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745 into Pickup

Got the exhaust on today, then worked on the wiring for the eFan and the PTC

Using the Volvo 2 speed fan & relay - wired using the old AC fan relay signals (components 82 & 495, BL-SB wires). I separated the Rad thermoswitch (224) from the AC circuit, using the AC circuit for speed 1, and the thermoswitch for speed 2

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of course the AC circuit connectors all fell apart when I separated them for circuit testing, so I'll have to deal with that

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Repurposed the BL-GN relay feed (switched power from Fuse 9) for power to the PTC (Note: bad idea, PTC shorted & killed the AC circuit)

Putting the relay and fuses on the coolant tank - but.... had to acid dip the bracket to restore it first

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made a new mount bracket that attaches to the existing, to retain 2 relays and the fuse/holders (9494667), final pics later on.

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Ran the engine until warm, and fan cycled a few times. Amazing how quickly the engine warms up now it doesn't have the fan clutch running....
 
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Worked on it all day yesterday - a good 12 hours, didn't pack it in until after 10pm. Unfortunately it's not done - the fuel rail I modified is leaking at the NPT fitting I braised. I have a spare rail and another 1/8" NPT steel bung, so this time I will weld the bung in place. I have had success with braising and/or silver soldering fitting to fuel rail in the past, but this one is not happening.

pics of finished eFan control relay & fuse holders

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Bridge connector from Fuse holder kit to main plug that previously went into relay

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Finished exhaust

DP support

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Cat - into front muffler -

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over axle

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for the rear muffler, I had to make hangers to attach to the floor - the stock ones had rusted away - they were same design as the strap ears on the rear muffler

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Got my custom fuel regulator pod installed, required cutting the nylon line the normally attaches to the rail & feeding that into the FPR pod

The lower line is the return - that also previously attached to the fuel rai, now there is only regulated pressure line to the motor

added quick-connect fittings where possible, make servicing easier DTR

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With that sorted out, I started on removing the manifold for prep & also to do the engine breather box & drain tube

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New box & drain tube installed. I didn't think I was going to finish this part - the old drain tube broke off inside the block & it took me about an hour to extract the broken sections. I was getting prepared to drop the oil pan again to extract the remnants from the guide clamp at the oil pump.

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opened up the harness to add wiring for the WOT CSV trigger relay. R-WH goes to TPS, GY-BK goes to CSV, BK is relay ground (at intake). Relay grounds the CSV using TPS WOT signal to energize the really coil .

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Relay will go here - there is a spot for a relay to mount on this bracket. I will pull switched power for the relay coil (85) from the Ignition coil/ power stage unit

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Since the manifold will now see positive pressure, all the line fittings need to be clamped/secured. Rather then deal with hose & fiddly clamps I removed all the stock 1/8" NPT fittings and added 5/32" and 3/8" quick-connect style, and drilled the intake to add two additional ports

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getting ready to reinstall the intake

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Wired the WOT relay terminals

Pinout: 1- BL (+15) 3 - BK (31) 2 - R-WH (TPS 3) 4 - GY-SB (CSV 2)

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completed with power drawn from harness feed to power stage/coil

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Another thing that came up last evening - I forgot about the fuel feed to the CSV, so I had to adapt the bung fitting I intended for just the gauge to include a feed to the CSV. I had several 4AN fittings and a couple of 4AN steel braided lines. I had to make the 8mm banjo - to- 4AN fitting at the CSV. Drilled & tapped on side of the 1/8" NPT branch T to M10x1.25 for the banjo feed to the CSV

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original layout idea - line routed under on the inner side, less stuff leveraging out off the elbow / NPT fitting

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That didn't pan out as the fuel gauge then sat higher than the oil filler cap - which I subsequently found out meant the hood won't close...

note to self - change mileage on next belt interval to 267K

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where I left off around 10:30 last night

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Anyway, back to today -

Got the revised fuel rail installed with the welded NPT bung, all vacuum / brake booster / HVAC lines routed

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gonna need something to protect this from vibration

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so I added a support mount for the CSV feed line & gauge elbow. I may want to revise this DTR

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wired & installed the WBO2 controller - (+15) feed off the BL-Y power to H/L switch, (31) off the SB from the foglamp switch

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Can ran really lean & uneven - turns out at least one of the reman 0280150762 injectors was defective. Unplugged them one at a time - one made no difference at all. Swapped them out for 0280155746 composites I had previously in the X1/9 1600 motor. I'll need to get the '762's repaired, as they are 20lb @ 3bar, the xxx746's I have to run 3.5bar to get to that flow

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Additional issue that arose is that there is a knock coming from the pan - in extracting the drain tube, I must have bent the support/guide bracket such that one of the counterweights is now hitting it. I will have to drop the oil pan (again) to get to that....
 
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Took care of most of the remaining repairs / mods today

Drilled hole for IAT in the inlet pipe. Have to rewire the harness from the left front to the right front.

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After that I lifted the engine a little to get clearance for lowering the oil pan

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Removed the damaged breather drain tube guide

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reshaped as it makes sense to me

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reinstalled after a couple of revisions - I rotated the crank & put my finger up in there to feel when the #3 big end came by. Can't see up in there, so I had to gauge by feel only.

