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Old 01-27-2011, 06:12 PM   #76
casioqv
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Originally Posted by Mylesofsmyles View Post
So its totally cool to double up on the sensors?
It worked great for me... just make sure you're using the same type of sensor (there's 2 different ones with different torque specs) and get the torque right.
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Old 01-28-2011, 12:39 AM   #77
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It worked great for me... just make sure you're using the same type of sensor (there's 2 different ones with different torque specs) and get the torque right.
kk

the knock sensor that came with my apc system reads, 0 261 231 006

is that right?
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Old 01-28-2011, 12:58 AM   #78
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kk

the knock sensor that came with my apc system reads, 0 261 231 006

is that right?
Any knock sensor will work- there's just two different types- one much thicker than the other and they have different torque specs. So you need to have two of the same type if torquing them on with the same bolt.
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Old 01-28-2011, 01:34 AM   #79
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Any knock sensor will work- there's just two different types- one much thicker than the other and they have different torque specs. So you need to have two of the same type if torquing them on with the same bolt.


oh, now i got ya...assumed you meant something to do with the sensor itself and the torque output of the motor.

wow, what an assumption i've made, haha
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Old 01-28-2011, 02:29 AM   #80
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Not if the wiring is still shielded properly (although if it weren't it would *probably* still work). If I were to go that route, I'd buy a knocksense harness from Borris- otherwise you'd have to either find the correct connectors or permanently cut into your stock EZK harness:

http://www.viatrack.ca/

I just used an old Volvo exhaust stud, nut, and washer in place of the stock bolt to piggy back a second sensor.
this is quite intriguing...

so the knock sensor sends it's pig tail to the original, then to the computer and to a light...so i wouldn't need the knocksense component, correct?


yeah, i would just run the leads to the APC and the light. who's borris?
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Old 01-28-2011, 03:51 PM   #81
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Anyone wanna buy a redbox apc kit?
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simple...just throw the redblock in the trash and install, well, almost anything modern

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Yet Asher here went with...
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Old 01-28-2011, 04:36 PM   #82
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so the knock sensor sends it's pig tail to the original, then to the computer and to a light...so i wouldn't need the knocksense component, correct?

yeah, i would just run the leads to the APC and the light.
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who's borris?
He designed and sells/makes the knocksense unit which is for driving a knock-light off the stock knock sensor. It's redundant if you have an APC installed, since the APC has this feature built in.
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Old 01-28-2011, 06:35 PM   #83
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Anyone wanna buy a redbox apc kit?
i want the box!




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He designed and sells/makes the knocksense unit which is for driving a knock-light off the stock knock sensor. It's redundant if you have an APC installed, since the APC has this feature built in.
so he's on the board? can't find his avatar.
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Old 01-28-2011, 06:48 PM   #84
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It's in forsale
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Old 01-28-2011, 09:51 PM   #85
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Ohhhh,

Was gonna email him through that site you linked, but he's on the board, sweet!


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It's in forsale
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Old 01-29-2011, 10:45 AM   #86
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?
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Old 01-29-2011, 03:32 PM   #87
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Not if the wiring is still shielded properly (although if it weren't it would *probably* still work). If I were to go that route, I'd buy a knocksense harness from Borris- otherwise you'd have to either find the correct connectors or permanently cut into your stock EZK harness:

http://www.viatrack.ca/

I just used an old Volvo exhaust stud, nut, and washer in place of the stock bolt to piggy back a second sensor.
this one, no?
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Old 01-29-2011, 08:45 PM   #88
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I think Lord_Athlon's talking about his red box APC- it's the same as the black box, but adjusted for more boost.

The knocksense guy is "Boris740" on here.
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Old 01-29-2011, 09:06 PM   #89
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I think Lord_Athlon's talking about his red box APC- it's the same as the black box, but adjusted for more boost.

The knocksense guy is "Boris740" on here.
yep, and yep...

oh, yeah, i just don't really wanna mod one myself...i'd rather just have a proper red box, so yeah, i'm interested.
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Old 01-29-2011, 10:48 PM   #90
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i just don't really wanna mod one myself...i'd rather just have a proper red box, so yeah, i'm interested.
I can understand that. I got a $450 speeding ticket while adjusting mine I could have had that NOS volvo pneumatic suspension in for sale
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Old 01-29-2011, 10:56 PM   #91
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I can understand that. I got a $450 speeding ticket while adjusting mine I could have had that NOS volvo pneumatic suspension in for sale
ouch, yeah, the CHP is no joke these days.

glad I spent a year with a stock B21F to chill me out...even with 160+hp now I'm still riding in the slow lanes, chilling out...saving my heavy right foot for future track days and closed course events.

getting things started with Boris' harness...on the way...got everything else in front of me, and should take me the better part of an afternoon to get it all wired up.

On the subject of red boxes, anybody see this?


http://www.saabperformanceparts.com/cat8_1.htm

They have a Stage 4 Red Box, with a claimed 20-24psi max!
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Old 01-30-2011, 05:04 PM   #92
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With an APC, you do not need knock sense. Just get a 12V LED from Radio Shack and connect it to the APC... Same thing. Running both would be redundant.

