Brontes II - Would a good way to test the accumulator and check valve be to jumper the two pumps for at least 10-15 seconds before turning the key to start, this way I'll be building up fuel pressure and if the car still refuses to quickly start then I can overrule those two items since I then know pressure is there? I'll still check the two fuel pumps, the intank pump to confirm that it is working correctly and not wired in backwards. The main pump seems to be working fine since when the car does start there is no fuel issue. What task does the fuel accumulator actually preform? At first I thought the accumulator was an older version of the check valve. My fuel filter is up in the engine compartment, if after sitting overnight can I unscrew the filter up front to check if I have good pressure up there still?
I strongly second the advice that you need a K-Jet/CIS compatible fuel pressure tester and some good reference literature to properly troubleshoot this system. You really, really need them both. K-jet components can die slow deaths and it's not always as simple as "it works or it doesn't."
IF you did have a pressure tester, I would recommend attaching it at the fuel filter and then priming the system (either using a fuse panel jumper or just cranking the key). The basic idea is to see how much pressure is being produced, how quickly and smoothly it rises, how long it remains constant, and how smoothly it subsides. The check valve is responsible for holding the initial system pressure and the accumulator smooths the pulses. The target value ranges and significantly better explanations can be found in the Volvo Greenbooks or Bosch technical manuals. This would at least tell you which side of the fuel system to focus your efforts. (Assuming that it's just one problem.)
The check valve
could be failing and not holding pressure as it should. The accumulator
could be sticking due to varnish, etc. creating a pressure pocket, or it
could be the cold start valve, or a leaky injector, or an imbalanced fuel pressure regulator. It's almost impossible to say without more detailed data.
An appropriate test gauge isn't that expensive. It's definitely cheaper than throwing parts at the problem trying to fix it. Plus you're almost certain to need it again if you hang on to the car for any length of time. That said, if you do determine that there's a problem with the accumulator, the check valve, or the even main pump, then I'd recommend that you just go ahead replace the whole lot of them at once; as well as clean up any old wiring, connectors or tubing. It's not the most difficult job in the world, but it is a messy, under the car, pain-in-the ass kind of job. If possible, it's better to do it all and be done with it.