After that, I worked on getting the AC compressor installed, and then making the line repairs to the compressor. In-between the thunderstorms.

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I move the IAT into the airstream, with it just hanging in the bay it was getting really hot. In order to nicely re-wire the IAT I moved the harness from the left to the right side. This meant opening the harness & pulling the wires back over to the passenger side where they originate. Harness also feeds the MAP, so much of it needs to stay where it is

Brown-Black & Green at the bottom of the loom

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pass over the brake booster

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harness combines with the crank sensor harness - snaked a wire from the right side, & pulled the BN-BK wire back through

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over to the right side, down below pressure switch on accumulator

also rewired the AC pressure switch & jumper connections (grey 2 pole in top center) , using JPT style connectors & terminals

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feed from here - NOT opening this connector as the terminals are good, and will likely self destruct if fk'd with

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new terminals , IAT connector installed.

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With that out of the way, I swapped the 20lb injectors for 0280155759 30lb injectors (used on Volvo V70 LPT)

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Reduced fuel pressure (from 4bar) to just under 3bar - should keep the injectors around 28lb. Engine ran VERY rich at idle initially (10's) - wasn't sure if it was going to work out - so I had Adam hold the throttle around 2K rpm for a few minutes & the AFR's stabilized in the 14.7 - 15.2 range at idle after that. Now the AFR's under part throttle/boost are much better - with the exception of tip-in under load where it is still 14's for a 'bit' and then gets richer as you get on it. I think it will be OK in normal use as we were exaggerating the condition to evaluate the AFR's at different throttle/load areas.

Boost is limited to a little under the stock range (so around 5-6psi), as I don't want to blow the motor & don't need this to be more powerful - with this small Mitsubishi 13C it's more than enough. Significant improvement over stock NA performance/HP

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Car ended up running very rich under load with the 30lb'ers, so I located some 24lb 0280155703's. AFR's are somewhat move even - 12's under part load/boost, still kinda lean when under higher boost/heavier load. I may have to play with fuel pressure as well.

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My son drove the car this past week on his visit from San Jose - things that died during his stay -

Alternator

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ICM

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Blower motor also died - filled with water from clogged AC drain.

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Dang! I just started reading this. Hopefully mods will eventually move the thread to projects as requested. I appreciate all the detail you're posting. Keep it up!
 
Dang! I just started reading this. Hopefully mods will eventually move the thread to projects as requested. I appreciate all the detail you're posting. Keep it up!

Thank you!

Slight detour today - I installed the rear diff on my C30 that I had added the Quaife 11J to about a year & a half ago...

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Not many pics, I already documented the R&R of the rear elsewhere. Basically, remove rear shocks, unbolt brake calipers & suspend from shock mount plate. Disconnect ABS sensors & Haldex harness. Disconnect rear CV at Diff. Remove trailing arm forward bolts (4), remove subframe bolts (6). Slightly lower entire rear, then disconnect EVAP tubes (3) and unbolt leak detection pump from subframe. Drop rear.

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essential tool for removing rear axles from diff

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transfer Haldex module (DEM) from old diff to modded diff

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Fill AOC with .7 liter of Volvo-branded oil. Put diff back into subframe, install left axle into diff, push diff to left side, install right axle into diff. I did NOT want to deal with removing the hubs or separating the control arms to pivot the hub out. Replaced the left axle (used part) while I had it apart - I had repaired the inner boot on the original, and that had started spraying CV grease this past spring.

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Tipped the entire assembly over to the passenger side & filled the diff, also Volvo fluid, .7L

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While I had the rear down, I rewired the extra 2 wires (Y, WH) I had added for the VW DEM into the Volvo harness

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Going back together - had the Mrs push the rear subframe forward under the car whilst I aligned the pinion with the rear CV

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After that, it was all pretty much cut & dry, just several hours labor to put everything back together

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Almost forgot - I did install a new version CEIKA rear brake setup, this one has a mechanical parking brake, vs. the old hydraulic version that wouldn't maintain eBrake function over time. This version is MUCH cleaner design & pretty easy to set up - if only they provided proper directions, it wouldn't be so frustrating dealing with them

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These are the directions given for adjusting the caliper mechanism (step 11):

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Yeah, NOT HELPFUL

I figured out they were referring to this grub screw - you can see an adjuster wheel inside (I had to remove the caliper to do this, as one cannot see inside the hole with the caliper installed)

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so, knowing now that there is an adjuster wheel, I tried rotating it CW, and then CCW to figure out which direction resulted in proper tensioning of the mechanism. I sent them these pics, hopefully they will include them (or their own) in future directions that make sense.

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I didnt know ceika offered that. Pretty cool to have a fixed piston caliper with an integrated mechanical parking brake
 
I didnt know ceika offered that. Pretty cool to have a fixed piston caliper with an integrated mechanical parking brake

Recent item. I've had complaints with the hydraulic version since I bought them 7-8 years ago. These work.