Also, to clarify, no; the instructions in post one are incorrect if I remember correctly. They are corrected later on in page 1 I believe.

As for a red box, they're not worth it. I paid $30 for my entire APC setup, it hits 20PSI at low RPM and gets there quick before it starts bumping it down. This is also something you can do with parts from Radio Shack, modifying your normal APC unit to the same spec as a red box. Normal APC has a 21-22PSI (1.5bar) max.
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Old 01-30-2011, 07:09 PM   #93
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With an APC, you do not need knock sense. Just get a 12V LED from Radio Shack and connect it to the APC... Same thing. Running both would be redundant.

Also, to clarify, no; the instructions in post one are incorrect if I remember correctly. They are corrected later on in page 1 I believe.

As for a red box, they're not worth it. I paid $30 for my entire APC setup, it hits 20PSI at low RPM and gets there quick before it starts bumping it down. This is also something you can do with parts from Radio Shack, modifying your normal APC unit to the same spec as a red box. Normal APC has a 21-22PSI (1.5bar) max.

it's the modifying of the box that I'm not comfortable with...I've read on 900aero...just seems out of my league. I'd spend money and get the real deal, just me though.
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Old 01-30-2011, 07:58 PM   #94
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RPM signal to (+) or (-) of coil?

Got everything mounted and in place, pressure transducer, APC unit and 3-way valve...just need Boris' harness and I'm going to be boostin!
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Old 01-30-2011, 09:53 PM   #95
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+ side.

My APC is not modified aside from adjusting the F & P pots. I'm extremely happy with it as is.
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Old 01-30-2011, 09:54 PM   #96
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+ side.

My APC is not modified aside from adjusting the F & P pots. I'm extremely happy with it as is.
don't know much else that can be done with them, but I figured I'd leave things alone and get a factory set box...dunno the gray area in adjusting these.
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Old 01-30-2011, 10:03 PM   #97
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It's actually very simple. And being an APC, you don't have to worry about over boosting. So long as you just adjust the boost pot, you're golden. Never touch the knock sensitivity pot, for any reason, ever.

It's just like a little dial, it only turns so far to the left and so far to the right. So don't worry about turning it too many times or anything. Just adjust it like a MBC. Leave the box open, drive it, adjust it, drive it, adjust it, etc until you get it where you want. Then close the box and mount.

Lots of other stuff can be done with them. You can solder in resistors, different pots and other electronic stuff that I don't understand (I'm with you.. That's why I didn't mess with mine) to be the same as a red box.
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Old 01-30-2011, 10:35 PM   #98
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It's actually very simple. And being an APC, you don't have to worry about over boosting. So long as you just adjust the boost pot, you're golden. Never touch the knock sensitivity pot, for any reason, ever.

It's just like a little dial, it only turns so far to the left and so far to the right. So don't worry about turning it too many times or anything. Just adjust it like a MBC. Leave the box open, drive it, adjust it, drive it, adjust it, etc until you get it where you want. Then close the box and mount.

Lots of other stuff can be done with them. You can solder in resistors, different pots and other electronic stuff that I don't understand (I'm with you.. That's why I didn't mess with mine) to be the same as a red box.
mmmm, hmmm.

so far as i understand, one can adjust max boost and rise rate, no?

yep, gonna drive mine as stock for now and see what that does...probably will beat just running stock psi from the wastegate, no?

then maybe i'll play a little with what's there and hope I can come up on a red box.
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Old 02-01-2011, 07:49 AM   #99
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RPM signal to (+) or (-) of coil?

Got everything mounted and in place, pressure transducer, APC unit and 3-way valve...just need Boris' harness and I'm going to be boostin!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.Thunder
+ side.

My APC is not modified aside from adjusting the F & P pots. I'm extremely happy with it as is.
Rpm signal goes to negative side (-) terminal 1 on coil

The positive side (terminal 15) is +12V when ign is on (supply for coil), the negative side is switched by the contacts in the distributer, the ECU or the ignition module.
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Old 02-02-2011, 01:08 AM   #100
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Rpm signal goes to negative side (-) terminal 1 on coil

The positive side (terminal 15) is +12V when ign is on (supply for coil), the negative side is switched by the contacts in the distributer, the ECU or the ignition module.
so could i get my 12v power for the APC from the (+) side of the coil or should I run a lead to the fuse panel?

any input on the ideal place to draw power for the APC unit?

FYI, got all three components in position, just waiting on my Knock Sensor splitter harness from Boris740, so I can just plug this baby in!

So, since I've got my EZK ignition box in the passenger footwell, I used the Chrysler Ignition box location...on the coil mount bracket...to mount the SAAB APC. Mounted it upside down, so the connector would have room to connect at the bottom, and route without kinking the wires.

Was going to position the 3-way valve on the shock tower, like Volvo Turbo+, but couldn't really get a good place to do it where it wasn't at a funky angle. or clearance, better wire routing and servicability, I installed the 3-way valve using the SAAB bracket, flipped upside down, and then reinstalled the nuts and screws that hold the valve to the plate upside down, so one can still access them with a Torx driver from above.

I installed the Pressure Transducer by the brake m/c...hopefully it will clear a hydraulic clutch master cylinder, cuz that's coming eventually!









All I've really got to do is wire it up now.
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