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92 244GL N/A Build

eregan

Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2018
Location
Massachusetts
Have been working on this car for a year or so now, has come together nicely.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9ajtR14wSU

Suspension mods:
IPD sways & panhard, poly bushes almost everywhere, cut IPD springs, Koni yellows up front, KYB in rear, Kalplhenke QSRC, Kaplhenke strut brace w/ master cyl reinforcer.
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Power mods:
Ported 83' BCP head, 5-angle valve cut, shaved .045, Cometic .027 HG, RSI Stage 1 N/A cam, STS adj cam gear, pink injectors, Cherry Bomb side pipe exhaust, chip tune.
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Other sh*t:
Gutted heater core/blower motor, removed a lot of insulation, AC delete, Subaru seat, China short throw shifter w/ brass bushes, 52mm Volvo tach, 52mm VDO voltage gauge, AEM wide-band.
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Special thanks to: Sudbury Volvo Service, photoman327, redblockpowered, shoestring, and mblue240 for helping me with advice and parts on this build.
 
Hey! I thought I recognized this 244... I PM’d you a few days ago on Instagram about your seats. Looking good!

Is that a Craving Boost short shifter?
 
How long have you had the shifter installed and what is your opinion of it? Quality? $60 is a great deal.
 
Bump. How's it been? The cam, the compression, etc.. I never heard a review after you got the RSI cam in. :)
 
How do you like the shifter? Can you tell a difference?


I had the sam shifter from Sweden in my car and had to get rid of it because it was so noisy while driving from vibration. My shifter had steel split bushing between the aluminum and steel shafts. There needs to be rubber insulator between the two materials.
 
I had the sam shifter from Sweden in my car and had to get rid of it because it was so noisy while driving from vibration. My shifter had steel split bushing between the aluminum and steel shafts. There needs to be rubber insulator between the two materials.

Same, but with the Chinese shifter.
A delrin center section (reverse lockout) would be a nice upgrade on one of those.
 
Yes, the shifter is extremely tight and significantly shorter. Mind you there is something special about the stock M46/7 shift throws being about 4 feet long.

Only issue I have is the shift knob rattles at certain RPMs but the car is so loud I hardly notice.

How do you like the shifter? Can you tell a difference?
 
I'm off doing army stuff right now, but when I get home I'm re-gearing to 4.10, installing a Corbeau Forza seat via Kaplhenke V3 side mounts, and a Momo Mod 07 wheel.
 
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Here is a update on the 240!

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Not much new on the outside. Only change is some spacers for the rear while I'm running the drift spares.

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Big changes on the inside! I got a Corbeau bucket in along with a nice Momo wheel (with R-Sport horn button). It is unbelievable how much better this has made driving the car. Happy to be rid of the airbag from 1992 as well.

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350mm wheel with 72mm of dish.

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My buddy helped me weld up the Corbeau to the stock 240 seat rail. It still has full stock adjustment which is fantastic.

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Under the hood i got rid of the AC condenser. It allowed me to get rid of the old airbox, and just shove a pipe with cone filter right out to the grille.

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i decided it's time to mess around with the STS cam gear, so I had redblockpowered help with the tune. We ended up adding about 4* of advance which really helped smooth things out in the lower RPMs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxSjYI2YjbQ&feature=youtu.be

Video of some WOT. You can really notice when the cam comes on.

What I still have planned for the car is 4.10 gears. I got a ring and pinion off of ebay so when I'm feeling froggy I'll try my luck and put em' in.
 
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Yeehaw! What're you revving it out to?

I just noticed you have "poly pretty much everywhere". If you have it in your torque rods and lower trailing arm, that's reducing your axle's ability to articulate and will contribute to inside wheel spin when accelerating out of corners.
 
I think it's still at the stock redline, maybe a little more. This car goes pretty well. Lowering the car can also contribute to traction issues.
 
Yeehaw! What're you revving it out to?

I just noticed you have "poly pretty much everywhere". If you have it in your torque rods and lower trailing arm, that's reducing your axle's ability to articulate and will contribute to inside wheel spin when accelerating out of corners.

Stock redline, the tach is reading 6k. I've considered a higher redline but I don't think the cam has a significant amount more for it to be worth messing with.

The lower trailing arms are still rubber. I've been pretty satisfied with the suspension set up. I run standard KYB Gas shocks in the rear so that may offset the poly bushes stiffness. Even when I had insane rake the wheelspin wasn't too bad
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKh8yh36gd0&feature=youtu.be
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You do have me thinking it may be worth softening up the rear end now though.

Also, not sure I ever posted this but it does occasionally spit flames!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzhCNvMDlLU&feature=youtu.be
 
I think it's still at the stock redline, maybe a little more. This car goes pretty well. Lowering the car can also contribute to traction issues.

I'm considering gutting out the rest of the interior to get the car quicker. At one point I actually had this car pretty high and mighty, got plenty of dents in the gas tank taking it off road.

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Could it be a Volvo that still has it's dignity on Turbobricks?

I would like to go for a front coilover setup and mess with various rear springs. For now this build remains very budget in the spring department with some cut IPD springs. But I really do need to give the car a proper drive where i can feel out where the suspension is lacking, its been a while. I gotta get my Indy 500's back on first.
 
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