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My '78 242 L33 turbo build

I had the same concern! It is aluminum, I triple checked with magnets, the heads have the proper 799 casting marks also. I would be throwing a dam fit if it wasn't, I wouldn't be posting here, I'd be on a road trip to kick some ass haha.
 
Also, any ideas on how to handle the situation would be appreciated, different perspectives and all that. I am going to contact them and calmly explain that I did not get what I paid for, and that I can provide several emails and text messages to back up my claim, and ask how they propose to solve this issue. I would ask for the cost of Cometic gaskets to lower the compression for my turbo build, but the pistons currently in the engine are unacceptable. They are known to be crap from everything I have read.
 
The stock engine is still installed, running on MS, so thats not a problem, the L33 is on an engine stand still, but ya, it might be lawyer time. I am going to give them 1 chance to make it ok, IDK how that is even possible now since the wrong pistons were installed, even though I have emails, texts, and a youtube vid labeled "turbo ready",it need to go to a machine shop to ensure we get the right pistons, which means taking apart my freshly rebuilt motor. I will email them tomorrow and we will see if lawyers need to be involved. Hopefully they will realize its cheaper and easier to give me my $ back than to deal with the lawyers.
 
I was under the impression the L33 motors were gen 3 24x aluminum blocks with gen 4 rods and flat top pistons from the factory, which is why they cost so much. If you paid for a forged piston I see the problem but if it's just a concern of compression ratio I wouldn't worry about it. I think the l33's were like 9.9 vs the normal dished piston 5.3's being 9.5. As long as the ring gaps were opened up it shouldn't have a problem making tons of power. I would almost prefer the flat tops to make it a little nicer to drive out of boost.
 
55superbeetle said:
I was under the impression the L33 motors were gen 3 24x aluminum blocks with gen 4 rods and flat top pistons from the factory, which is why they cost so much. If you paid for a forged piston I see the problem but if it's just a concern of compression ratio I wouldn't worry about it. I think the l33's were like 9.9 vs the normal dished piston 5.3's being 9.5. As long as the ring gaps were opened up it shouldn't have a problem making tons of power. I would almost prefer the flat tops to make it a little nicer to drive out of boost.
Click to expand...

They almost look like lq9 pistons
 
The gauges have so many wires because they have data logger outputs as well as a high or low trigger. If you're doing all the logging/failsafe stuff in your ecu you probably won't use most of the wires.
 
It has 5.3 lettering on the block.

I'm sure the ring gaps were not opened up, but that is something I could check/do without a major hassle. Unfortunately I don't know what I paid for because they guy never answered my request for a parts list, never wrote it down anywhere, and apparently they can't find their receipts, probably because the receipts don't exist.

55superbeetle, that explains why I keep getting those two compression ratios when trying to determine the stock ratio, I have heard both numbers with no explanation of which is correct. Thanks! It does have Gen 4 rods, if what I read about identifying them from the shape of the end cap is correct. I feel a little better after reading the ring gap thing, it just seems 9.9 is a little high for boost, but I am far from an expert on that. I guess lower boost, bigger intercooler, haha.

I tried to look at a ton of pistons to determine what they are, no luck.
 
Ok thanks, I have 93 available everywhere right now. I guess you have a pretty tight tune? I just wanted to build something bulletproof that I can keep for a very long time, and this piston thing is upsetting. I haven't contacted them yet because I have been a bit preoccupied, hopefully an update on why tomorrow
 
Oh my tune is all over the place lol. Just be reasonable with timing and have ample fuel and you'll be fine. I've been hammering on my 6.0 for years with no issues
 
Haha, ok. It's looking like it will be N/A for a while anyway.

In some other news, I just bought this car, 1978. I'll do a proper showroom intro when it gets here, having it shipped. I couldn't drive it home because it's 3.5 hours from my house and the coolant comes out as fast as you can put it in. My driveway will be pretty colorful haha.

VgP3sLjl.jpg


xvEAKGUl.jpg
 
Thanks, it needs some love but it is shiny haha. I have to undo some minor hack jobs, like screws where there should be plastic fasteners, some iffy wiring, someone painted the valve cover yellow, etc. The paint job doesn't go into the engine bay or trunk, missing a drivers door panel. But it does have Konis, springs, VX cam, braces,etc, and its very rust free (that is a relative term in the NE) for this area, and it sounds very good. Officially arriving on Friday, so I will show it off then.
 
Thanks! I can't wait to get it here and sorted out.

L33 engine news: I talked to the company I purchased the engine from today. They were very cool about the whole thing and put me on with the owner of the company. He was very knowledgeable and we talked through what I want to do and how they can set the situation straight. Apparently the current configuration, using something like a GT45 or 68mm turbo, can handle about 10 PSI. He recommended a set of refinished 317 heads from the 6.0. He said that combo would be fine for over 20 PSI.
So the matter is settled, they are sending me a refurbished set of aluminum (I had a choice of that or cast) 317 heads and I am happy. They would have built me a different motor, but that seemed a bit extreme to me, plus a hassle to ship my original one.
I was impressed with the way they handled it.
 
Bump for a couple goodies, R Sport repop gauge cluster with adapter for early dash and Stack Pro oil temp, pressure, and coolant temp gauges.

lBt9AbIl.jpg


Also got an Autometer boost gauge, and AEM wideband, but the wideband is currently installed in my brother Harley. Who reads plugs anymore haha, use a wideband

Got my 317 heads also. The best part is I can keep my 799 heads, and have a higher compression ratio until it's turbo time. Been going to my friends shop and working on whatever is there to clear the path for my car. This included head studs on a Ford Triton V10 :-( that sucked, and run far away from those turds. Next one should be fun though, Buick Grand National needs some love.
 
2turbotoys said:
Thanks, it needs some love but it is shiny haha. I have to undo some minor hack jobs, like screws where there should be plastic fasteners, some iffy wiring, someone painted the valve cover yellow, etc. The paint job doesn't go into the engine bay or trunk, missing a drivers door panel. But it does have Konis, springs, VX cam, braces,etc, and its very rust free (that is a relative term in the NE) for this area, and it sounds very good. Officially arriving on Friday, so I will show it off then.
Click to expand...

It was a pnw car sold a couple years ago.
 
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