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Old 06-01-2021, 03:09 PM   #26
2manyturbos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
Rotors don't warp.
Yes, they do. Most of the time people incorrectly assume they are warped when in reality they have a big rust stain or pad build up on them causing the pulsing sensation.
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Old 06-01-2021, 03:09 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by OldCarNewTricks View Post
The surface can become uneven, which is what I'm referring to in this case.
Thickness variation and/or lateral runout are causes of vibration.
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Old 06-01-2021, 03:12 PM   #28
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My F150's front brakes have uncomfortable amounts of pulsation, apparently from being warped. ZVOLV, I understand that the actual rotor isn't warped, but from what I've learned, it's heat that can change the metal's hardness in some spots which in turn causes uneven wear. My automotive teachers told me that they've seen this in Ford trucks quite a bit. What gives?

2manyturbos, what rotors do you use for the F250?
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Old 06-01-2021, 03:17 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
Thickness variation and/or lateral runout are causes of vibration.
Lateral runout is warping of the rotor. I see it fairly often with 7–9 series brake rotors. Almost never with 2 series rotors.

The Centric brand rotors are decent quality. People even use them on their track Mustangs running 160 miles an hour. That is the brand I put on my Ford F250. I think they were only $52 each new.

The whitepaper I posted here is from Stoptech. The same company that makes centric brake parts. They actually have a racing brake division which I only realized when I looked up the bedding procedure for those brake pads that I installed.
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Old 06-01-2021, 05:32 PM   #30
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Cryo hardened rotors are a great addition to helping your rotors last a long time.
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Old 06-01-2021, 05:54 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
Lateral runout is warping of the rotor. I see it fairly often with 7–9 series brake rotors. Almost never with 2 series rotors.

The Centric brand rotors are decent quality. People even use them on their track Mustangs running 160 miles an hour. That is the brand I put on my Ford F250. I think they were only $52 each new.

The whitepaper I posted here is from Stoptech. The same company that makes centric brake parts. They actually have a racing brake division which I only realized when I looked up the bedding procedure for those brake pads that I installed.
I've used Centric brand parts before, and they seemed to be of good quality. My F150 has rotor-hubs. Still only $60, and a good opportunity to replace bearings and seals.
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Old 06-01-2021, 08:25 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by OldCarNewTricks View Post
Roy is correct on this
Being anal, somewhere around 40k miles, many rotors should be replaced...this makes mechanics very happy to hear, and to repeat to their customers.

One lawyer notes, "The good news is that brake failure is rarely the cause of a car accident."

Lawyer is not talking about OEM failures (Ford F-150 pickup truck, Nissan, Harley-Davidson , etc)

"High performance" brakes is a side topic, not related to typical OEM brakes. Roy accepted this comment below, which I do too.

"For most folks, the gradual wearing-in of your brake pads and rotors will be performed through natural driving, but if you want your pads to perform great right out of the gate, and minimize potential issues, doing a procedure known as “bedding in” is extremely helpful. "

Key Words - "want your pads to perform great right out of the gate"

Quote:
My rotors warped because I tried bedding brake pads on old, rusty rotors that are far out of spec. Thinner material warps more easily.
GM Creates Recipe for Brakes That Shine - High-tech rotors look better, last longer and could save consumers hundreds of dollars
2011-11-30
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Old 06-01-2021, 08:37 PM   #33
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Thickness variation can be from brake pad material on the rotor.
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Old 06-01-2021, 08:52 PM   #34
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You still haven’t read the whitepaper have you? That’s obvious in your comments. All kinds of OEM applications run high-performance brakes. BMWs, Porsches, Mustang GTs, Challenger RT’s run Brembo brakes with high-performance pads right from the factory. You’re living 35 years ago in your technology.

Posi-Quiet pads are not racing pads. They are over the counter brake pads that AutoZone and practically every other auto parts store on the planet sells. They require a bedding in procedure. Otherwise the braking is dismal for quite awhile and you could actually ruin the brake pads by not following their installation procedure.

Last edited by 2manyturbos; 06-01-2021 at 09:01 PM..
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Old 06-01-2021, 09:23 PM   #35
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Back in 1991 I bought all new brakes F/R from Volvo, front vented rotors, stock rear rotors, pads and calipers. Cross drilled the rotors [120 holes per rotor], this May I put in new rear pads after 250K miles, the front are about 1/2 worn. Are the Volvo parts that good?
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Old 06-01-2021, 11:56 PM   #36
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You are just easy on your brakes. My 940 brakes last forever. In everyday driving I’m easy on brakes. Same with the throttle.
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Old 06-02-2021, 02:21 AM   #37
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Back in 1991 I bought all new brakes F/R from Volvo, front vented rotors, stock rear rotors, pads and calipers. Cross drilled the rotors [120 holes per rotor], this May I put in new rear pads after 250K miles, the front are about 1/2 worn. Are the Volvo parts that good?
Did the brakes on my wife's Mazda 6 wagon last year (pads and rotors front and back)

190k km on the original brakes.
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Old 06-02-2021, 07:56 AM   #38
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The EBC yellow stuff pads i just put on had a break-in coating on them.
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Old 06-02-2021, 11:12 AM   #39
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I don't give a rat's ass what was done years ago. You can't even buy the types of brake pads that you are describing anymore.



In the olden days when brake pads has asbestos and Volvo rotors were harder cast iron, the brake rotors would last 200K + miles, and several sets of pads.

Now the basic off the shelf choices are dusty organic or metallic that chew up the rotors.
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
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Old 06-02-2021, 11:07 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
Otherwise the braking is dismal.
"Reduced stopping is one of the misunderstood and misused claims in the brake pad business. Stopping distance claims are almost never followed up by “compared to what?”

One thing for sure, once ABS is active, it don't make a hoot which brake pads are being used.

Good Read - Brake Pad Failure Mode Field Study.....a lack of regulations or industry-standard practices can directly lead to the above-mentioned failure modes.

There's the problem..."a lack of regulations or industry-standard practices," so the mice are busy with their BS.

PS: A fully loaded semi-truck requires some 300 feet to stop at 55mph on dry payment, whereas typical cars around some 120 feet (not counting Perception/Reaction Distance).

Perception/Reaction is most important...pay attention, and react sooner.
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Old 06-11-2021, 02:34 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post


In the olden days when brake pads has asbestos and Volvo rotors were harder cast iron, the brake rotors would last 200K + miles, and several sets of pads.

Now the basic off the shelf choices are dusty organic or metallic that chew up the rotors.
Hmm, ..how true. Also found this article for TB reading:

https://www.autozone.com/diy/brakes/bedding-brakes

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