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Hard to stop after new oe pads

2 old for this

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2018
Replaced the front brake pads on my 262 and now it almost will not stop. All was good until the new Volvo pads. First thought was that they needed some use. The 262 has 1992 anti lock brakes that worked as designed. Anyone else had this happen?
 
install new pads on rotors that have not been resurfaced?

I've done it for years...without an issue.


OP: Has your brake booster failed? Is brake light bulb working? Jack up right or left front wheel, and rotate tire while someone presses down on brake pedal.
 
I've done it for years...without an issue.


OP: Has your brake booster failed? Is brake light bulb working? Jack up right or left front wheel, and rotate tire while someone presses down on brake pedal.

Resurfacing or replacement is HIGHLY recommended in most cases. I learned my lesson when I did this to my 240 the first time. Didn't have the money to do it right. It warped my rotors. Apparently this is usually because the mating of new pads to unsurfaced rotors can cause extreme heat. At least, that is what my automotive professor told me.
 
Resurfacing or replacement is HIGHLY recommended...is what my automotive professor told me.

I'm not aggressive with brake usage...I don't smoke them when coming to a red light or stop sign...and I attempt to pay attention so I don't have to smoke them.

Warped rotor can also be due to uneven torquing on lug nuts.

Glazed pads/shoes will decrease breaking performance.

Many years ago, they had "brake specials" where they slapped a new set of pads/shoes on vehicles.
=============

2manyturbos cite:

PRO TIP:
It's important to avoid coming to a complete stop during the hard-braking stage as it's possible to melt brake pads against hot rotors. Of course, should a deer, pedestrian, or Sasquatch run onto the road, feel free to mash the brake pedal. Safety first!
 
84B23F, I'm not attacking you or your driving habits, just "parroting" information.

I honestly believe that my rotors all had some serious miles on them. They all have a little "lip" on the edge. That's probably what killed them is that they were too thin in the first place. Live and learn!

Is your pedal mushy at all? Any abnormal give?
 

Replacing brake calipers and rotors is the way to do it right. If brake caliper's piston is sticking, it will smoke the pad, and can cause rotor warpage.

I drive rural miles, with sand/dirt getting into pads/rotors; sand/dirt will etch out rotors' surfaces. On Semi-Trucks, you can see where sand/dirt had done a fine job of resurfacing the drums.

Those who drive in big cities tend to overbrake, which cooks the pads/rotors.

If a person assumes they have no brakes, they "plan" their stops via using the engine for slowing down mostly, and then apply light brake pressure; but in big cities, those road ragers will become upset

>Is your pedal mushy at all?

Once in a blue moon I'll brake hard for a deer...brakes seem to work OK
 
I've seen this exact thing happen when the installer forgets to degrease the rotor surface (shipping grease to keep rotor from rusting in storage). But if you've been in the auto service business for 60 years, you probably already know this is required.
Dave
 
I'm not aggressive with brake usage...I don't smoke them when coming to a red light or stop sign...and I attempt to pay attention so I don't have to smoke them.

Warped rotor can also be due to uneven torquing on lug nuts.

Glazed pads/shoes will decrease breaking performance.

Many years ago, they had "brake specials" where they slapped a new set of pads/shoes on vehicles.
=============

2manyturbos cite:

PRO TIP:
It's important to avoid coming to a complete stop during the hard-braking stage as it's possible to melt brake pads against hot rotors. Of course, should a deer, pedestrian, or Sasquatch run onto the road, feel free to mash the brake pedal. Safety first!


Your lack of experience is showing. A friend of mine wrecked his Corvette on a Hill Climb, first run 3 years ago because he skipped the bedding process. He's no amateur. He just didn't realize how important that step is to having excellent braking right from the start. It was an expensive mistake. A month ago I made sure to properly bed my new track pads before taking my Mustang GT to an event. Even with freshly machined rotors the first few stops were unimpressive. By the time I did the 10 60-10 and 10 80-10 mph mph rapid deceleration "stops" recommended by the manufacturer the car braked like it hit a brick wall. It is an important step with ceramic brake pads. Just throwing on a set of pads works, eventually. Hopefully, you don't rear end somebody before the brakes start working like they should. The first time I really became aware how important this step is happened when I took a 940 wagon out for a test drive after installing a set of Posi-Quiet ceramic pads on freshly machined rotors. The first couple of stops really didn't happen. The level of braking was almost non-existent/scary. I thought something must be wrong with the installation. I took it back to my shop and checked the brakes visually. Nothing out of place. I took it back out on the road and followed the Posi-Quiet recommended bedding process and by the time I got back to the shop the 940 would plant my face on the windshield braking. Nice and straight, no fade.

