts the boost rise rate (F), which I have not had a problem with. The other adjusts the sensitivity of the knock sensor (K, farther away from the other 2). Absolutely do not touch that one for any reason.

I've had it installed only a couple of days now, but I don't see any real need to do any other modifications as some sites suggest.. Like replacing resistors and potentiometers, unless you're going for very high boost levels.

Also, a little installation pointer. My kit did not come with a knock sensor and I didn't want to wait to get another one. I spliced the APC harness into the Volvo harness and it worked perfectly as the Saab and Volvo use the same sensor:

1. Cut the APC knock sensor wire. You will see 2 wires shielded by ground. 1 Green, 1 brown. Wrap the ground up and strip the ends of the green and brown.
2. Cut the Volvo knock sensor wire, you will see 1 thick green wire, cut this and you will see copper wire wrapped around a smaller green wire.
3. Connect the smaller green Volvo wire to the green APC wire. Connect the wire wrapped around the smaller green wire to the brown APC wire.

Tape it all up and you're done.

On the 3-way valve, you will see a W valve, C valve and R valve. My installation:
W valve: to the waste gate. (easy to remember, W=wastegate)
C valve: to the manifold. (easy to remember, C=compressed)
R valve: to the spare nipple on the hose going directly after the AMM to the PCV. (easy to remember, R=regular (uncompressed))
Block off the open port you now have on the compressor housing.
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Old 01-26-2010, 07:03 PM   #43
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Another thing, I wish there was a way to turn this thing off when I want to. MPG=garbage. Spent 1/4 tank driving 30 miles.

Mine's hooked up to an on/off switch, but when it's off, just unlimited boost.
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Old 01-27-2010, 01:56 AM   #44
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If you ground pin 20 the APC doesnt add boost in the higher rpm, you'll get the base boost (wastegate spring). The knock light still works then, which is a nice thing.

If the boost rises unlimited with the APC off you have connected something wrong. The APC valve should be connected like this:
C: compressor (not intake manifold)
W: wastegate
R: Return

Sounds like you have the C connected to the wrong spot.
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Old 01-27-2010, 02:01 AM   #45
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Dam cannot wait till i install mine, that switch for ground sounds pretty good too.
How safe is JAW BTW, you need to run a Wideband with it to check or is it safe enough to just go with it
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Old 01-27-2010, 08:37 AM   #46
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Thanks JW240, I was worried about that. However, with C connected to the compressor, I only get stock boost.

I bought it already wired up for the car, I'll take another look this weekend to see that I connected everything correctly.
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Old 04-03-2010, 03:50 AM   #47
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Just wondering why all the diagrams are on pins, its not like you can tell what color it goes toe (all warped up in heat protecting)
Mine got these colors and i have no idea how to hook it up since i got it of ebay and not took it off a car myself




Thats:
- blue
- black
- gray/red
- black
- white/yellow
- yellow/red
- white


Edit did i just found the right info via the link of JW?:

The wires coming out of the block are (1) thick grey tube to the knock sensor containing a green and a brown wire, (2) the three main "power/ground" wires - one black (ground), one blue/red (to join blue wire under TSI connector) and one grey/red (to APC 10A fuse), and (3) a set of wires to other peripherals - black & yellow/red (to pressure transducer), yellow/white (to APC solenoid, joined by a black ground wire) and white (to the brake switch)
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Old 04-08-2010, 09:08 PM   #48
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It seems like nobody knows which potentiometer to adjust to raise boost- some places say F, and others say P.... Anyone have any more definitive info?
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Old 04-21-2010, 12:35 PM   #49
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Okay now you can match the colors to the pin-out


Pin
4 Black - Connected to Nok
5 Black - Connected to Nok
10 Yellow/Red
12 White/Yellow
13 Red/Gray
16 Green - Connected to Nok
17 Brown - Connected to Nok
20 White
23 Black
26 Blue/Red




So assuming this list is also correct you can hook it all up using these to pinout's

Here's the pinout for the new gen box
Pin 1: not conncted
Pin 2: not conncted
Pin 3: not conncted
Pin 4: knock sensor shielding (connected to pin 5, GND)
Pin 5: GND
Pin 6: not conncted
Pin 7: not conncted
Pin 8: not conncted
Pin 9: not conncted
Pin 10: Pressuresensor in
Pin 11: ??
Pin 12: solenoid out
Pin 13: +12v
Pin 14: not conncted
Pin 15: not conncted
Pin 16:knock sensor in 1
Pin 17:knock sensor in 2
Pin 18: Disable Knock
Pin 19: Knock indicator out ("lowers" to GND when knock occurs)
Pin 20: brake signal in (+12v)
Pin 21: not conncted
Pin 22: same as pin 20
Pin 23: Pressuresensor in 2 (GND)
Pin 24: F-circuit indicator out ("lowers" to GND when lowers" to GND when F-circuit is enabled)
Pin 25: RPM in
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Old 04-21-2010, 07:25 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JW240 View Post
If you ground pin 20 the APC doesnt add boost in the higher rpm, you'll get the base boost (wastegate spring). The knock light still works then, which is a nice thing.
This is incorrect- you need to provide +12v to pin 20 to get the APC to return to "base boost." If grounded, it doesn't damage anything- but the APC will still provide high boost.
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