With the +T, the heater/AC vent control is an issue (for me). With the absence of vacuum for more than short durations, the vent control is not maintained.

I've added the vacuum pump from a S40 (P1). This required cutting off the stock nitrile lines & fabricating new ones to route as needed for the 740 layout

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brake vacuum switch

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branch for heater/ vent controls

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Pump works when powered directly - not under boost though. I don't know what the test values are for the vacuum switch at the booster, but I can't make the contacts close by applying vacuum or pressure with my MityVac, so it may a dead soldier. (EDIT - I need a secondary switch as the factory one is only intended to operate when booster vacuum is depleted)

Wiring is very straightforward - 8/84 is the vacuum switch, 6/114 is the vacuum pump. I can add a Honeywell adjustable pressure switch for the time being, however I want to the make the factory circuit work as intended when possible.

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Did you verify that the check valves are working?

Isn't there a vacuum reservoir under the dash?

The stock HVAC check valve is functional, I tested it. According to the parts catalog, 91 740 manual AC had no vacuum reservoir. 940's came with one

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I don't see why I can't add one in the factory spot - the 940 w/ manual AC has the same dash & HVAC unit otherwise
 
I did add the second pressure switch set to 1 psi

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wired in series & function tested operation. Still need to hook up a vacuum gauge & see what sort of draw the pump has - I had to revive this one, so maybe it's sub-par. Overall length of tubing is about the same as factory P1 layout.

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Wrapped up the HVAC setup - added a vacuum reservoir, and got a new vacuum pump to replace the dead one.

Put a check valve back in for the HVAC circuit, T attaches the reservoir into the circuit

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Swapped out the washer nozzles for P1 versions

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Also noted that the head gasket is seeping oil down the block on both sides - visible by the knock sensor on the DS. Head is dry.

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Changed the oil pressure sender, and tightened the oil cooler extension housing main bolt - had a drop of oil on the underside
 
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Thank you, Dan.

Car has been running well overall - used it for several Newark Airport runs as it has the most forgiving suspension & ride height .

I found that I have an oil leak from the front of the engine - oil was running back along the oil pan lip & dropping at the bell housing. Turns out I damaged the new front crank seal when I installed it, AND I cocked the seal in the housing. Good job I didn't pay this mechanic ��

This time I removed the housing as well, as it looked like oil was seeping out around the top right side

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Took better part of an hour to remove the old gasket & clean the block

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New gasket, seal, housing back on

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because I don't own the factory crank counter hold tool, I have to remove the radiator to do this job, so I can get the heavy duty impact on there to tighten the pulley appropriately

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The other thing that happened was the WBO2 sensor died - I had it about 8" off the turbo flange - AEM recommends much greater distance, however factory Volvo WBO2's sits even closer to the turbo hot side, so I was assuming it would be OK. I may infect just have had a defective sensor, however I decided to move it about 20" downstream to be safe

I had to send proof of destruction of the defective sensor to AEM to get a replacemernt

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new location

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Just been driving the wagon for supply pickup & some around town driving. Been thinking about various aspects of the pickup build. Mostly focused on the layout of the cab / tailgate .

In the meantime, I drilled & squared off the holes to mount the t/gate spoiler

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Marked the top edge of the spoiler, 5 holes. On center, 4.25" in from the ends and 15/16 down, then 5.5" inch in and 7/8 down, then 12.5" and 7/8 down to the center one. Remove upper molding. Clip # 9447384, same as 960 rocker trim clips

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1/8" closed cell foam along the bottom lip of the spoiler where it sits against the glass, that adds a little tension the clips, prevents it rattling/rubbing over time.

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I was thinking of using the C pillar to finish the B pillar, instead of keeping the forward edge of the rear door. However, the angle of the C pillar is about 10?, and the B pillar is about 5?, doesn't really matter since it can be reversed L to R & repositioned. The other catch is that the front door seal sits against the B pillar, but the rear door seal sits inside the C pillar edge.

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The other area will be the inner edge of the rear door, which will now be a cavity for crud to accumulate - so I need to deal with a filler panel for that.

found this one online - the rear door-into-quarter tied the door top with the quarter trim - but you can see the dimensions are different - the molding is deeper/taller than the door edge...

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745 -91 w/ regina rex?
Br?ther.

Well done thus far!
Will be interesting to see the body-chopping.

Yeah, as long as the rear main seal stays dry, I won't convert to LH2.4. I have all the parts to convert it, just not the need. It's much more drivable across the board even at under .5 bar boost.

I will document all the body mods. Thanks to Stiggypop for his excellent guide I have a pretty clear direction for it.
 
EDIT: Somewhere around 12/16 I swapped out the Bilstein B4's under warranty (knocking over uneven roadway) from RockAuto

Sketching ideas for the bed top ledge - I want it more like the 70-80's Toyota with the rolled over lip

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Now I have the spot welder, this will be easier to accomplish without distorting the crap out of the existing panel or the added sections.

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existing sheet metal lip along 1/4. C & D pillar bases will need to be carefully cut & capped to remove evidence of their existance

Pics belong to StiggyPop

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