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Transmission Jack Suggestions

OldCarNewTricks

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2016
Location
Oregon
I have to swap out my fried AW70 for a good working unit soon, and I was wondering what you guys use for trans jacks. I've heard that the little adapter cradle pieces are crap, as they are too high off the ground, and are relatively flimsy. So I was thinking maybe the cheap HF scissor jack might be OK?

I'll be doing the job alone, so whatever will be the least frustrating will be the way to go. I also need to remove a 700r4 from my 86 Camaro, and then I'll be putting a 60e in as replacement, so something that can handle the weight of those would be the goal, as well.
 
Consider me subscribed. I have a swap coming up and I’ve been trying to figure out how to pull it off on jack stands with as few helper hands as possible.
 
I also used the HF jack for my t5 swap. It's good but the threads need a lot of grease and mine still gets hard to move up and down. Not sure what is causing it to bind.
 
Manual transmissions are light but autos are very heavy. Definitely grab the HF Jack or something similar. Probably can find one second hand to save some money.
 
Done a couple auto trans with the HF jack. Got another resting on it at the moment. Yes, use grease and a 1/4" impact driver to raise/lower the jack. I buy a couple hardware store long bolts that will screw into the engine block and cut the heads off for guides to slip the trans in. Takes about 6" bolts to clear the TC or clutch. Too long due to clearance in the rear? Cut them shorter.

I raise the car up enough to get a concrete block (14") and a 2x10 under each wheel. That will clear both transmission and stand or did in my case.
 
Excellent information, thank you. I'll likely grab one of the HF ones and put it to work, then! :)

My HF jack stands (not the recalled ones lol) have max lift of about 16". TestPoint, so you are saying that I will need 16" plus the height of the wheels to have enough room underneath for the trans and jack? Makes sense, though. Did you use a couple of cinder blocks under each wheel with the wood bridged over to create a wide enough surface for each wheel?

Also, for the 6" bolts, did you just use 2?
 
Excellent information, thank you. I'll likely grab one of the HF ones and put it to work, then! :)

My HF jack stands (not the recalled ones lol) have max lift of about 16". TestPoint, so you are saying that I will need 16" plus the height of the wheels to have enough room underneath for the trans and jack? Makes sense, though. Did you use a couple of cinder blocks under each wheel with the wood bridged over to create a wide enough surface for each wheel?

Also, for the 6" bolts, did you just use 2?

DON'T use cinder blocks - they are not designed for spot loads which something like this can put on them. They can crumble, drop the car and kill you. Most commonly people use wood cribbing like this.
 
DON'T use cinder blocks - they are not designed for spot loads which something like this can put on them. They can crumble, drop the car and kill you. Most commonly people use wood cribbing like this.

That makes sense. Good point. What I could do is stack 2x6 or 2x8 cuts that are screwed together and use those under my jack stands. Two layers will yield an additional 4" which might be enough. I'll have to measure the bell housing of my AW70 and add that to the height of the HF jack.

Edit: I meant measure the height from oil pan to top of the bell housing
 
Don't like hollow blocks, use solid blocks. This height worked for me to get a transmission out. Want higher, add a 2x10 or another solid block.

(edited)_(edited)_Volvo_Concrete_Block_Jackstands.jpg
 
That makes sense. Good point. What I could do is stack 2x6 or 2x8 cuts that are screwed together and use those under my jack stands. Two layers will yield an additional 4" which might be enough. I'll have to measure the bell housing of my AW70 and add that to the height of the HF jack.

Edit: I meant measure the height from oil pan to top of the bell housing

That should work but make sure the surface under the jack stand is solid. Most jack stands have narrow feet which can sink into soft wood and tip. If you have a chunk of heavy steel scrap big enough to cover the bottom of the jackstands, that would be perfect.
 
I do some sub/contract work for a local shop, had to pull TH400 out of a GM car. The HF trans jack that they worked fine, the only issue was that the thrust bearing failed, got the trans out, fixed the thrust bearing issue at my shop with a better bearing. The good side is that I can use it any time I want now.
 
My coworker suggested using tin can lids in between the wood and jack stand feet. Good idea there.

I'll have to get a trans jack from HF this weekend. It's a shame they started doing their "inside track club" for the good coupons.

I'll likely disassemble whatever I buy and use some good quality grease on the threaded shaft and the thrust bearing. Sounds like that will extend the life of the jack.

I do have a garage floor to work on, thankfully. I cannot imagine having to do it anywhere else, as that would just be hell.:omg:
 
Spend the extra money and get this one. I bought one a few years back to do a trans swap on a 960. Those transmissions are about the same size and weight as a 700R4. I have used it several times since. It has a tilt feature built into the top plate which makes one man transmissions installs a breeze.

https://www.harborfreight.com/800-l...jack-60234.html?_br_psugg_q=transmission+jack

I really like this model, however, it's about twice the price so I'll have to give it some thought. I think (emphasis on think) I'll only have to use it twice, so that's the major thing there. It would also work for differentials, so that's incredibly tempting...
 
Advertise and sell on CraigsList. Bought AC equip, polishing equipment, engine crane new and later sold on CL for 75+% back.
 
I bought a fully mechanical (just a big screw, no hydraulics) trans jack that is probably from the 1940’s for $20 off clist. The thing weighs 100 pounds and can lower a transmission to 4” off the ground. We have a HF one too, and I prefer the old one.
 
I bought a fully mechanical (just a big screw, no hydraulics) trans jack that is probably from the 1940?s for $20 off clist. The thing weighs 100 pounds and can lower a transmission to 4? off the ground. We have a HF one too, and I prefer the old one.

I had a look at what you were talking about. Super cool! The father of hydraulic jacks as we know them now. What sets the old one apart from the new? Just lower and better increment movements?
 
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