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Old 11-13-2021, 03:22 PM   #26
142 guy
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Connect your laptop up to the controller while you do your test and watch the dashboard while you do a no-fuel crank. If you are getting an RPM measurement and the dashboard is displaying the calculated fuel PW you know that MS2 appears to be working.

For a B20 E/F you would typically fix the cranking advance at 10 deg BTDC. If you have a timing light, hook it up to the cylinder #1 plug wire and check the timing while you crank the engine. It should come out at 10 BTDC. If its off slightly you can fine adjust the CAS angle to get it right on. If its way off, you need to review your set up in Tuner Studio or your positioning of the CAS in the block. Do this before powering up the fuel system. No point in injecting fuel into an engine where the timing is way off. If the timing is way off you could also induce a back fire which has potential for damage.
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Old 11-19-2021, 11:17 AM   #27
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Some updates: I went though everything, hooked up the VW coil pack, and cranked without fuel. I got some erratic spark, and then the coil pack got hot and died - oops!

The PW is being calculated but the tach is still jumping around from 0 to reasonable - both on the motor and by hand. I think I may try to convert the board to fuel only and run a distributor for the time being - especially since I'll need to get another coil pack from the junkyard before I try this again. My guess is one of the two things is true about my setup:

1. I screwed up the edits for either the tach circuit or cam circuit on the board. Perhaps using the IAT1A was a bad idea or... I made some other assumption that I oughta noughta.
2. The CAS I bought secondhand has some issue

Unless there is some other circuit I can build, I'll simplify the build for now and come back for the fuel spark control later. The fact that I can't read the "teeth" cleanly for even the tach signal is not a great sign

Thanks for the help you guys - appreciate it!
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Old 11-19-2021, 11:52 AM   #28
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I'd try replacing the CAS. One that I worked on years ago flaked out with really weird signals, but it had had a hard life by then (fire, flood, pestilence, etc.). I think 142 guy found a new & usable Hyundai CAS for cheap.

The ignition coil overheating in normally due to using the wrong edge for Spark Output, which causes the coil to charge for most of the engine cycle instead of just the ~3ms dwell setting.
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Old 11-20-2021, 06:41 PM   #29
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The CAS I purchased was for a 1993 ish 4 cyl Hyundai Sonata and it was less than $50 US brand new from Rock Auto in a genuine Auto7 / Hyundai box. Unfortunately, that ship appears to have sailed and you are now looking at more than $100 - $200.

The optical CAS is pretty dumb ass reliable. If you did that test I described in post #14 and you got 24 on - off indications on the tach signal for two turns of the crankshaft the CAS is likely functional. That said, the CAS does do some signal conditioning so flakey operation as described by bobxyz is within the realm of possibility. Unfortunately, you are not definitively going to catch that problem without an oscilloscope. If you install the CAS in a vice, power it up as per normal and spin it with an electric drill (a reasonable speed - 50 - 100 RPM, don't go crazy) and then use a test light (a LED is best because its faster responding) you may be able to see whether the signal is flaking out on you at higher RPMs.

As bobxyz noted, your cooked coil is most like due to incorrect settings on the spark output.

Did you do that test I described in post #24 where you measure the tach and cam signals at the 40 pin socket on the MS main board? If you did that test and confirmed that the cam and tach signals are present at the 40 pin socket you can stop fretting about whether you screwed up the cam and tach input circuits.
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Old 11-24-2021, 03:39 AM   #30
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Thank you for your help!

I tested the CAS with an LED (both the tach wheel and the cam wheel) and got 24 tach flashes and 1 cam flash. Perfect, it's fine. Next, I pulled off the daughter board and f'd around figuring out which pin was which. I confirmed (thank you 142 guy) that I have voltage changes on pins 14 and 17 of the daugherboard socket in line with the LED flashes for cam and tach.


Then I checked very connection I made, and reset the pots again, and then proceeded to follow many rabbit holes. NOTE remove the handy LED before you do your voltage testing.

After I had the LED out of the way again, I re-read all of the thread suggestions. I confirmed that:
1. The MS was getting a reasonable tach input (I was getting 4.97v or .01v between J1-2 and ground, as I slowly turned the CAS).
2. The MS was getting a reasonable cam input (I was getting 3.58v or .19v between JP1-3 and ground, in keeping with the cam inner wheel).
Finally, feeling OK about my life choices, and yet ready for failure, I chucked an old oil pump drive gear in my drill and:


My MS ignition settings were exactly as described bobxyz (thanks man!). I feel like... this is working? Next, I popped the fuse back into my ignition circuit and I have consistent spark. I guess my coil pack wasn't cooked after all, I just wasn't prepared for how hot that heat sink gets!? Now, with the drill, I am getting reasonable RPM, no sync drops when at a reasonable speed, and the PW is steady. Next I can reinstall the CAS in the motor, and add in my fuel pump circuit and perhaps get some fire out of her!

Thanks guys - this is frustrating/frustrating/frustrating/freaking awesome and worth the journey.
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Old 11-24-2021, 12:16 PM   #31
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Perhaps it would be good to set aside some time to review the quality of your field wiring. Poor electrical connections along with bad grounding arrangements are probably a significant source of un reliable or erratic operation on MS retrofits. You don't want whatever was causing your cam / tach signal problems to all of a sudden re appear when you get five blocks from home on your first test drive.
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Old 11-24-2021, 12:19 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 142 guy View Post
Perhaps it would be good to set aside some time to review the quality of your field wiring. Poor electrical connections along with bad grounding arrangements are probably a significant source of un reliable or erratic operation on MS retrofits. You don't want whatever was causing your cam / tach signal problems to all of a sudden re appear when you get five blocks from home on your first test drive.
Strongly agree. It is set up on the stand, so when I take everything down to document I'll check everything against the spec before I build the harness for the car. Would suck to get it in the car and then be chasing my tail again.
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Old 11-24-2021, 03:14 PM   #33
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I have 60-2 trigger pattern on B30. For cam sync Signal I found this (for VW but seems to fit to Volvo OHV)
https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/7073.htm
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