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Old 09-17-2022, 09:24 PM   #51
TheMenaceSD
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Would it be able to remove the pvc box and the shaft from there and reinstall or do I need to pull the pan?
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Old 09-17-2022, 09:34 PM   #52
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The oil pan has to come off in order to change the oil pump. Is it not pumping any oil?
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Old 09-17-2022, 10:10 PM   #53
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I removed my oil filter and if I spin the shaft oil comes out.
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Old 09-17-2022, 10:48 PM   #54
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Put on a new oil filter and try again. There may have been something funky with that oil filter.
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Old 09-17-2022, 11:38 PM   #55
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Could my oil relocation and sandwich plate effect it or possibly just the filter. I'm gonna blow air in my spare head to see where the oil passages are. It might be the head I grabbed from the yard had the passages clogged since I tossed it on and it never went to a machine shop.
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Old 09-18-2022, 01:04 AM   #56
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Maybe you put the head gasket on the wrong way and blocked the oil passage to the head.
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Old 09-18-2022, 01:23 PM   #57
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If I blow air into my spare 530 head at each oil passage for the cam they all come out the same hole which is for the head bolt. Is that correct or are there other passages that I am missing. Just want to know what I'm looking for before I take the head off.
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Old 09-18-2022, 01:45 PM   #58
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seems like there is a lot of back story here...

so you replaced the head and then ?... then tried to start it but it never started ? ...

but you cranked it for sometime and that was enough to score that cap?

and shear off the pin on the gear ? and destroy the washer ?

Did you mix and match the cam and / or gears from the other head?
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Old 09-18-2022, 01:57 PM   #59
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Hopefully this can answer some questions

so you replaced the head and then ?... then tried to start it but it never started ? Got the car running and with the old head. Drove it home and went to do the +T swap and the exhaust stud on the back cam out with the helicoil from the previous owner. Instead of sending the head to the shop to get it fixed I pulled a head from the JY since I couldn't afford the machine shop. I finished the +T swap with the JY head and it was running. The starter went out or it could have been the cam locking up as I attempted to crank it multiple times to get it to start. Once I swapped out the starter it wouldn't start and then I cranked it with a second set of eyes and noticed that the cam wasn't spinning.

but you cranked it for sometime and that was enough to score that cap?

and shear off the pin on the gear ? and destroy the washer ? The pin on the cam sheared off and the washer spilt open. It did a little bit of damage to the back of the cam gear.

Did you mix and match the cam and / or gears from the other head? I swapped a T cam from the JY with the M cam that came in the original 530 head.

Seems probably the best option is to pull the whole thing and take the head into the machine shop along with the block since it has 160k on the clock or maybe more.
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Old 09-18-2022, 02:43 PM   #60
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ok wow and a +t lots going on... probably don't need to send anything to a machine shop.
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Old 09-18-2022, 04:48 PM   #61
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I took the head off to check and see if the head gasket was on correctly. I have attached photos of the block and the underside of the head. When I spin the intermediate shaft the shaft at the oil pump also spins so I'm thinking that it might not be aligned correctly as no oil flows to the block threw any passages.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Thoughts
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Old 09-18-2022, 04:49 PM   #62
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When the engine was running last, did the oil pressure light in the dashboard go out? And does it turn on now before you crank the engine?

Getting oil out of the filter hole without filter, but not seeing oil puddle in the cam valleys with the filter on, might be due to a bad oil pump transfer pipe seal. (Note: you really need a power tool to spin the aux shaft fast enough to build pressure and pump oil to the cam, cranking it by hand won't work.)
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Last edited by bobxyz; 09-18-2022 at 08:26 PM.. Reason: crank valleys should have been cam valleys
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Old 09-18-2022, 05:24 PM   #63
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The oil pressure light would go out on the dashboard. I was spinning the aux shaft with my impact quick enough to spit out oil. I put brand new seals on the oil pump transfer pipe. Probably need to check the oil pump next huh.
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Old 09-18-2022, 05:54 PM   #64
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You could try putting your thumb over the oil filter hole and see if it builds pressure when spinning. From the filter, the oil passage runs up the side of the block and then (IIRC) joins one of the head bolt holes through the teardrop shaped relief.

If you do need to pull the engine (ugh), dry fit the oil pump transfer tube without the seals and use a sharpie to mark how far in it can go. I think that it's possible to be fooled and have the tube only partially seated, which allows the seals to pop out sooner or later.
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Old 09-18-2022, 06:31 PM   #65
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I think I may have clogged the threads by using anti-seize on the threads instead of oil. Could that be part of the issue? I will still drop the pan and take a look at the oil pump.
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Old 09-18-2022, 08:36 PM   #66
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I haven't looked carefully, but I'd guess that the oil flow enters the bolt hole above the block threads (via the teardrop) and splits off into head passages before being blocked by the head washer and nut. I can't imagine that there would be any flow through the threaded region, meaning anti-seize wouldn't make any difference.

Did you had the engine out for the +T? If so, what did you do while it was out?

If there's low or no oil pressure, I'd guess a pump tube seal popped out. If there's good pressure, I'd guess that something was plugging the oil feed to the #2 cam journal in the replacement junkyard head. Either way, it looks like the #2 may have seized, causing the teeth on the timing belt to be sheared off, causing the no start.
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Old 09-18-2022, 10:41 PM   #67
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I'd repeat your oil flow test with your oil filter "relocation" setup and see if oil is coming out the top of the block
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Old 09-18-2022, 10:44 PM   #68
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The engine was not removed for the +T. Since the head is off I'm gonna blow out the passages and see if anything comes out. Since the car is still NOP I can really dig into it and make it right from the beginning.
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Old 09-18-2022, 10:55 PM   #69
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The washers are used for better timing belt alignment.
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Old 09-18-2022, 10:58 PM   #70
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Be careful using a power tool to turn aux shaft ., the bolt can break. Done that.
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Old 09-18-2022, 11:43 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMenaceSD View Post
When I spin the intermediate shaft the shaft at the oil pump also spins so I'm thinking that it might not be aligned correctly as no oil flows to the block threw any passages.

Thoughts
So with the head off, NOTHING comes out of the block when you spin the aux gear? That isn't right.

I think the oil comes out from that "teardrop" in the block as the pressurized oil feed. Behind the second headbolt on the exhaust side, but I don't see the corresponding port on the cylinder head. I gotta go look at my spare head to figure it out...
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Old 09-18-2022, 11:59 PM   #72
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That is correct. I could have the aux shaft not aligned with the oil pump, but if that was the case would it pump oil through the filter?
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Old 09-19-2022, 12:11 AM   #73
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What is your oil filter "relocation" setup? I can't see in the pics.

I believe the oil passage just goes straight up from the oil filter thru ONE passage to the head. You could also pull the oil pressure switch and see if oil comes out there. Or has that also been modfied?

I am confused. Your oil pump is working if oil sprayed on your fender with the oil filter off. You just gotta figure out what is preventing it from coming out the top the block.
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Old 09-19-2022, 12:26 AM   #74
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I added an oil filter relocation kit to my passenger fender.

https://i.postimg.cc/TYSwNgfm/IMG-20...95511-120.webp

https://i.postimg.cc/fR9bGyRP/IMG-20...95511-043.webp
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Old 09-19-2022, 08:44 AM   #75
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That oil filter relocation kit might be giving problems if it has a stuck anti-drainback valve, or is plumbed backwards (in-in out-out vs in-out in-out). If it still fits, I'd try installing the filter in the original location and give it a spin.
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