Perhaps, actually reading what the OP posted might help. "All was good until the new Volvo pads."
 
Your lack of experience is showing.

I noted above that to do it right requires all related parts to be replaced...cause the caliper's piston can screw your pooch.

Do read the first paragraph of your cite - "For most folks, the gradual wearing-in of your brake pads and rotors will be performed through natural driving, but if you want your pads to perform great right out of the gate, and minimize potential issues, doing a procedure known as ?bedding in? is extremely helpful. "
 
I noted above that to do it right requires all related parts to be replaced...cause the caliper's piston can screw your pooch.

Do read the first paragraph of your cite - "For most folks, the gradual wearing-in of your brake pads and rotors will be performed through natural driving, but if you want your pads to perform great right out of the gate, and minimize potential issues, doing a procedure known as “bedding in” is extremely helpful. "


I already stated that above. Eventually, they will work properly. With some racing pads, not so. Failure to properly break them in can lead to almost no brakes.

Read what the pad manufacturer has to say about installing new pads.

https://centricparts.com/getmedia/f...Whitepaper_C4-Bed-In-Performance-8-2018_1.pdf

https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=85
 
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Did you put the friction side towards the discs?
Spot on !! Is that the cause of all grinding? No I did not have a senior moment. But being in the automotive service business for over 60 years I have seen worse.

You've seen worse than installing the metal side toward the discs? Do tell!

Am ready for story time. :drama: Sometimes these are the best teachings...
 
I already stated that above. Eventually, they will work properly.

I drive on dusty country roads, which means the dust and sand ends up on drums/rotors; so when someone speaks of "bedding," I know dust/sand will "eat" pad "coating" transferred to rotor/drum.

Keep this in mind - "The bedding procedure removes dirt and debris from the rotor surface and pad surface and transfers a thin layer of the brake pad...In order to get the most out of your brakes"


If a pad manufacture suggests bedding, then follow their instructions; but, I recently bought a set of Volvo pads, and braking is not an issue with them. I may not have 100% braking efficiency, but I suspect after "bedding," brake efficiency decreases with time...this bedding is part commercial hype for increased sales revenue and part truth for a given set of pads.


OP's issue may be burned pads, due to stuck piston or improper break-in
 
I have always been a break the glaze with 80 grit, then 10-0, 20-0, 30-0, 40-0, 50-0, 40-0, 30-0, 20-0, 10-0 hard stops then a cooling cruise kinda guy. If you don't smell brakes by the time you're done you're doing it wrong. You can feel them start to grip as you do it.

On brake rotor "warping", in my experience, it is usually more an uneven deposit of pad material on the rotor causing pulsation rather than an actual "warpage," so to speak. Usually caused by infrequent operation and sitting in the driveway.
 
I drive on dusty country roads, which means the dust and sand ends up on drums/rotors; so when someone speaks of "bedding," I know dust/sand will "eat" pad "coating" transferred to rotor/drum.

Keep this in mind - "The bedding procedure removes dirt and debris from the rotor surface and pad surface and transfers a thin layer of the brake pad...In order to get the most out of your brakes"


If a pad manufacture suggests bedding, then follow their instructions; but, I recently bought a set of Volvo pads, and braking is not an issue with them. I may not have 100% braking efficiency, but I suspect after "bedding," brake efficiency decreases with time...this bedding is part commercial hype for increased sales revenue and part truth for a given set of pads.


OP's issue may be burned pads, due to stuck piston or improper break-in

Just quit with the miss information trying to cover up your lack of understanding. With the Posi-Quiet pads the bedding process is essential. The stopping distance is nearly double what you would expect until the proceedure is completed. I just installed a set on my F250 a week ago. Did you even read their White Paper on the topic that I linked?

I really don?t care that you put in a set of stock pads and blah, blah, blah, with the sand and dust. That?s absolute bull****. The pads actually last longer when properly broken in. It isn?t about a manufacturer wanting you to wear them out so they can sell you more. It?s about them wanting you to have excellent brakes so that you come back and buy their product again and again.
 
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